1950 Ford 8N w/ side mount.. need advice

[rpsbuilders]

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum and tractor world! I recently purchased a well kept 1950 Ford 8N with side mount dist. and converted to 12V.
The previous owner, just prior to selling, had a local mechanic do the conversion. I am concerned that is was done improperly as I have narrowed my problems to ignition/electrical. The tractor initially ran great but lacked a little power and would cough or hesitate when under load. The condition worsened to the point of having to run half choke, then eventually died.

Before reading several posts and joining TBN, I made the mistake of throwing parts at it. I put a new carb on it, no change. I installed plugs, wires, points, condensor, rotor and cap. I also made certain the fuel delivery is good and cleaned the air filter. The tractor would start and idle rough after changes but would not rev up. It seemed to be running very rich. I removed cap, adjusted points and it started right up. It idled perfect as well as throttled up great. I drove around for a few minutes. I tried road gear full throttle and the initial coughing started again. Help!!

 

[Varmint1]

Make sure they put a resistor inline to the coil and that they used a 12 volt coil, sounds to me the coil is getting hot due to the fact it might be getting the full 12 volts

 

[Soundguy]

Make sure they put a resistor inline to the coil and that they used a 12 volt coil, sounds to me the coil is getting hot due to the fact it might be getting the full 12 volts

well that's just plain BAD advice.

you are telling the guy to use a resistor AND a 12v coil.

Sorry bud.. one or the other.. not BOTH.

If you use a 12v coil, like a napa ic14sb ( or many others ).. there is NO NEED for any more resistance int he primary.

If you are using a 6v coil, then YES, you NEED extra serial primary resistance.


To the OP... set your plug and points gap to .025

check spark.. should be bright white/blue and snappy.. checked in open air should jump a max plug gap.. IE.. gap as wide as from electrode to shell.

no orange or weak sparks.


once you get spark handled.. check her. if still bad, then lets tweak that carb.

black plugs that are fuzzy mean rich.. black wet plugs means an oil pumper.

rich can be caused by too much main jet.. or a vacume leak at the manifold or carb, and you are having to compensate with fuel enrichment.

post back

 

[rpsbuilders]

Hi guys,

Thanks for lending a hand. I have determined no resistor. The local auto parts store has a round 12v coil for around $30.00. I was told that it works in the Dexter series and the part is only listed as a 6 volt.
Will this work? Dimensions are close to what is on it. Would be a stupid question to ask how I determine the status of the existing( 6 or 12)?

 

[Soundguy]

so lets review this to make sure i got it right.

they want to sell you a 30$ coil for use in a 12v application that is really a 6v coil.


It's common to sell a 6v coil for use in a 12v application for when aextr series primary resistance is used. in fine print it may say 12v with external resistance.

IMHO.. not hte best choice here.

Napa sells an IC14SB 16$ TRUE 12v coil.. IE.. it's primary resistance is over 3 ohms and it can run on 12v with no external resistor. In fine print it says no external resistance required.

there are probably more ic14sb coils instaleld on fords converted to 12v, than any other coil..

coil primary resistance will give you a clue as to what voltage it can run on natively.

.5-1.5 ohms is usually what you see on a 6v coil.

then you see some odd 2.5 ohm coils.. usually square, front mount, that claim 12v.. but again.. they need the oem ballast resistor the front mount uses.

not really till you get to 3ohms will you see coils rated for 12v use and no resistors.. at least on breaker contact systems. I have seen some 'hotrod' coils in the lower than 3 ohm levels used in electronic ignition setups.. as they do not have to worry about surface area of the contacts heating and arcing as they are handling the circuit opening and closing in a transistor junction. Typically those coils are also oil potted for better heat disipation, and may have cooling find, and or finned adapters or brackets to help cool, as well as special internal construction and materials to better deal with the power disipation expected.

Hi guys,

Thanks for lending a hand. I have determined no resistor. The local auto parts store has a round 12v coil for around $30.00. I was told that it works in the Dexter series and the part is only listed as a 6 volt.
Will this work? Dimensions are close to what is on it. Would be a stupid question to ask how I determine the status of the existing( 6 or 12)?

 

[rpsbuilders]

Soundguy,

Thanks for all your advice! I located the ic14sb coil, installed it, and the tractor is running great!

 

[Soundguy]

good deal. the ic14sb is a good cheap coil too.. should get lots of years out of one.

I've yet to replace one..

 

[467ron]

ToSoundgoy what about the set up for a front mount coil and replaement suggestions and what about aresistor should there be one on the 12V conversion . I have a replacement that said it is 12V just curious

 

[Soundguy]

to my knowledge, there are NO native 12v front mount square coils. they deceptively say to use in a 12v system.. but don't tell you that you still need serial priamry resistance..

there are 2.5 ohm ones that still need the oem ballast resistor.

if it is the 6v oem coil.. it needs the oem ballast resistor AND a dropping resistor to get primary current down into the 3.5a or so range..

there are blank off plates to let you use a round coil on a front mount. i'd use a napa ic14sb if still using points.. and NO resistor.. if using an EI, and 12v neg ground.. use the coil the EI manufacturer reccomends..