new to me 1969 Ford 3000

[CR172]

So yesterday I was installing a Pat's Easy Change..... (more on that later).... after the install it was time to move the shredder to a better spot for parking purposes. So the tractor is idling away while I'm hooking up the mower and all of a sudden out of the blue the dang thing starts missing and sputtering. I shut it off and checked the plug wires, etc. I did manage to replace the rotor and dist. cap but didn't around to the points. I was running out of daylight. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. This is a basic 3 cyl gas engine w/points & a dist. cap. Is it the condenser? There's just not that much to the ignition on this. I know how this thing is capable of running. Would it be worthwhile to put in a new coil and change out to an electronic system?

 

[MMagis]

Are you sure it’s an electrical problem? Points and condenser are cheap enough, it makes sense to go ahead and replace them. I chased a very similar problem once, ended up changing everything, points, condenser, rotor, plugs, wires, etc…. It would run fine for a while, then start spitting/sputtering and dying on me. Even though sediment bowl always had gas, I finally pulled the petcock and found a gob of wasps. End of problems.

 

[ch1ch2]

Thanks Richard. It runs good, but I have everything on hand to give it a good tune-up, replacing the muffler and adding a rain cap, (I will forget to put the can over the stack), changing all drive fluids,(I checked the anti-freeze the other day and it's good to -7* and clean) and just generally going over it to get it ready for some mowing. Found a place that is closing the doors and has new Land Pride shredders for cost. I can get a new one for about 150 more than what I was looking at used. And with a slip clutch to boot.

Let the rest of us Texans in on the good deal.
Where is he located.

 

[Soundguy]

Check spark, quit guessing.

If spark is good, move on to fuel.

 

[TomSeller]

Those Fords are some of the best lookng tractors ever made IMHO. Good quality too. Once you get the rough running figured out and your gauge display updated, you will enjoy it for many years. Yours is in good condition.

 

[CR172]

So here's a new one. ? Is it best to keep all questions concerning this tractor in this thread, or start new ones? Anyway, I was looking at replacing the steering wheel..... Under the cap, there was no nut..... There were the remains of what looked like a cotter pin. I pulled that out sprayed it with PB blaster and tried to get it off. No luck, yet. Anyway, looking at the steering shaft, the threads are all f***ed up. How hard is it to replace the steering shaft or should I just bite the bullet and replace the whole steering gear assembly?

Still working on the sputtering. This thing called work gets in the way..... This one has a Holley carb on it if that makes a difference.

 

[CR172]

Let the rest of us Texans in on the good deal.
Where is he located.

Wichita Falls. Construction AG Equipment

 

[Soundguy]

So here's a new one. ? Is it best to keep all questions concerning this tractor in this thread, or start new ones? Anyway, I was looking at replacing the steering wheel..... Under the cap, there was no nut..... There were the remains of what looked like a cotter pin. I pulled that out sprayed it with PB blaster and tried to get it off. No luck, yet. Anyway, looking at the steering shaft, the threads are all f***ed up. How hard is it to replace the steering shaft or should I just bite the bullet and replace the whole steering gear assembly?

Still working on the sputtering. This thing called work gets in the way..... This one has a Holley carb on it if that makes a difference.

steering gearbox for that machine if manual, will run you a few hundred bucks, if power, a few hundred more!

if it was me, i'd try to save it. I have had to cut wheel hubs to get them off shafts, though not often. the splines sometimes rust up. when you put the new one on, clean it up and put never seize on it.

a die grinder or angle grinder can be used to split the hub 96% then use a chissle to pop it open and off the shaft.

 

[MMagis]

I had a b#@%! Of a time getting the wheel off the one time I had to do it. I remember a lot of soaking and a lot of pounding. I’d split it like Soundguy said before replacing anything. Tearing the steering column apart is more work/money than it’s worth just to make it easier to get the steering wheel off on the rare occasion you need to. That’s why the last person didn’t mess with it. Once you get the cap back on, you’ll forget all about it.

 

[CR172]

To both Soundguy & MMagis. I guess I didn't make myself clear. When I removed the 'cover' on the steering wheel, there was no nut. Just a bit of rusted away cotter pin and the exposed threads on the steering shaft are basically gone. The steering shaft WILL have to be replaced regardless. So, do I rebuild the entire steering gear assembly or just replace the whole thing and be done with it? I can get an entire assembly for around $450. The shaft alone will run about $100. Then you have the seals, bearings, etc to deal with.