1841 Hydraulic pump question

[glinke]

I have an 1841 which has the piston hydraulic pump. It was losing prime often and needed rebuilding. Everything was going fine with the dis-assembly until I got to what Ford calls the "plate" it is part no 310205. This piece will NOT come out of the cover (part no 312059). I got the screw out of the center with no problems but the plate is stuck in the cover.

I have tried banging the cover on the workbench - wood surface, tapping the center hole - it's too hard for a tap or a drill bit. Do I need to cut it into little pieces with my cutoff tool? It doesn't seem to be threaded in. It's like the previous owner used gasket cement when putting the plate back into the cover.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Gayle Linke

 

[Soundguy]

post pics of the assembly.. maybee we can see an issue.

in the parts diagram is it #7, 8 or 12

 

[glinke]

It's part 8 that is the plate. Part 12 is the gasket between the body and the plate. Part 7 is the gasket between the plate and the cover. It looked like part 12 was put on with some kind of gasket cement so that is is what I think the problem with getting the plate out, too. I tried applying heat to the plate thinking I might get it hot enough to burn out the gasket or at least release the gasket cement. The propane torch I was using malfunctioned and I had flames coming from the end of the torch and the top of the control valve at the same time. It really got my attention. No damage to me or the garage, though!

I tried tapping the center hole of the plate thinking I could run a screw down and pop it loose from the cover. The plate is so hard, I can't drill it.

I will try to take some pictures this evening.

Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

my guess is someone cemented it in

 

[glinke]

I got a new torch - one of the Mapp and Oxygen ones. I applied heat for about 5 minutes and then could pry it out. I'm not sure if I burnt out the old gasket cement, but there wasn't much gasket to remove. Now on to removing the old seal!

 

[MikesTractor]

I see you got the plate out, so that is good. Those plates usually stick really good without any sealer, and the longer they stay together, the harder they are to get apart. I've seen some that were a real pain to get out. The plate is very hard, so you will break any tap you try to thread it with. Here is the way Ford taught us do it. If you look at the bolt holes in the end of the cover (#312059), one of the bolt holes is a little larger diameter than the other 5. All of the bolt holes in the plate (#310205) are the same size. This leaves you a small part of the plate showing at the bottom of the hole. You can use a drift in the larger hole in the cover and tap the plate loose with a hammer.

I realize this won't help you now. Just glad you got it apart.

Mike

 

[glinke]

Thanks, Mike!

Any idea how to get the seal out? I tried to put a bolt with a nut in where the rubber part of the seal was and drive that out, but it did not work. I took the weekend off from the project because of TX State Guard drill. Now I need to get back after it.

Thanks again!

 

[J_J]

Put it in the freezer and the part may shrink.

or

use CO2

 

[MikesTractor]

Yeah, that seal can be a bugger. Since it sits behind the tapered bearing race, the race will have to come out also. If you can get the race out first, it is a little easier to get the seal out. I use a modified long slim chisel to do this. It is about 10 inches long and about 1/2" wide. I heated and bent about 1 inch of the tip to about 20 degrees, then shaped the tip to fit the profile of the housing. All the measurements were just guessing until I got it to work the way I wanted. It allows me to reach through the seal and remove the bearing race, then remove the seal. Be careful to not damage the needle bearing unless you are replacing it.

I have attached a sketch I did in MS Paint (I'm not a cad artist). Again, this is what works for me.



Mike

 

[MikesTractor]

There should be a little space between the seal and race, but if the seal is against the race, you will have to knock them out together. It isn't easy, but can be done. Ford makes a tool for this, it gets needle bearing, seal, and bearing race all at one time. Using this tool will ruin the needle bearing, which is OK if it needs replacing anyway.

Mike