wireing on that tractor amount to about 10' or wire and a handfull of connectors.
here's what you need.. you can wire this point to pint and not waste money on a harness.
from genny armature to arm/gen tab on vreg
from genny field to field tab on vreg
ground post on genny to ground tab or under metal mount point so genny, vreg and chssis are all common.
vreg bat tab to one side of 2 post ammeter.
other side of 2 post ammeter to hot side of start solenoid.
start solenoid hot side fed by battery cable.. other side of solenoid to starter.
depending on what solenoid you have, and if it's oem and if using the thrumb switch, you could have any of 3 different solenoids... commonly you will use the thumb switch with a small wire to the small post on the solenoid.
now, add a wire from the side of the 2 post ammeter where the bat tab from the vreg hits.. this wire goes to one side of the key switch.. other side of the key switch goes to one side of the primary of the coilother primary side goes to the side of the distribuitor at the insulated bushing.
that's all you need to make her start and charge and run.
if you add lamps, add another wire to the same side of the ammeter where the key and bat tab are hooked. run that to a lamp switch that is fused..from there run a wire forward to feed the headlamps, and a wire rear for a tail lamp if you use one / have a 2/3 position switch.
14awg wire will be sufficient for all this, except: the wire from armature to vreg, and from vreg bat tab to ammeter should be 2 strands of aw14 or do with a single of 8.
at the lamps, i reccomend running a ground wire from the grounding / mounting base of the lamp to a good clean spot on the chassis, or if nothing else, back to a conenctor added at the bat cable cable using a ring terminal on a terminal bolt..
if ammeter reads backwards.. swap wires side to side.
remember this was 6v positive ground using a generator.. meaning positive when to chassis.. and negative went to solenoid.
soundguy