Ford 851 Restore II

[Ford851]

Hello Ford851 again,

I was happily putting my tractor (Ford 851) back together and put in the gas control lever, tightened it down, and it would not turn. So removed the battery box and found a plate of some sort. Seeing that it was dirty and crusty I tried to undo the bolt in the center holding it down to the tractor. The whole stud came out to the top of the tractor housing. Oh, great.

This thing looked like it needed some serious attention. So I thought I would take the bolt out of the center, but couldn't. I oiled where it rotated around the stud. Put grease on upper and lower side of the pad and cleaned the flat part on top of the tractor housing. Then put grease on the housing and put the assembly back together.

It turns, so I hooked the linkage back up.

But I have the sinking feeling something is wrong and I've missed it. It still looks bad because I can't get the castle nut to release from the center stud (the whole stud turns) and that spider looking on top is still not looking terrible.

What is the purpose of this gizmo and how is it suppose to function?

Thanks in advance,
Ford851:confused2:

 

[Dollar Bill]

The "spider" tensions the throttle to maintain the position of the throttle lever.

Sounds like the threads may be stripped in the housing or on the stud. Might be something JB Weld could fix?

 

[Ford851]

By the way, who is jB Weld?

 

[Ford851]

Just wrote a long post and hit "Reply to Thread" and it disappeared" So I'll try again. Great hearing from you Dollar Bell. Its been a long time. Say thanks for the blow up diagram. You have a ll the slick tools. Noticed that my setup doesn't have the spring. I noticed the hole and thought there should be a spring. Where does the other end of the spring attach?
Is there a set tension that should be applied or is it free style? Do people grease the pad that is under the rotating bracket? When I turned the castle nut the nut, spider spring, and pad came up with the stud. The threads are OK. Took a little time to clean pad and metal surfaces. I greased them and put them back. Thinking I should pull the mechanism out free up castle nut. Any great ideas on how to do this? Heat. Double nut. etc.etc. Got tractor wired and dressed them. Charging battery tonight. Looking to fire up shortly. What to get the ol girl running again before I make any more changes.

Thanks again,
Ford851

PS. Hitting "Post Quick Reply" this time. Hope it works

 

[Dollar Bill]

Where does the other end of the spring attach? Connect to a tab on the bottom of the battery box.

Is there a set tension that should be applied or is it free style? Tight enough to hold the position of the throttle lever but loose enough that you can change engine speed easily.

Do people grease the pad that is under the rotating bracket? It's a friction disk and should not be lubricated.

Any great ideas on how to do this? Heat. One of my favorites.

By the way, who is jB Weld? Two part epoxy available at any automotive parts supplier.

 

[Soundguy]

if the casting is stripped out.. I'd drill and tap for a larger fastener.. like a pipe plug.. then redrill and tap oem.. lotsa work.. but good results..

 

[Ford851]

Thanks guys for the insight. I'll remove bracket and clean pad. Assemble again. Try to fid a spring. I have the part # from Dollar Bill's diagram.
Battery is charged. Firing tractor today for first time in almost 4 months.


See ya later,
Ford851

 

[Ford851]

With the info I now have I pulled the battery box again. Unscrewed the tensioner and the stud came out with the castle nut. Placed the assembly i the vise and with my trusty cut off tool ground the castle nut until I could use a cold chisel on it. The chisel and penetrating oil did the job. Got the stud slightly, but not enough to hurt. Purchased a new nut and proceeded to clean up the tractor housing for installation. Now in the process of cleaning and painting the assembly.
About this time the new fuel tank arrived and I couldn't wait to open it. Been waiting for years to have a fuel gauge on my tractor. Well, guess what? The tank is six inches longer than mine and the brackets are wrong. This thing looks like it came of a military tank... Will send it back tomorrow. The people that sold it to me guaranteed me they were interchangeable. Diesel and gas. Just had to plug one hole and it would otherwise bolt right up. Beware is all I can say. My gas tank is 28 1/2 inches long. The diesel is 34 inches long. Just off by 6 inches.

Also the new dash panel came from a salvage yard today. This thing is also made from armor plate. Twice as heavy as the one I have. Had to deep six all the gauges. They were bad. Will send to media blast tomorrow also. The good side is that it has all the correct holes and very little damage to the metal.

Can someone explain to me what the charge indicator lamp is suppose to look like? The one that came with the dash has a 7/8 nut on the back and a collar on the top of the metal. The lens was painted over in red paint. I could not get it off so I drilled it from the back straight thru then used vise grips to hold it while cranking on the nut with a breaker bar. Kinda need a new one.

Well that is all that got done today. The saga continues. One step forward and 3 back

See ya,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

gotta love it don't ya.

reminds me of some tin I bought for a9xx tractor off ebay a while back.

pieces came welded together that I had to cut apart. hidden runs and wallowed out holes.. wrong dash.. etc.

keep up the good work!

dash indicator lamp would have been near flush to the dash, had a bezel on top and a reddish lense.. sometimes fades a bit to purple..

 

[Ford851]

Spent most of the day a my local Ford tractor dealer and found that their is only 1 gas tank for the 58 to 64 850 with the 172 cu. in. engine. Fits both diesel and gas. The only difference is that the dealer plugged the leak line when using the tank on gas version. However, the sending unit is different. Different materials used with diesel verses gas.

Although my tractor is an 850 as stamped an should be a 172 cu. in. I want to verify this with the numbers stamped on the engine itself. I'm finding out that tractors like cars aren't always what you were told they are when you bought it. Imagine that!!! If someone has swapped in a 132 cu. in. for the 172 I'm in more trouble than i think I'm in at present. One thing just leads to another and on and on.

Oh, before I forget. How do you clean the fine mesh stuffed in the air inlet for the carb.? And the filter in the oil fill cap? Or do you buy new. Looks like they are built to be cleaned with solvent. Help will be appreciated

Thanks,
Ford851