Ford 850 Wiring diagram to 12 volt

[shealray]

You asked for a picture of my tractor so others could learn from my experience with it.
The most valued experience I have learned is 鉄haring ideas? the willingness too
help a stranger with a problem is a gift for the heart. My wish is for this gift of sharing always
be given from the heart.
My gift is what I learned about wiring the little Ford 850 tractor.
Thank you for your kindness in sharing

 

[stefanoworx]

You asked for a picture of my tractor so others could learn from my experience with it.
The most valued experience I have learned is 鉄haring ideas? the willingness too
help a stranger with a problem is a gift for the heart. My wish is for this gift of sharing always
be given from the heart.
My gift is what I learned about wiring the little Ford 850 tractor.
Thank you for your kindness in sharing

I am having issues with my 850 ford and have a few questions about the diagram, is the coil a 12 volt coil? Is the solenoid still 6 Volt? Is the resistor the 100 ohm ceramic? Thanks very much.

 

[Soundguy]

probably starting your own thread and asking questions would get you more results.. however.. lets try to sort out your issues.

Forget the words 100 ohm resistor. there aren't any of those on any ford tractor ignition systems.

If you are on a 6v system on an 850, then use a 6v coil. if on a 12v system on an 850, use a 12v coil. napa ic145sb.

no resistors.

the 6v oem solenoid on an 850 works fine with 12v.

 

[stefanoworx]

Thanks so much for getting back to me.

My tractor seems to be burning points/condensers and dies on me after only a few hours of mowing. I refiled the points and changed the condenser and I was back in business. Then it did it again. This time I played with the connection through the distributor thinking perhaps its shorting out. Should the points look burned after 2 or 3 hours of mowing?

And the tractor "runs on" but is running backwards after I turn off the key. I just bought this thing and hope I did not get a lemon. I have to use the brake to get it to stop.

Thanks for any wisdom, perhaps its not electrical, sign me confused.

Joe

 

[Soundguy]

Oh its electrical, plus...

1, you are all over the place with your guesses... Yr to narrow each problem and solve with a needle, not a shotgun approach.

Condensers really don't 'burn up'. A condenser can short or open.

Short = no spark, open = burnt points.

Condensers rarely fail.

Incorrectly gapped points, oily and dirty points, and filed points are the largest cause of failure of points. Filing them removes the shallow hard surface wear coating and gets you into soft base metal that will pit and corrode faster, even with normal use. Too short a gap will make them arc, burning and pitting them.. Failure to lube the rubbing block will make it wear fast, thus shortening the gap. Getting lube, grease or oil on the points will cause them to burn.

Too much primary current will over heat, and burn points and deform plastic rubbing blocks.

If on 12 v, use a Napa ic14sb coil, and no resistors.

Don't buy 5$ cheap points.

Use a clean gap tool.

Use the correct heat range plug

Set timing correct

Don't run too rich or lean.

Idle down before shutoff.

Lean makes heat

Plug range, timing and lean can lead to your shutdown run on and backfire problems.