1949 8N Wants 1/4 Choke To Run

[Bartman1959]

Just got my tractor going after very hard winter. Rebuilt carb, new plugs, and it fired right up. However, it needs about 1/4 choke to keep it running. Also, at high RPMs it starts to run ruff no matter how much or little choke. What am I missing here? I did set the points to .020, and noticed there isn't a gasket between the coil and distributor. Is that a "must have" item?
I bought this tractor a couple months before the snow hit, so I only have a few hours on it. Any and all advice on this tractor is appreciated.

 

[lennyzx11]

Pulling the choke means you are shutting off some of the air. In effect, "richening" the mixture.
So that says that probably not enough fuel is being delivered.
For me, I'd look at carb first but you state it was rebuilt.
Maybe something washed in and clogged the jet orifices?
There's a wire screen on my glass sediment bowl that gets clogged occasionally and I've heard of one on the carb inlet but never seen that.
I have a 47 2n.

 

[joefromga]

If you rebuilt the carb it's probably still got crud in it. I'd take it apart and clean it then run seafoam through it to clean it further.

Otherwise there could be an air leak between the carb and intake tube.

You can always spray carb cleaner or starting fluid around it while running to see if there's a leak.

 

[mapper]

Pulling the choke means you are shutting off some of the air. In effect, "richening" the mixture.
So that says that probably not enough fuel is being delivered.
For me, I'd look at carb first but you state it was rebuilt.
Maybe something washed in and clogged the jet orifices?
There's a wire screen on my glass sediment bowl that gets clogged occasionally and I've heard of one on the carb inlet but never seen that.
I have a 47 2n.

The carburetor screen is located in the elbow fitting where the fuel line attaches to the carburetor. You need to disconnect the fuel line the unscrew the elbow, the screen fits into the elbow it's about 1/8" in diameter and and 1" long. I had several times that it plugged up on my 8N, never had an issue with the sediment bowl screen.

 

[Bartman1959]

When I say, "I rebuilt the carb," that's a true statement. Also, it is the first carb I have ever rebuilt, so I'm not sure if everything was done right. I know there is supposed to be a carb screen at the elbow, but there wasn't one when I took the carb apart, nor in the kit. I'll take it all apart and clean it again and see what happens. The sediment bowl and screen are new as well.

 

[adventure bob]

float height?

 

[Bartman1959]

Float is at 1/4"

 

[fried1765]

Just got my tractor going after very hard winter. Rebuilt carb, new plugs, and it fired right up. However, it needs about 1/4 choke to keep it running. Also, at high RPMs it starts to run ruff no matter how much or little choke. What am I missing here? I did set the points to .020, and noticed there isn't a gasket between the coil and distributor. Is that a "must have" item?
I bought this tractor a couple months before the snow hit, so I only have a few hours on it. Any and all advice on this tractor is appreciated.

When you resolve your carburetor issues (and I know you will) here is another fix.
Go on Amazon, or E-Bay, and buy yourself Pertronix kit 1244AP6.
That is an electronic (6V) ignition kit.
You can throw your points away!
You WILL LOVE electronic ignition, and it fits right inside your current distributor cap.

 

[Bartman1959]

I took the carb apart and found some crud in it. Cleaned out the carb and reassembled. I checked the sediment bowl, and it had crud and NO screen. I cleaned out the crud and put a screen in. Now the tractor fires right up and runs great. Since there was no screen where the fuel line connects to the carb, and the sediment bowl had crud, I'm thinking about a glass inline fuel filter just to be safe.

My next job on it tomorrow is draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid/oil; it got water in it over the winter.

 

[Bartman1959]

fried1765, thanks for the confidence and the advice on the Pertronix.