Ford 8N having trouble starting -- many troubleshooting steps take -- suggestions?

[Soundguy]

might have been your loss of spark.

that piece of metal broke off was a tab that held an insulated concave head screw.. as you know, that's the connection point from t he pig tail of the coil ( primary ).. over to the moving insulated section of the points.

if you rig it so it is reliable..... just get a new breaker plate...

[94BULLITT]

Here is a new distributor. Ford Tractor Distributor - Order on-line

Wengers may have a used one.

You may want to put a electronic conversion in the distributor while you are at it.

[PorkChopsMmm]

OK -- back inside. Soundguy -- you will probably find this funny. I was born and raised in St. Petersburg Florida. Growing up I never even saw snow. Little did I know I would move up here and see it every day of winter.

Sooo.... I installed the distributor, coil, etc. and it went on very easily. The tractor still won't start and I think I know why -- the solenoid.

I had my voltmeter hooked up with alligator clips so I could try to start the tractor. At rest the battery was ~ 12.7. When I turned the key to the on position I immediately got a draw of power down to 12.4. While installing the distributor I was packing up my tools and one hit the terminal on the alternator -- there was a spark! So I tested the alternator and sure enough -- with the tractor off and only the key on -- it was getting power. The coil was getting a weird amount... something like 8V or some such because it was fluctuating.

Looking back the tractor started fine although it would have a sticking starter with the old solenoid. I installed a new 12V one and now the tractor won't start and has a constant draw. Could I have a bad solenoid? It is hooked up the same as the old one.

Old solenoid:


New solenoid:

[PorkChopsMmm]

94BULLITT -- thanks for the heads up. I actually work in the middle of farm country. 8N's are pretty popular out here -- I was going to keep and eye out for one at some auctions that are coming up. Hopefully I can save some money that way.

[sd455dan]

Yeah, you guys are right. I will do that. I will start tonight and let you know how far I get. The only thing that scares me is replacing the points.

I read your last post. If the starter will spin the engine over but no start make sure the points are opening/ closing. Points should be open when the distributor shaft cam is on the top of a lobe with the points rubbing block parked, points should be open at least .016 Now if you turn the key on and turn to start (tractor in neutral) those points should spark while the dist. shaft rotates, if not it sounds like your not getting power to the points in the start position. Check that power is getting from the R (relay ) terminal on the solenoid to the coil + terminal- hope I read that right ?

[sd455dan]

I read your last post. If the starter will spin the engine over but no start make sure the points are opening/ closing. Points should be open when the distributor shaft cam is on the top of a lobe with the points rubbing block parked, points should be open at least .016 Now if you turn the key on and turn to start (tractor in neutral) those points should spark while the dist. shaft rotates, if not it sounds like your not getting power to the points in the start position. Check that power is getting from the R (relay ) terminal on the solenoid to the coil + terminal- hope I read that right ?

Just looked at your last photos, we're on dial up and its so slooooow when downloading pictures. Let me get this right the solenoid side with 3 wires is battery +, ignition switch batt , alternator batt. the other large connector is starter solenoid main lug, and the small terminal is start wire from key switch.. I guess i need to go back and look at your earlier pictures for the wiring to the coil. It sounds like there should be 2 wires from the ignition switch to the 12 volt coil, one from the ignition switch start position to the + terminal on coil, another wire from the run or on position to a ballast resistor 2.5 ohm sounds about right. some companies have used (resistance wire) GM in the 60's for sure. the wire from the ballast resistor ends at the coil + terminal also. The wire from the - coil position should be the distributor wire... disregard what I said in the previous post about the relay wire from the solenoid. hope this is helpful.

[PorkChopsMmm]

A co-worker had a good suggestion -- throw the old solenoid on there and see if it has any different behavior. If it does then there you go, if not continue down the rabbit hole.

[Soundguy]

are ou using the oem thumb start button or key start.

oe thumb button uses the oe solenoid.

key start uses a differnet solenoid.

if you have power ont he coil with key off.. you have wire problems

[csmcmf]

I didn't read all the threads, but if your not sure if your wiring is correct check out Ford Tractor Repairs Wiring Backhoe 9N 2N 8N . I had similar problems on my 9N with 12 volt conversion and electronic ignition, compared my wiring with the digrams on the web site, found my problem and it runs like a champ. That is a great site for Ford 9N,2N,8N owners.

[trentonford3000]

i would try cleaning the carb if it was cold( it might be low compression) then dump a little gas in each of the cilinders and put a rag in the air breather to plug it off then repeat until it starts works for ours(low compression)