Ford 8N having trouble starting -- many troubleshooting steps take -- suggestions?

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks for the reminder on the spark plug gaps. I would think that even if the fuel was having issues flowing it should at least spark and try to ignite and turn over. I tried to take pictures and video of gas pouring our of the carb and later the fuel line but it was too dark.

 

[Soundguy]

I know you all have said that my sediment bowl/filter on the gas tank could be clogged, but wouldn't that not be an issue because all of the gas coming out last night? E.g. with the carb off and I open the dial on the fuel shut off 2 turns, or fully out, fuel started to pour out of the fuel line. Even with the carb hooked up fuel was coming out.

I am going to try and find Autolite 437's locally. NAPA didn't have them and the guy at Tractor Supply looked at me like I was crazy when I asked about carb gaskets and spark plugs. The auto store "parts plus" is next.

if you have fuel flow thru the carb.. flow is not an issue.

tsc and napa should have the carb kits if MS carb ( tsx 33/241 variant ).. napa and tsc should both have something that at least crosses to the al 437 ( champion h12 ).. or the oe H10 or a al 216 anyway.


check points.. and wiring to coil.. bypass and hotwire coil for a test.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

check points.. and wiring to coil.. bypass and hotwire coil for a test.

Thank you for the continued help. Can you expand on this a bit? I would like to do this but not sure how.

I found this how-to on testing the coil -- is this what you would recommend?
How do you test the coil on your Ford 8N tractor
To test most any coil, you'll need to "pulse" it with a battery. (Why not use the battery right there?) Disconnect the "hot" wire from the coil. It's the one that goes to the distributor (where the breaker points are). Now take the high voltage wire out of the distributor center, leaving the other end in the coil. Place the end of that open high voltage wire, the one you took out of the distributor, on a metal part. The trick is not to actually make metal-to-metal contact, but to set up a "spark gap" between the end of that high voltage wire and the metal. Use whatever grounded metal is handy. The valve cover, the exhaust manifold, whatever. You don't have to set up a specific sized gap. Anything from a quarter inch to an inch is okay. You just need to be able to see the gap.

Now get a wire and connect it to the positive terminal of the battery. Then take the other end and briefly touch the side of the coil you removed the wire from. (The other end of the coil is the side of it that is grounded, so it's connected to the negative terminal of the battery through ground.) By "pulsing" the positive side of the coil with the "hot" wire you just hooked up to the battery, you should see a spark across the "gap" you set up. That's a go-no go test most wannabe mechanics use (and some real mechanics, too!).

Note! The spark is "real" here. Insure there isn't a lot of fuel vapor "floating around" when you're conducting your test. Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

one more question.. you keep mention not turning over?

is it really not turning over.. or turning over fine and not starting?

if not turning over.. we need to back up ALOT

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Sorry, poor use of words. It is turning over but not igniting/firing.

 

[Soundguy]

just making sure we are addressing all the problems

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks. Picked up H12's, dielectric grease, and a gapping tool.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

It works! I tested the spark from all 4 wires using one of the plugs and switching from each wire (couldn't get 3 of the plugs out using my socket and wrench -- it was too tall to fit underneath the gas tank). There was good spark and I even ashamedly got shocked once. I hooked the carb up, sprayed in some starting fluid and gave it a go. After a while it finally ignited and fire up. I let it idle for 20 minutes or so. I attribute it starting up to your guidance on cleaning the carb and also to this how-to where it discusses how to tweak the carbs for initial start up.

Yesterday's Tractors - Step by Step Carburetor Overhaul - 1952 Ford 8N

This guide also mentions tweaking the carb after it has been running -- I didn't get this far because I couldn't pull up the how-to once outside on my smartphone. I will do this once I plow tomorrow.

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Turn on the fuel valve feeding the carburetor and check for leaks, tighten as necessary. Put the engine throttle at idle and start the tractor. This may require more than one set of hands: adjust the idle mixture screw out until the idle starts to stumble, then turn the idle mixture screw in 1/2 turn. Set the idle speed screw to 400 rpm. Run the engine throttle up to max rpm and back out the power mixture screw until the engine just starts to lose power, then screw back in 1/2 turn.
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I also checked the fuel bowl and it gave it a swipe with my finger. There was some minor sand/rust in the bottom of the bowl and in just spot checking the screen it looked clear (although this was the bottom of the screen).

 

[94BULLITT]

I am glad you got it going.:thumbsup: I would still check out the gas tank when you get a chance ASAP. That crud that was in your carb and fuel filter originated in the tank.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks 94BULLIT.

I will get her out plowing tomorrow and see how she performs. If I get stuck on the side of the road again I am going to cry! :hissyfit: