need help/advise on 8n hydrolics lifting slow

[rjhans53]

I just took ownership of a old 8n that seems to be in overall pretty decent shape, well sort of
Got it home and took if for a spin, I got about 3 blocks and it quit. That I'm pretty sure is crud in the gas tank blocking the flow, when I took the line apart and blew back into the tank, the tractor starts and runs like a champ
So step 1 on is to flush the tank, lucky it only has about a gal of gas in it.
The 3 pt hitch is SLOW to raise (it does raise though) and motor needs to be about 1/3 throttle to lift and it's still slow. It seems to hold and not bleed down and drops down very quickly when I put the lever down. Is this the way it's suppose to be. Oil looks good, not milky at all, level of oil is good and the guy said he used the correct weight mineral oil so any one have any ideas
Thanks
Ron

 

[8N Ren]

What's on the 3pt when you're raising it, nothing or something like a 5-600lb box blade? Most people nowadays are using TDH fluid that has the Ford rating.

 

[rjhans53]

it's a small 4' box blade, maybe 150-200 lb

 

[Soundguy]

pull the dipstick inspection port, rase that blade and look in there with a flashlight to see if there is a stream of oil coming out the cyl mouth.

the belly pump is about 2.85gpm with engine screaming. less volume with less rpm.

If it has any leaks.. those leaks detract from pump output.

say you are running at rpm to give you 1.5gpm output.. and have a 1.25 gpm leak.. that's .25gpm left to raise the cyl!!

classic leaks are from cyl mouth, pinholed standpipe, top or bottom gaskets, pump chambers gaskets, chamber plugs and the relief valve.

post back

 

[rjhans53]

Sound guy thanks I'll do that, I took the box blade off, neighbor wanted a spot knocked down so I put it on the iseki and helped him out, but anyway with nothing on it, it raises at about the speed I was expecting it to with the engine running fast idle. Oh and now the steering box is messed up, dang it all I was hoping this wasn't going to be another money pit.

 

[Soundguy]

What's wrong withe the steering box? There is an early with round covers and a late with oval covers, both rebuildable, later more desirable due to backlash adjustment method.

both easy to rebuild

 

[rjhans53]

I was taking the old girl out for a test run, and the right front wheel started to wobble bad (4 gear 1/2 throttle) Slowed down to 2nd 1/2 throttle and brought her home. I can take that wheel and wiggle it and the wheel does move (well it does but not the 1st 1/2 or so of wiggle) the left seems tight and if I move it at all the wheel moves immediately

 

[Soundguy]

you need to decide if the hub is loose on the axle and or if there is steering backlash at the sector gears and ballnut.

 

[rjhans53]

Soundguy I'm not sure what you are saying. I lift the front end and the left wheel moves the steering wheel when I move the wheel, the right, the arm moves and everything back to the spindle on the steering box moves and seems tight but the steering wheel doesn't start to move until I turn the wheel 10 degrees or so

 

[Soundguy]

ideally, everything would be a good lockup. ie. when you move the steering wheel, both tires turn. if there is rotational play in the steering wheel before one or more tires turn. that play / degree fo motion, is slop.

some of it could be sector backlash, some could be hub play, some could be tie rod end play.

you have to find the slop and correct it.

start with the hub / axle bearings.