NAA hydralic questions

   / NAA hydralic questions #1  

JasG

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
1,431
Location
CNY
Tractor
B2650,
A friend of mine has a Ford NAA. He asked me to look at the 3 pt hitch due to he said it wouldn't lift as much weight as it once did. Right now it won't even lift the arms (later he admited it was 5+ years ago he noticed this and hasn't used it much since) at all. When I started they were in the up position, but now I can't get anything. The oil was a white color and the book calls for an oil no longer listed. 2 different dealers told me to just use hy-trans. After changing the oil, still no difference, arms do not lift.

On the pump there is an adjusting screw that if I understand correctly turning in increases flow and lift. When I started this was almost out to the point it was touching the motor oil dip stick.

1) Will normal hydraulic tranmission oil be OK? What I took out was much thicker?

2) Where should I begin to test or check this over? Anyway to know for sure if the pump is pumping?

3) What oil should I put in the rear diff and the trans? 2 dealers say hy-trans is what they use, just seems thin vs what is there.
 
   / NAA hydralic questions #2  
utf fluid meeting the m2c134 spec is what is called for.. it repalces the old msc 4864 or whatever the number was.. spec.

you hav ethe old vane pump with flow control.. not so yummy if it has problems...

go ahead and draint he oild oil.. dump in a couple gallons of diesel, a quart of atf fluid.. and a couple pints of 91% rubbing alcohol.. gotta get that emulsified water out of the sump.

once that is out.. refill with oil and then start her up and see if she is pumping.. remove plug on small option cover on top of hyd corner.. front right side. if you have oil there but no 3pt lift at all.. unlad valve is likely stuck. very common.

you will need the fo-19 manual.. will need to back off the backpressure valve under the acorn nut on the side of the center housing.. right side under lift uad.. then rmeove top cover to free up unloader.

post back before you get into all that.
 
   / NAA hydralic questions
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the information, I'll try to flush sometime in the next few days. I already drained the old and figured the hydraulic trans oil wouldn't hurt for a couple of days. Then we will go from there.
 
   / NAA hydralic questions
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I was able to get the 3 pt working today. I pulled the cover in front and to the side of the seat. This seems to be where oil goes into the rockshaft cylinder? Oil was thick milky almost like grease. Started the tractor and no oil with the lever in either position. So I pulled the high pressure pipe from the pump and again started the tractor. After a few seconds a slug of grease like stuff came oil and more milky white oil. Put it back together and 3 point is working.

Now I just need to change all of the fluids. I did throw in some ATF to help clean some of that stuff out so when I drain it I hope most of the water and oil will come out.

Thank you again for the input.
 
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   / NAA hydralic questions #5  
add some alcohol in thwere before draining.. will dissolve the water to help remove it. a lil diesel or mineral spirits or kerosene will help with the emulsified oil too.
 
   / NAA hydralic questions
  • Thread Starter
#6  
add some alcohol in thwere before draining.. will dissolve the water to help remove it. a lil diesel or mineral spirits or kerosene will help with the emulsified oil too.

I was able to fluash the whole mess fairly good and refilled all 3 with hydraulic transmission fluid. I read my friends owners manual through the service section. Under fluids it gives 4864-A, B, & I think D, all different weight oils. Later in the book it say the trans and rear end should be filled with SAE 80.

I'm going to wait till fall so he can run the tractor around and hopefully get all of the junk left mixed into the oil and then reservice the whole thing. Would it be better to fill the trans and rear with 80 weight or will the trans oil be good enough? I know the oil meets NH spec. If I did go with the 80 weight are there seals inside that probably are leaking anyway so due to fluids crossing over it wouldn't be worth it anyway?

Also what is the location to check the trans fluid depth? I see several possible, not sure which one, all are bolt heads. I just went by the book saying 5 quarts, but it also says to check at the plug, but doesn't give a location.
 
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   / NAA hydralic questions #7  
m2c134 spec oil is fine for all 3 sumps.

yes, you could fill the trans and diffy with 80w90 gl5 gear oil. and yes, there is a seal between the HYDS and the REAR that can leak.. utf leaking into the gear oil is no big deal.. gear oil leaking into the hyds.. not a great idea.. though due to the hyds compartment being perched.. less fo a chance. still.. if you wan't to not worry about leaks.. go utf in all 3.

if you have utf in there now, and are worried about a lil water you didn't catch.. just buy 3 cans of trans tune seafoam and add 1 bottle to each sump. it's rated to be added to hyds and tranny systems. it will dissolve the water, and it will evaporate faster that way when it is naturally heated thru use. if it gets used enough you may find all the residual water flashed off
 
   / NAA hydralic questions
  • Thread Starter
#8  
m2c134 spec oil is fine for all 3 sumps.

yes, you could fill the trans and diffy with 80w90 gl5 gear oil. and yes, there is a seal between the HYDS and the REAR that can leak.. utf leaking into the gear oil is no big deal.. gear oil leaking into the hyds.. not a great idea.. though due to the hyds compartment being perched.. less fo a chance. still.. if you wan't to not worry about leaks.. go utf in all 3.

if you have utf in there now, and are worried about a lil water you didn't catch.. just buy 3 cans of trans tune seafoam and add 1 bottle to each sump. it's rated to be added to hyds and tranny systems. it will dissolve the water, and it will evaporate faster that way when it is naturally heated thru use. if it gets used enough you may find all the residual water flashed off

As long as the UTF is fine, it will make things simpler so we will stick with that.

Thank you again.

Take care.
 
   / NAA hydralic questions #9  
yep.. utf is more than fine.

rear end noise may go up a hair due to not dampening the sound as much.. but addative wise.. it's a good fluid.. and rated for that service..
 
   / NAA hydralic questions
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Tractor has been running good and I serviced it again today. Drained all 3 sumps, still had a little milky oil left over, but no where near as bad as the 1st couple times last year.

One thing I noticed and remember from before. The manual doesn't tell how to check the transmission fluid level. Is there a way to know if it is correct? It just says to drain and add 5 quarts, which I did, but how do you check it?
 
 
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