?? NAA Lift Arm Pivot Stud in axle housing spinning

[tmajor]

I wanted to remove my right lift arm from my NAA, but find that the mounting stud for the lift arm, in the axle housing, just spins in the housing .... In other words, I can't remove the nut securing the lift arm. How is that stud secured to the axle housing? It looks like there is a shoulder on the stud, which also spins.

I can possibly remove the nut with heat, but I'm not sure how to correct the "spinning stud". ... weld? Maybe, drill and pin it?

 

[Soundguy]

Or buy the service manual so you'd know how to correctly fix it vs rube goldberg-ing it with weld or a pin

Remove left , support tractor, dran sumps, remove left axle trumpet, axle, hub brake and all as an assy, cherry picker likely needed, check the nut and cotter pin on that side, lift out chunk, do right side. If it spun it may have wallowed the hole. If pin and hole not bad, clean with brake cleaner, mix kb weld and apply to pin and hole, right stuff rtv stuff works too. The jb or caulk is only there to fill voids from wear, not mechanical stability. Re nut, torque, cotter pin and replace chunk, an then shim/gasket and left axle assy.

Try, you could just pull the right and do right, but its only a hair more work to pull left and reach thru and do both. Chunk only comes out left. So right alone or left for both. I'd do both, so I could at lest check right. Would hate to see you do right then have left spin and leak. Doing left,bid take it down and clean and seal too, to be double sure of no leaks down the line. Jb or that black thick 'right stuff' would be my choice, though black or red rtv would work just to take space up in a shouldered tapers pin seat.

 

[tmajor]

@Soundguy ... So, are you saying that the stud for the lift arm, is a tapered fit, with a nut and cotter pin on the inside of the axle housing?

Edit: Yep, I looked in the shop manual, even though, it isn't much, It does show the break down of the rear axle, including the "draft link pivot pin".

Thanks sound guy!

 

[tmajor]

Yep, there she is!

 

[Soundguy]

Remember to replace the shims/ gaskets you took off that trumpet, goop is not an alternative. The shims set clearance on the axles

 

[tmajor]

Here is another little project, which I got into, as I was delving into the right axle/brakes. The right brake was grabbing and I knew I had an oil leak on the right, where the axle housing mates with the center housing. But, at the same time, the brake dust cover, inner edge, had gotten pretty well chewed up ... about 2/3s of the inner edge was missing. It had been a long time since the felt had been in the perimeter groove.

It will work or it won't! ?? Yes, I'll give it a coat of paint.

 

[Soundguy]

Might be better than original!

 

[tmajor]

Now, I've got a new problem. I'm at the point of reassembly, but .... the right brake drum seems to be too deep or something. If I slip the drum on, it extends inward, beyond the dust shied, back side, which I repaired in my last post. It's like, the axle and hub aren't sticking out far enough or the drum is too deep, or ?????. I measured the depth of the drum and it measures about 4-5/8" deep. Anybody have an 8N or NAA drum sitting around to measure? Also, I'm looking on the drum for a part number, but don't see any sign of one ... it could be under the paint, but don't know in what area to look.



Also, the inside is scored, where it's been rubbing on the dust shield and the brake backing plate (where I repaired). If I insert thick 1/2" washers on the hub studs, it looks about right, when I slide the drum on. ?? The wrong drum, would seem most plausible.

 

[tmajor]

I broke down and pulled the left wheel .... both drums are the same! In talking to John Smith of Smith's Old Ford Tractors, it appears that the axle is probably worn, allowing the hub to go on too far, which makes sense, even though the spline on the axle looks OK. ?? The axle nut leaves more threads showing than the left, when screwed on, but the axle spline isn't beyond the hub flange. ??

 

[Soundguy]

Yup, I just replied via pm asking about axle to hub fit. My guess one or both excessively worn. Makes hub fit inward too far, also likely can't torque nut to shoulder correct.

The redneck fix I to cut paper band in straps and shim the splines from hub to axle, torque nut, run, and keep checking for a week.

Booger fix but does work