8N that I thought was a 2N

[Eyecatcher]

I started a previous thread that I named "my new 2N". That became confusing, because it is an 8n, possibly a 2n motor (by SN - hard to read). So let me start over!. Soundguy, I appreciate you setting me straight on the meter thing, it never dawned on me that the digital sampling rate was the problem. I purchased an economical, yet rather nice analogue multimeter on e-bay, and am quite please with it, however only one of the resistance scales work - I'm sure the vendor will exchange it. It did however work great on the old ford with no meter bounce. This old tractor had all kinds of melted insulation wiring, I'd say about every wire on it was bad. It had the alternator conversion with a single wire Delco unit. It still had stickers on it being a rebuilt, but of course it didn't work. We have a very good local starter/generator shop who had rblt the starter, so I took it to him, and he replaced the diode pack and VR. I have the same alternator on my old case backhoe, and I don't like the 2000 rpm before it starts to charge, so I had him convert this back to a 3 wire, and it charges great. Didn't get a gas tank with it, so rigged up a plastic 2gal lawn mower tank for temp. Rear wheels are set for minimum width, so the valve stems are inside. One of them has a bad stem, so my next task is to switch tires side to side and get the stems on the outside so I can work on them.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Subscribed.

 

[Soundguy]

Cool deal. Yup, an analog, even a cheapy, is usually better than any consumer grade digital meter, especially autorangers, when working on anything with breaker contacts.

On the 3 wire, are you using a lamp bulb in 1 to excite, or a diode or separate switch? Don't matter as ling as it works. Remember to jump 2 to bat stud.

Got to love the lawnmower tanks. My 850 has a leaky tank valve and u till I fix it I have a 1g tank on it! Moves hay just fine, just have to fill up every hour or so!

 

[Eyecatcher]

Now I need some instruction on how to adjust the clutch. I bought the manuals, but it shows the 2n-9n and then the early 8n, and states that the later 8n has a clevis adjustment. Mine doesn't engage until it's right at the top. I don't have the set screw type of adjustment, so assume It must be clevis. Do I adjust that for 3/4 inch clearance?

 

[Eyecatcher]

By the way, I do have the diode installed to keep the alternator from powering the ignition. Don't have an ammeter or a voltmeter yet, but according to the multimeter, I'm putting out 14V from the alternator, however, something is running my battery down overnight. I've removed the positive battery cable and inserted the multimeter in series between it and the positive batt3ery post, and I read nothing on the current scales. - still looking.

 

[Soundguy]

If that bat is running down, make sure you don't have 1 & 2 reversed at the alt.

Set pedal height with the clevis and rod if that is the style you have

On the mater, many times amp scales require the red probe to be put in a different input on the meter

 

[Eyecatcher]

Discovered I had a bad battery, so that problems solved. I contacted the seller on the multimeter, and he refunded my money. No idea if he wants it back or whatever. I replaced the water pump, and that solved all my bearing noise problems, hard to believe a water pump can make all that noise! Shopping for a radiator shroud. My son is a welder fabricator, and is going to build me a fuel tank. Pulled the rear wheels today, and both sets of brakes are oil soaked, so time for seals and shoes. I had shoes relined over in Daytona Bch for one of my old Yanmars real cheap, but can't remember where that was. Can't see $50+ for a set of rebonded shoes. If anyone knows of a local rebuilder, let me know. I did finally took some pix today, I'll try to upload them.

 

[Eyecatcher]

The parts
manual, and what I'm seeing as I clean everything up in the parts washer, leaves me a little confused! Looks like an inner seal, an outer seal, and felt gasket on each rear axle. Are there some P/Ns I can go to Miller Bearing on this, or do I have to deal with the after market guys?

 

[Soundguy]

miller MIGHT be able to cross the 8n numbers for you. but i wouldn't hold my breath. I tried them for steering bearings and they got me the wrong bearing 3 times!

I also would not mess with rebuilding the shoes. get new ones, and there will be no wear on the probably 60 year old plates.

the early and mid 8n had 1 seal, late units had 2 seals.

 

[Eyecatcher]

I ordered new shoes, 4-9N4130 gaskets, 2-8N4284 felt gaskets & the A8NN-4248-A which includes 2 ea of the retainer/seal assy, and cork gaskets. Hope this is all I need. The guy @ ford8n.com seemed to think it was. Big problem here is I don't know what year it is. 2N engine, 4 spd & draft control, but no proof meter. As you can see, axles both leaked pretty bad and shoes were soaked. I've heard that these tractors were prone to axle leaks, and that you could use some silicone in assembly that would cure that. Anyone know anything about that?