8N Side Mount, No Spark

[chriscos]

I'm on day 3 of trying to get spark going on my '52 8N with a side mount distrubutor. It is all stock 6V components. I've searched and read up on everything but nothing seems to work. Was hoping someone might have some ideas here.

I just got this 8N. I also have a 51 8N with a side mount, but that one is a 12 volt conversion, so I have dealt with points and the tractor in general, just not in a 6 Volt system. Thew new '52 was running "awhile ago". I put new gas in it, ran some carb cleaner through the carb, verified gas flows into the carb, put a new charged battery in it, crossed my fingers, and hit the started button. It turned over. Next thing I did was check for spark at the plugs. Nothing, but there were pretty crusty looking and the tips looked fouled. I changed the plugs to new plugs, gapped to .025, gave the points a quick polish and set the gap at .025 for those too, tried again, no spark.

Then I took a second look at the battery and realized I had it wired up negative ground (whoops), so I turned it around and hooked it back up positive ground. Tried again, no spark at the plugs.

Then I went and got a new tractor supply 6V coil, wired it in, figuring I might have cooked the coil. Still no spark at the plugs.

Then I went and got new points and condenser, installed them, gapped points at .025. No spark.

Then I grabbed my multimeter. Verified I have 6 volts going into the coil. When I check the voltage from the battery side of the coil to the points arm I also have 6 volts. So I know I got 6 volts into the distributor.

I rewired my old coil back in for giggles. No spark.

I put the new coil back on. No spark.

I prayed. No spark.

I turned the engine over with distributor cover off so I could see the points work. They are opening. I did the same with the ignition on and have no visible spark when the points open. I re-verified that the points arm is getting 6 volts. Shouldn't I see a sparking when the points are opening? I redid this in the dark of night to see if there was even a tiny spark at the points. Nothing.

I am keeping the battery charged up every night and in between trips to the parts store.

I don't know what to try next. Any suggestions (besides converting to 12 Volt)?

 

[Depmandog]

I have attached a wiring diagram I located. My suggestion is to check for continuity on the wires. My guess is you have a broken wire somewhere.




Wiring issues can be frustrating. Good luck!

 

[WWW61]

It's been 40 years since I messed with one of these, but I think theirs a resister mounted around the dash. Check with Soundguy he'll know for sure. Wayne

 

[heviduty]

chriscos,
Verify you have a rotary button and it is turning when the engine cranks. You might try plugging a spark plug wire directly into the coil tower and plug the other end onto a grounded spark plug. Then, with the switch on, every time you open the points you should see a spark in the plug.

With the points open and the key switch on, you should read 6 volts to ground on both low voltage terminals of the coil. This proves the coil has continuity. With the key switch on and points closed, coil bat. terminal should have 6 volts and the other should have 0 volts. In fact, you should read 6 volts across the coil. This proves there is current flowing through the coil. If current is flowing and you open the points, you should get a spark. As for seeing a spark on the points, you should see little or no spark if the condenser is good.

 

[Soundguy]

i answered ya on ytmag. no change in answer...

 

[chriscos]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Turns out it was a short where the wire from the coil comes into the side of the distributor. There is an insulator inside that was disintegrating. I jury rigged a piece of cardboard to act as an insulator and verified that is where the problem was. I have spark on all plugs now.

 

[Soundguy]

plastic license plate insert grommet works good there.. ort a wire run in and pushed to the side to stay out of the advance.. and a dab of rtv.. etc..