My 8n lift will go up and down nicely with no implements on it. I just attached a 6' woods mower and now find out it will lift fine, but sticks and when I try to lower it. If I wait awhile, it will eventually let loose and slam down. I think it's a sticky exhaust valve on the hyd system? if so, is there any magic in a bottle that I can add to help clean or free sticky valves? Or am I way off base on this thought? I didn't want to put anything in there without asking advice first - thanks!!
8N hydraulic lift - sticking won't go down
- Thread starter calh22554
- Start date
Some background - I bought this from a guy who hadn't used it in 5 years. the oil was not too dirty but had water in it. I drained it, flushed it with diesel fuel 2x to clean it out. When I did this I ran the pump with diesel in there, thinking I was doing the right thing by flushing everything out. After this I let it dry out for about 10 days and then added my clean GL1 oil. Everything works great with no implements on it, so figured I did everything right. But now.... I'm not so sure - maybe I did more harm.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
no more harm thatn it's alredy seen in 5-6 decades. without a full cleaning though you may have freed'd up some entrained gunk on the bottom of the sump.
do this.
pull the inspection cover with the dipstick in it.
raise the lift. now lower it. observe that arm/rod fromthe top cover that goes down to a lil rocker and valve on the back side of the 8n pump. when you lower the lift handle, if the rod does not move. reach in with a hammer handle and push on the rod to help it move. if it pops free nad moves and hte lift drips.. you know you've got a lil grit int here stickingthe control valve.. and yeah.. not letting it exhaust.
if that is it.. here are some possible ways to fix.
I know oil ain't cheap. if the oil looks ok.. get a clean bucket and drainthe oil at the rear sump anfter cleaning the belly.
allow the oil to settle and then pour it off thru an old tshirt. save that oil.
jackt he rear end up a bit to make etting under easier.. and any oil inthe trans trapped by the webbing to mve forward a bit.
pull pto shaft and drop pump.
hav ethe lower pump gasket and pto shaft gasket and side cover gasket on hand.
no gasket goop.
clean up pump base plate. I pressure washed mine..
in fact. won't hurt to stick that pressure washer inand give a few shots int he pto housing and then take the garden hose and give a good rinse thru.
let everything dry. clean bottom of sump flange for ney gasket. pup pump back in and get that control arm in the slot.
with bolts loose slip in pto shaft.
tighten all up per book spec.
add oil back in and check level. may have to top off.
dump in a pint of 90% rubbing alcohol.. will healp water flash off faster.
now take her out and use her.
post back.
( ps. I've removed the trans filler or cover and have cleaned out the trans on my N as well doing a full cleaning.
that's up to you if you want to go that far. most of the dirt int he trans sump won't migrate tot he difyy due to the webbing... but i wanted mine clean.
when doing that. use more alcohol.. etc..
do this.
pull the inspection cover with the dipstick in it.
raise the lift. now lower it. observe that arm/rod fromthe top cover that goes down to a lil rocker and valve on the back side of the 8n pump. when you lower the lift handle, if the rod does not move. reach in with a hammer handle and push on the rod to help it move. if it pops free nad moves and hte lift drips.. you know you've got a lil grit int here stickingthe control valve.. and yeah.. not letting it exhaust.
if that is it.. here are some possible ways to fix.
I know oil ain't cheap. if the oil looks ok.. get a clean bucket and drainthe oil at the rear sump anfter cleaning the belly.
allow the oil to settle and then pour it off thru an old tshirt. save that oil.
jackt he rear end up a bit to make etting under easier.. and any oil inthe trans trapped by the webbing to mve forward a bit.
pull pto shaft and drop pump.
hav ethe lower pump gasket and pto shaft gasket and side cover gasket on hand.
no gasket goop.
clean up pump base plate. I pressure washed mine..
in fact. won't hurt to stick that pressure washer inand give a few shots int he pto housing and then take the garden hose and give a good rinse thru.
let everything dry. clean bottom of sump flange for ney gasket. pup pump back in and get that control arm in the slot.
with bolts loose slip in pto shaft.
tighten all up per book spec.
add oil back in and check level. may have to top off.
dump in a pint of 90% rubbing alcohol.. will healp water flash off faster.
now take her out and use her.
post back.
( ps. I've removed the trans filler or cover and have cleaned out the trans on my N as well doing a full cleaning.
that's up to you if you want to go that far. most of the dirt int he trans sump won't migrate tot he difyy due to the webbing... but i wanted mine clean.
when doing that. use more alcohol.. etc..
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 52,238
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
so far i've never found anything that would disolve sand.. have you?
Depmandog
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Well...there is hydrofluoric acid. Also takes care of rust
(this is a JOKE people. DO NOT USE!!!)
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
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- Messages
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- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
nothing to 'tear' into.
you are removing the pump en-masse not taking the pump apart.
you are removing the pump en-masse not taking the pump apart.
Ok so I orderd the gasket kit and I decided to get a rebuild kit for the pump as long as its out. Just to confirm - the lift sticks when it gets to the top. If I don't lift it all the way up, then I can raise and lower it. Once it hits the too, it's stuck. I've also started to hear a knocking sound in the pump area. I think the ram is good because it will stay up for hours witha heavy mower on it.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
the knock is wear in the scotch yokes. worry more when it stops knocking.
many of us with N's have listened to knocking pumps for decades.
the problem with rebuild kits is some of the parts are made so bad.. they are unuseable...
the sticking is probably related to grit inthe oil and movement of the control valve. more movement.. higher it goes.. more chance to stick.
many of us with N's have listened to knocking pumps for decades.
the problem with rebuild kits is some of the parts are made so bad.. they are unuseable...
the sticking is probably related to grit inthe oil and movement of the control valve. more movement.. higher it goes.. more chance to stick.