new to me 1969 Ford 3000

   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #31  
I guess what I’m saying is you don’t actually have to replace it. As long as the splines are good, and the wheel doesn’t come off in your hand (the reason for the cotter pin) it’ll still work as needed.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I guess that is true.... I could try to chase the threads also once I get the thing off.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #33  
And speaking for myself, you'll find more critical things to spend $450 on than a new steering box. :)
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000
  • Thread Starter
#34  
And speaking for myself, you'll find more critical things to spend $450 on than a new steering box. :)

And that is the best answer yet. Thank you.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #35  
To both Soundguy & MMagis. I guess I didn't make myself clear. .

I guess I didn't make myself clear...

the nut holds the wheel to a splined section. if the splines are still good, you can make what you have work.

Or you can spend alot of money and make it work.

your call.

If you do repalce the wormshaft, you need to do the thrust bearings, sector bushings and seals.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Well crap, I lost a ball and bent the heck out of a stabilizer bar. Was backing the tractor up in the drive and the zip ties I had holding the stabilizer arm broke and down it went. Removed the arm and continued with the test drive....... ball fell out somewhere. I'm not 100% certain but I believe these lift arms are the cat 1 or 2 type with the exchangeable balls. I'll get a pic in the morning. In the mean time, any ideas one what ball and where to get it, along with the keepers? Another ? As you can tell I'm new to tractors. Used a few but never owned. Do you remove the stabilizer bars when not using an implement? Baling wire? What? How do you keep them up? I'm thinking a lower pin and clevis after this. Plus, I believe I am missing a couple of chains from the pto area to the lower arms. The 'loops' where they were connected to the lower arms are both gone.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #37  
Not sure I understand why the stabilizer was on the tractor if not being used? If its a rigid one length bar then it should be removed if not used. If its telescoping stabilizer then it should have been secured at both ends.

As for the interchangeable balls, my local tractor supply store stocks them. Try there first. If not, try local tractor dealership
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #38  
ditto on the balls.

ont he stabilizer, just lose connect them to the lift arms. bailing wire works fine..
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #39  
If just for a short period of time, I put a top link pin through the end of the stabilizer bar and lift arm to hold them together. Otherwise I remove the stabilizer bar. It is a bit of a pain when changing attachments. If I ever get a few minutes, I’ll weld some sort of hook on the lift arm to hold the stabilizer bar up while backing up.
Just a little tip I’ve found on the stabilizer bars, the cheap ones from TSC I buy tend to bend easily. Now I weld on a length of angle steel along the bar to minimize bending. I haven’t had one bend since.
 
   / new to me 1969 Ford 3000 #40  
And, not trying to spend other's money, but you might check into some telescoping stabilizers for your tractor.

My 3910 came with chains for sway control. I bought a pair of telescoping stabilizers and got rid of the chains. Life is good now. I bought them from "Cheap Tractor Parts" online. I can't remember what I paid for them but it was worth it.
 
 
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