Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications)

   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications)
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Thanks guys! I'm trying to put all my spare time into back up and running. I wished some things were faster (and I could afford sandblasting!). But, this has been a great learning experience - I wouldn't even be working on a tractor at all if not for this site!! BTW, SoundGuy (or anybody who knows) reckon that standpipe will be a problem to braze back? The owner of the radiator shop was gone when I dropped off radiator & standpipe. It fits in there good, just lost its grip. I know that was leaking diesel back down to the cylinders. (I wished I had found it sooner).
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #52  
This is a great project. I am impressed with your fabrication skills. I was looking back through some of your pics this morning and saw something that concerned me a little. Where the fender used to sit, you have 2 bolts on each side going through the axle to hold the backhoe sub-frame. This needs to be reinforced so the bolts won't break off the ears of the hole. You need a steel plate on top of the axle for extra support. Most of them that I have seen are about 1/2in thick, about 4in wide, and long enough to reach both bolts. That axle housing is cast iron and will break. I have seen these break before with only a loader attached. Remember, these 4 bolts are supporting everything on the back of the tractor. This is a really easy fix and will save you a headache down the road.

Keep up the good work.

Mike
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #53  
deffinately some nice fab work!
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications)
  • Thread Starter
#54  
This is a great project. I am impressed with your fabrication skills. I was looking back through some of your pics this morning and saw something that concerned me a little. Where the fender used to sit, you have 2 bolts on each side going through the axle to hold the backhoe sub-frame. This needs to be reinforced so the bolts won't break off the ears of the hole. You need a steel plate on top of the axle for extra support. Most of them that I have seen are about 1/2in thick, about 4in wide, and long enough to reach both bolts. That axle housing is cast iron and will break. I have seen these break before with only a loader attached. Remember, these 4 bolts are supporting everything on the back of the tractor. This is a really easy fix and will save you a headache down the road.

Keep up the good work.

Mike
Thanks very much for the advice & kind words. I think my design incorporates the same basic idea you are suggesting, I知 just not there yet. (I知 a little slow & I get sidetracked on other modification ideas too much)! This loader & backhoe didn't come as a unit (FEL is MF) and neither had much subframe left & it appeared to me that the biggest challenge was to modify the tractor so the stress of contortion (and weight) would be minimized & hopefully prevented.

I know there are many three-point backhoes that are effective machines, but I don稚 know enough about the engineering utilized to make them function under the stress of BH/FEL. But, I did grab one idea from the 3-point design that I high-jacked for my subframe & I believe greatly increased the strength of the over-all sub-frame.

It痴 kind of deceiving from the pictures I致e posted, but the fender brackets aren稚 actually carrying the lion痴 share of the load, although it appears that way. Instead of the weight hanging down from the fender brackets, I thought the first point of support should be under the rear housing (and the bell-housing further up the tractor). So, bolted into the rear housing is the initial port/starboard brace. June 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 003.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 004.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 005.jpg
My next step was to figure out the beefiest parts of the casting to take the majority of the BH weight. This is when it occurred to me that the lower link supports were designed just for that purpose! I致e seen some heavy implements raised with those supports, so that became the second two stress points.
June 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 006.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 007.jpg
Then, yes the fender brackets were incorporated into the outer line of the sub-frame, but I made every effort to have the brackets supported from the center out, instead of vice-versa. June 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 001.jpg

But, I do agree the axle benefits from further reduction in stress points. I tried to make this work both as a step & box in the axle. I haven稚 covered any of the sub-frame with the diamond plate yet, but it will be bolted across the width of the axle. (I think it needs to be shimmed セ of an inch to compensate SoundGuy probably knows).June 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 007.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 008.jpg

As crazy as it looks, the frame can be removed completely from the tractor but I hope I never need to do so. I have looked at the drawings of the Ford sub-frames & tried to pull as much from them as possible, but please anything that looks wrong or fixing let me know. I would prefer over-kill if anything!

I'm still playing with colours for the paint scheme & I managed to get a rear wheel (mostly painted).
June 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 009.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 010.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 011.jpgJune 24, 2013 tractor backhoe 012.jpg
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #55  
I can see that you have put a lot of thought into this, and it is coming along great. That one plate was the only thing that concerned me. If you add it along with everything else you are doing for support, then I think you will be fine.

Keep up the good work.

Mike
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications)
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Thank you, Mike. I will be adding the plates on both axles, I really appreciate the help! I want to avoid as many mishaps as possible.

BTW, I'm trying to find a foot throttle for this tractor (diesel) & I'm having a hard time. I've been told there was one made, but I have only found them for the 4000. I wonder if it is the same kit? Wasn't 801 & 4000 the same tractor for a couple years?
I can see that you have put a lot of thought into this, and it is coming along great. That one plate was the only thing that concerned me. If you add it along with everything else you are doing for support, then I think you will be fine.

Keep up the good work.

Mike
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #57  
I picked up a foot throttle at Alexander Tractor in Winsboro tx, on my way through from work. Call them and see if they might have another one
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications)
  • Thread Starter
#58  
That's a good idea, I'll give 'em a call. Thanks for the head's up!
I picked up a foot throttle at Alexander Tractor in Winsboro tx, on my way through from work. Call them and see if they might have another one
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #59  
BTW, I'm trying to find a foot throttle for this tractor (diesel) & I'm having a hard time. I've been told there was one made, but I have only found them for the 4000. I wonder if it is the same kit? Wasn't 801 & 4000 the same tractor for a couple years?

The foot throttle was offered on industrial models from around 1958 to 1964, such as the 1801, 4040, and 4140. You might also look at forklifts built on those 4 cylinder chassis. A lot of them had foot throttles. Maybe they might work. Like Varmit1 said, you might find one at a tractor salvage yard.

Mike
 
   / Ford 841D - first tractor project (modifications) #60  
you can also make your own very easily.
 
 
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