Pressure washer, serviceable parts?

[J_J]

I agree with RANDYT , clean or replace the unloader valve itself or parts necessary

For those that don't know, the pressure/psi developed is determined by the nozzle utilized.

You probably will never see the advertised pressure while using the pressure washer. If you don't believe that, insert a 3000/3500 pressure gage in series with the hose going to the gun.

The advertised pressure is the pressure developed by the pump and the restriction used, IE, the nozzle opening, or the unloading pressure, which can be adjusted by a screw and spring. .

After the pump is running, the unloader is closed until you release the trigger on the gun. It will recycle the water into the input and you will notice the water will get warm if done long enough.

If the unloader is rusted or frozen, you could blow the pump, hose or gun, or the engine would just shut off.

One way to check the unloader is to start the PW with the trigger pulled on the gun. The engine will start and pump, but as soon as you release the trigger, the engine tries to or will shut down.

I have 4 pressure washers and have been using them for about 20 years, observing some of the problems stated. They are all Honda driven.

A 13 HP engine can pump 6.5 GPM at about 3000 psi.

A 2 HP engine can pump 2 GPM at about 1500 psi.

 

[JimRB]

I replaced my cheap pump with an expensive (sort of) pump with a three year warranty. The pump shop said to bring it back when I have it reassembled so they can adjust the max PSI based on my engine size. I gather the pump can go higher on the PSI but the engine does not have the umph to work that hard. I could be recalling incorrectly but ...

 

[deepNdirt]

I agree with RANDYT , clean or replace the unloader valve itself or parts necessary

For those that don't know, the pressure/psi developed is determined by the nozzle utilized.

You probably will never see the advertised pressure while using the pressure washer. If you don't believe that, insert a 3000/3500 pressure gage in series with the hose going to the gun.

The advertised pressure is the pressure developed by the pump and the restriction used, IE, the nozzle opening, or the unloading pressure, which can be adjusted by a screw and spring. .

After the pump is running, the unloader is closed until you release the trigger on the gun. It will recycle the water into the input and you will notice the water will get warm is done long enough.

If the unloader is rusted or frozen, you could blow the pump, hose or gun, or the engine would just shut off.

One way to check the unloader is to start the PW with the trigger pulled on the gun. The engine will start and pump, but as soon as you release the trigger, the engine tries to or will shut down.

I have 4 pressure washers and have been using them for about 20 years, observing some of the problems stated. They are all Honda driven.

A 13 HP engine can pump 6.5 GPM at about 3000 psi.

A 2 HP engine can pump 2 GPM at about 1500 psi.

This explains why I see so many variations of HP,PSI,& GPM on many of the different makes I been looking at,
Some I see has Higher HP while has less Psi, some has Higher Gmp than hp ratings, etc,etc,
My Karcher is 5.0 Hp, 2400 psi, with a delivery of 2.5 Gpm, I have seen some pressure washers showing 6.0 Hp. with 2200 psi and 2.4 gpm,....
So in a sense it starts at the Pump an engine is added with the correct Hp to match the max Gpm's the pump can produce,
As I stated, when I took the unloader out I found the lower O-ring to be chewed up, Though nothing appeared to be corroded as I might had thought, but I shot some pen oil down in the hole just in case, I also wiped off the small plunger or piston that I put the new O-ring onto, as I was examining it I noticed what look to be threads in behind the small spring, the two ends of this plunger seem to be thread together holding the spring around it, Out of curiosity would this happen to be where the pressure is adjusted? By threading this part either in or out?
Thanks

 

[J_J]

The adjusting spring nut should be readily available.

If you install a gage in the OUT port, and plug the hose into the gage assembly, you can see the operating pressure anytime the pump is running.

If you have a 3000 psi unit, and the trigger is off, the pressure should be relieving at about 3000 psi.

As soon as you pull the trigger to spray, the pressure will decline and remain fairly constant as long as the trigger is pulled.

The smaller the orifice on the tip, the closer you will get to the max pressure.

Notice the pressure when you are using the bleach nozzle. Very low.

A lot of people brag about their pressure washer, but they just don't know the facts.

Another smart fact for those that use the turbo nozzles, always aim the lance down before you pull the trigger. If you don't, you slam the ceramic element against the brass head and could damage it.

 

[deepNdirt]

The adjusting spring nut should be readily available.

If you install a gage in the OUT port, and plug the hose into the gage assembly, you can see the operating pressure anytime the pump is running.

If you have a 3000 psi unit, and the trigger is off, the pressure should be relieving at about 3000 psi.

As soon as you pull the trigger to spray, the pressure will decline and remain fairly constant as long as the trigger is pulled.

The smaller the orifice on the tip, the closer you will get to the max pressure.

Notice the pressure when you are using the bleach nozzle. Very low.

A lot of people brag about their pressure washer, but they just don't know the facts.

Another smart fact for those that use the turbo nozzles, always aim the lance down before you pull the trigger. If you don't, you slam the ceramic element against the brass head and could damage it.

Again! another great explanation, I just so happen to have one of those dirt buster rotary nozzle heads, the one that looks about the size of a hand granade, It has always work good, but the last time trying to us it, it would not spin inside, I noticed it had aaparto take it appart, so I did just that and found a plastic part inside that look to have small round ball bearings on each end with holes in them, The plastic part sidewalls were joined only by a small amount of material, one apartad broken appart and must be the reason why it no longer spins, It puzzled me as to why it had broken, Buexplanationyour explination I think I done just as you mention not to do, actually while it was when I was having to remove the tips to give thinstallrt and re-instal in order to get the pressure bacIncidentallyain,
Insodently: I priced a new dirt buster and one will cost 59.00 up, I had no idea was such expensive part, Does anyone know if that small plastic part inside the dirt buster head can be purchased?
thanks

 

[deepNdirt]

Does anyone know about this product? ( all power ) I guess because I've been doing research on pressure washer, and also because I search Tiger direct electronics, This product pop-up on their site for me to see..... the pressure washer specs look decent 3200 psi / 2.7 gpm, No engine brand or size given, only that it is a 208cc , even though the price of 299.00 is the winner , Not ever heard of the name brand, or could I find any review on it, Could this be another one of them China built stuff ?

 

[J_J]

At 25 cc per HP, that would equate to about 8.32 HP. They usually de-tune the engines for longivity.

Also, a pump pumping about 2.7 GPM's at 3200 psi would require at least a 6 HP motor.

CC TO HP conversion table

 

[J_J]

deepNdirt ,

Some of the turbo nozzles have rebuild kits.

Go to Ebay and type in turbo nozzle. They list a bunch of them.

This is a good Pressure Washer data site.

http://www.ultimatewasher.com/nozzles-size-pressure-washer.htm

 

[J_J]

Some more useful data.

The unloader is similar to a relief valve on a hyd valve. Turn it right to tighten the spring, and increased the pressure.

If you want to PW with a lower pressure, adjust the unloader by turning the nut left which will loosen the nut pressure on the spring, decreasing the pressure.

 

[deepNdirt]

Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge:thumbsup:
I cleaned up the unloader and replaced the O-rings from both pressure washer units, each now working perfectly,

I can't help but to wonder how many folks who have none working pressure washer think the pumps have went bad, In my search for a larger commercial type washer, I've noticed many ads where people have stated the pumps will needs replaced, Would a commercial pressure washer have the same type
(unloader) in the pump? what's the chance on rolling the dice, getting one of these and only having to change the O-rings as well?