Newbie needs help with old Ford 4000

[Dragonlord8096]

I hope someone can help me. I recently got my hands on an old Ford 4000. I'm not sure if it's a 62 or 63. The Model number is 41202. Serial # 9034. It's a 5 speed, 4 cylinder gas. She was in pretty rough shape when I got her, but she runs like a top. I'm in the process of installing new gauges (others were shot). I've got the temp gauge connected to the head where the old gaube was threaded in, but the oil pressure gauge had nothing connected to it, so I couldn't trace the line to where it threads in. I have looked all over the block and head and can't find where it would thread in. I have an owners manual and IT manual. Neither one helps. Can anyone tell me where the line for the oil pressure gauge threads in? Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

it goes in BEHIND the hydrauli pum, at the rightrear of the block,

look ahead of your right foot, ther eis hte hyd pump. has the tach cable going to the snout.. now, aft of that a few inches. ie.. start looking a tthe pump , the end towards the front of the tractor.

there will be a lil fititng in the block between the pump and block. probably has some capilary tube sticking out of it pinched off. cap is 1/8" steel line if original.

now.

you 99% of the time have to remove the pump to work ont he fittings.

if you are lucky however, and there is a few inches of line left, and the end s not mangled carefully cut it with a tubing cutter, use a scotch brite pad to clean the metal tube to shiney.. don't bend or kink or break it.. now use a 1/8 to 1/8 brass compression union. if the metal is real pitted, here's a trick, mix some jbweld 4 minute epoxy, and use a qtip and coat the end of the tube, then slide the ferrule on, dab a lil more on the ferrule and behind it.. work quick.. now go ahead and torquw down the compression nut to lock the ferrule onto the tube and into the union.. let that set while you unroll some 1/8" cap line.. I prefer copper, and bend it carefully to fit from dash to the new union, leaving some slack, coiled gently .. union it up and connect the gauge very loosely.

crank engine over till oil drips at the gauge, then torque correctly.

the bleeding is not necescarry but I like to do it.

if you have especially small or delicate or nimble hands and tools, you can work on it with the pump in place, even if the tube is pinched off at the fitting.

sometimes some fool has simply put a PLUG in.., forcing you to mess with it..

soundguy

 

[LD1]

Serial # puts her at a 1962 model. 1963 started with 11949

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. she's an early one..

 

[Dragonlord8096]

Thanks for the info. I looked all around the hyd pump. All I found was a smooth bored hole under it and another behind the coil. Could someone have stripped it out and put a plug in? It looks like a tiny brass freeze plug. I've tried to post a pic (may have to wait till daylight).

 

[Soundguy]

if you are looking by the ignition coil you are looking towards the WRONG end of the engine... the lil brass plug should be there and is normal

the hyd pump is back just in front of your feet... and the plug is nestled at the point where the pump bolts to the block

pic is so close.. can't really tell what it is we are looking at

 

[Soundguy]

here's a pic of my semi- dismantled 2000.. smae basic machine

 

[Dragonlord8096]

The pic is of the hole directly beneath the hyd pump. I shoved my head in there a little deeper and I think I see where it is (hard to tell with the pump in the way). You're picture helped alot. Thank you. I never would have found it without your help. It looks like I will have to remove the pump to get to it.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

1962 based on one we got new was the last of the red/gray vs. blue 4000 line leading up to the 3 cylinder 4000 series.

Many of the 800 seriers were repainted blue and labelled 4000 so they looked like the newer 4000's of 63/64 that were still the same tractor as the 800 series.

The demise of the small family farm was in full swing and these 40+ HP Fords were soon replaced with four row+ capacity tractors.

The 5 speed was my favorite because of the fast shifting from R-3rd and 3rd-R. Many had a true two stage double clutch (two pin holes on the lever where the clutch rod could connect.

These are strong tractors that required little upkeep and they did produce some diesel engines as well. Brake jobs are very simple. There was some cracking of gas tanks and radiators but many have been reinforced. Ours would see a lot of 80 hour weeks each year when now they may not see that many in a year.

 

[Soundguy]

the fact that he posted the following:

1962 based on one we got new was the last of the red/gray vs. blue 4000 line leading up to the 3 cylinder 4000 series.

Many of the 800 seriers were repainted blue and labelled 4000 so they looked like the newer 4000's of 63/64 that were still the same tractor as the 800 series

The Model number is 41202. Serial # 9034


means it is a 000 4 cyl series and not a repainted 01


soundguy