BuickFarmer
New member
Looking at eBay... are the IT manuals good enough or do I need an actual Ford manual? Any other better sources?
Need Service Manual for 74 Ford 2000
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
for what kind of work?
general ownership and maintenance and light stuff like changing a clutch or a brake job / water pump? sure.. it is fine.
rebuildign the engine or the trans? get a factory service manual
general ownership and maintenance and light stuff like changing a clutch or a brake job / water pump? sure.. it is fine.
rebuildign the engine or the trans? get a factory service manual
OP
BuickFarmer
New member
thanks Soundguy. for right now it would be mainly for cleaning the hyd filter in hopes that is the problem with the erratic action of my hydraulics
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i'd give her a good flush first, before tearing that top cover off.
mix a gallon of diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits - your choice, plus a quart type f or dex/merc 3 atf, plus 3 pints 90-91% rubbing alcohol. dump in the rear end / hyds and make a victory lap or 2 around the pasture.. then drain.
if the filter is plugged with water or emulsified oil, the diesel and alcohol will disolve the emulsified oil, and the alcohol will solvate the free water. the atf adds some detergent for suspension of other crud to help remove when draining.. and the diesel just generally thins the mix so that when it does drain.. it does so fast carrying more crud with it.
try that. cost is about 10$ depending on where you get your stuff. on mild to medium water issues.. it usually works. if the filters are full plugged with debris and junk .. they will requre mechanical repalcement.. etc.
mix a gallon of diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits - your choice, plus a quart type f or dex/merc 3 atf, plus 3 pints 90-91% rubbing alcohol. dump in the rear end / hyds and make a victory lap or 2 around the pasture.. then drain.
if the filter is plugged with water or emulsified oil, the diesel and alcohol will disolve the emulsified oil, and the alcohol will solvate the free water. the atf adds some detergent for suspension of other crud to help remove when draining.. and the diesel just generally thins the mix so that when it does drain.. it does so fast carrying more crud with it.
try that. cost is about 10$ depending on where you get your stuff. on mild to medium water issues.. it usually works. if the filters are full plugged with debris and junk .. they will requre mechanical repalcement.. etc.
OP
BuickFarmer
New member
I'll try that. I just changed out the hyd fluid in the transmission and the rear axle hoping this would help the problem. Have not ran the tractor but for maybe 20-30 minutes or so since. (To test the 3 point lift) If I do this flush, can I strain and reuse the $59/5 gal fluid.
thanks soundguy
thanks soundguy
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
depends on what it looks like. if the sump is wet.. the oil is a gonner IMHO
OP
BuickFarmer
New member
What do you mean by "if the sump is wet". I can pull a nailhead engine and Dynaflow tranny from a 54 Buick with my eyes closed but am not too familiar with tractor jargon. What is a sump and why is it bad if it is "wet". Sorry to be so dumb. Maybe what I need is a Ford 200 Service Manual For Dummies"
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Full Definition of SUMP :receptacle for liquids
your oil pan is a sump.
your diffy case is a sump, tranny is a sump.. your swimming pool, septic tank.., cesspool..e tc.
wet.. as in containing water.
if there was water in the sump when you drained the oil and added new oil.. it mixed and partially emulsified. depending ont he amount of water.. it could be just hazy to cloudy, to looking like a milkshake. the first of the 3 will clear with heat and use and not cause much problem.. especially iff you add in a pint of 90% rubbing alcohol.. makes an azeotrope...
a manual is never a bad thing to have... though many things it won't tell you etc..
Cbrown9064
Silver Member
To add on to what Soundguy is saying here...if you drain the fluid, and use the "magic juice formula" to clean things out, and if there was water in the previous fluid, there is no sense putting back in the original fluid that had water emulsified in it. What does the fluid in the sump look like now? My bet is it does not look the way it came out of the pail. If it looks at all cloudy or milkshake like, then there is water in it. No amount of straining will get it out.
My $.02 is if you are going to go through all the trouble of cleaning the sumps with Soundguys "magic juice" why put potentially contaminated fluid back in? $50 for UTF is cheap in the scheme of things...
My $.02 is if you are going to go through all the trouble of cleaning the sumps with Soundguys "magic juice" why put potentially contaminated fluid back in? $50 for UTF is cheap in the scheme of things...
OP
BuickFarmer
New member
Gotcha re a wet sump. To use in a sentence....."After having a few beers, one must drain his wet sump"
When I first changed out my tranny and rear axle fluids in hopes of that being the problem of the erratic lift actions, the tranny fluid was very cloudy. The rear axle was very black and did not appear to have water in it. I will see what it looks like when I drain it to do the flush.
When I first changed out my tranny and rear axle fluids in hopes of that being the problem of the erratic lift actions, the tranny fluid was very cloudy. The rear axle was very black and did not appear to have water in it. I will see what it looks like when I drain it to do the flush.