Popped the high pressure side of the metal external hydraulic line while bush hogging last week. $275 seems a bit steep for a tube. Has anyone successfully used a more modern set of lines in place of the metal in this application? This is a working tractor, so I'm not too worried about keeping it all original.
54' NAA broken external hydraulic line
- Thread starter fnirish
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Soundguy
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this is an easy fix.
braze the hole up.. cut and scab a new piece of tube in. cut and scab hoses in. etc. tractor won't know or care.
braze the hole up.. cut and scab a new piece of tube in. cut and scab hoses in. etc. tractor won't know or care.
Should I be concerned about how much pressure is carried by the high side line? I'm not sure what kind of metal those lines are made of.
Soundguy
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they are thin steel tubing.
silver solder or brazing of the fittings is mor ethan fine.
agg application hyds run usually 2500 PSI or less.. and a NAA is more like 1700 or so.
even a 1 wire hyd hose will handle the pressure.. and a brazed patch should do fine. they even make compression hyd fittings that you could splice in a new piece of line with.
your call. there are a dozen good ways to fix that .
silver solder or brazing of the fittings is mor ethan fine.
agg application hyds run usually 2500 PSI or less.. and a NAA is more like 1700 or so.
even a 1 wire hyd hose will handle the pressure.. and a brazed patch should do fine. they even make compression hyd fittings that you could splice in a new piece of line with.
your call. there are a dozen good ways to fix that .
DJ54
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I have heard tell of buffing the area of the leak nice & bright, then wrapping tightly, so there is no gap with a fine mechanics wire, or even like a .025 mig wire, although pretty stiff to work with. Start and wrap a good 1/2"-3/4" either side of the hole, clamp it, then silver solder it.
Many commercial airliners flying over head with that type of repair on their hydraulics.
Many commercial airliners flying over head with that type of repair on their hydraulics.
After removing the lines (both have to come off at once) I have decided that the leak actually srpung from what looks like a seam which runs the length od the line. I think brazing will be the way to go, and I'm going to let a pro do it. I also like the idea of the wire wrap suggested by DJ54 and will get my experts opinion on it. It became obivous after removal that there would be a lot more involved if I tried to "upgrade to a more modern rubber type set of lines. The ends of the line are flanged into the connector bracket that secures it to the pump and the sump. Upgrading would require tapping and threading the connectors on both ends and then I would have had to make brackets of some kind to keep the lines close the the case. I'll let you know how the brazing comes out. Soundguy, thanks again for your input - you got a lotta knowledge stored in that head.
Soundguy
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Actually upgrading to soft is much much easier than you suggest. 1 option is to use hyd rated compression fittings, yes they do exist, cutting the middle out, adding 2 hoses and 4 ends does it, option 2 is to cut lines and weld or braze on common fittings to use, have done both, my preference is your repair option, simple braze up the existing hard line ... And is what I reccomend.
good luck
good luck
Well, after recovering from a relatively minor but painful back injury, I finally managed to get the external lines off of the NAA. Found the hole in the line easily, and have now delivered the part to my resident metal expert. Turns out the lines are copper. He seems confident that the repair will be simple and permanent. Should have it back this afternoon.
One thing I noticed when I removed the line(s) from the tractor - it didn't appear that there were gaskets between the line mounts and the pump nor on the line mounts and the sump. Does that seem right? There didn't seem to be any issues seperating the mounts from the tractor once the bolts were removed but I really would have expected to have seen some type of gaskets there. Don't see any in any of the parts diagrams I have found.
One thing I noticed when I removed the line(s) from the tractor - it didn't appear that there were gaskets between the line mounts and the pump nor on the line mounts and the sump. Does that seem right? There didn't seem to be any issues seperating the mounts from the tractor once the bolts were removed but I really would have expected to have seen some type of gaskets there. Don't see any in any of the parts diagrams I have found.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
orings
4 of them.
larger are intake and suction
2 at the pump are:
86629540 and 134372
2 at the center housing flange are:
86553262 and 14457281
I'd wager someone has already been at those lines before you..
ps.. i'mnot sure what diagrams you have been looking at.. but they were the wrong ones if they did not show the plumbing manifold and orings..
Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.
naa, hyd pump
lower portion of the drawing shows the naa lines
4 of them.
larger are intake and suction
2 at the pump are:
86629540 and 134372
2 at the center housing flange are:
86553262 and 14457281
I'd wager someone has already been at those lines before you..
ps.. i'mnot sure what diagrams you have been looking at.. but they were the wrong ones if they did not show the plumbing manifold and orings..
Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.
naa, hyd pump
lower portion of the drawing shows the naa lines
Well that makes sense. I didn't think to look in the tractor side of the holes to see if there were o-rings. I'll be ordering those shortly. Unless I can find them locally (not likely) I guess I'm fishing this weekend instead of mowing. Thanks again Soundguy.