Glutton for punishment Bringing 8n back

[Soundguy]

imho.. #1 is 'normal'

#2 is BADLY worn rings AND perhaps a bad head gasket

#3 is valves or head gasket

#4 is valves or head gasket..


that's my prognostication...

soundguy

 

[skylarkguy]

Here is an update. While talking with the owner he thought that the compression reading weren't correct. So I kept messing with it. After flooding the carb while trying to get gas in it (stuck float or something). I bought a carb kit and rebuilt the little thing. Bolted it on with bench settings for idle screws, filled the bowl and cranked her around. A dab of starting fluid, and....SHE STARTED TO RUN! ran good, too. the water pump is shot so didn't run it for long but now I know I can sink money into cleaning up the cooling system etc. Nice ending to a day.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well just finished the compression tests...Here are the results

CYL Dry Wet
1 90 100
2 40 60
3 25 30
4 60 65

The lack of balance between them is a bit worrisome, especially between cylinders 1 and 3.

Things I know it needs are a new water pump, which is leaking at the bearing, and for sure the fluids and filters need changing.

Still to work out are stronger ignition and the status of the carb...

So given the compression status, should I try to get it gimping along on what amounts to 3ish cylinders, or tell him it's a lost cause...

Those compression readings do seem a bit problematic. It could be anything from stuck rings to bad valves or a blown headgasket. If the compression readings don't improve after running it a while, I'd try removing the head to give it a valve job while soaking the cylinders in kerosene to help loosen any gunk that may have accumulated on the pistons and rings. If that doesnt work, it may need an engine overhaul.

If you do remove the head to give it a valve job, the following videos may be helpful. It's really simple.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reAuAbazfOc[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNL-GbGhsug[/ame]

 

[skylarkguy]

Excellent, thanks for the video links. I think I will run it a bit to see what happens. Does anyone have the procedure to set the carb?

 

[MasseyWV]

Excellent, thanks for the video links. I think I will run it a bit to see what happens. Does anyone have the procedure to set the carb?

The videos weren't specific to the 8N but the basic procedures are the largely the same for most engines.

The following links should be helpful for adjusting the carburetor.

Ford 8N Tractor Carb Adjustments

Yesterday's Tractors - Step by Step Carburetor Overhaul - 1952 Ford 8N

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/129208-ford-8n-carb-problem.html

 

[jonyyuma]

Here is an update. While talking with the owner he thought that the compression reading weren't correct. So I kept messing with it. After flooding the carb while trying to get gas in it (stuck float or something). I bought a carb kit and rebuilt the little thing. Bolted it on with bench settings for idle screws, filled the bowl and cranked her around. A dab of starting fluid, and....SHE STARTED TO RUN! ran good, too. the water pump is shot so didn't run it for long but now I know I can sink money into cleaning up the cooling system etc. Nice ending to a day.

Have you tryed any light cleaning oil or marvel mystery oil on top of pistons for a couple days soak..just to free up the rings? Sure there are plenty of other things to be wrong, but most cost money and time...Still those cylinders might be in bad shape...My 52 has steel replacement sleeves..

 

[Soundguy]

My 52 has steel replacement sleeves..

you had custom steel sleeves made? the sleeves for a 52 would be the .090 cast iron ones. they early N used the .040 ( tin can ) steel sleeves?

custom bore and sleeve job?

just curious....was the block damaged or?


soundguy

 

[skylarkguy]

Here is the update...got it running. New water pump, some oil lines to plumb the filter. new oil, and filter. New ignition key switch. It starts good, runs good. The next problem. Clutch is stuck.....

I can put it in any gear if it is shut off, but if it is running and I try to shift it, it grinds. The clutch seems to be stuck to the fly wheel. Putting it in 4th with the motor off and rolling it forward manually makes the engine turn. Even while standing on the clutch petal. So anybody have any good tricks to crack the clutch free from the flywheel...without splitting the tractor?

 

[Soundguy]

put in 4th gear, lock brakes, block clutch. if you have a mower, hang it on the 3pt and hookup pto and have 3pt lever lifted to activate hyds, and shift pto to engaged.

for the heck of it.. let it stay with clutch blocke dlike this a day or two.. sometimes they let go by themselves

if not:

leave gas off

set in seat.

use a screwdriver to manual short base of safety starter switch to trans cover to bump tractor starter over. just a bump. keep bumping it.. this almost always breaks them free.

if not, pull starter, and see about hosing down the clutch with a lil penetrant,a nd see if you can stick a long handled screydriver int here for a lil bang and pry job.. then retry bumping the starter.

if that don't do it after a few days of trying.. ya might have to split it.

i've not had to split one yet ( for a stuck clutch anyway )

 

[jonyyuma]

you had custom steel sleeves made? the sleeves for a 52 would be the .090 cast iron ones. they early N used the .040 ( tin can ) steel sleeves?

custom bore and sleeve job?

just curious....was the block damaged or?


soundguy

Okay, My Typo, my motor is earlier than that tractor..it was a basket case when i bought it...cannot remember the ser.number off hand...Sure did not look to be cast iron, Pushed it back down and reassembled?