Engine carbon cleaning

[agford4x4]

I have a 12hp B&S engine that runs really well. I bought it used, and when i pulled the plug, there is caked on carbon, it hasnt been changed since new in 1992. Anyway, i put a new plug in and pulled it after a few hours of use and noiticed a film of oil on it, why i don't know. The engine was owned by a guy i know who is particular about maintenance. I also have another B&S engine that is essentially brand new and it has the same thing so i dont think its a problem. At any rate, there IS caked on carbon on the valves and on the cylinder that i can see through the spark plug hole. Do you recomend pulling the head and scrubbing that off? I don't think its something that is going to be removed otherwise. I have pulled hte head on other engines to do this so its not a big deal.

[thatguy]

I understand that 'seafoam' does miracles on some items like this.. BUT like all things some say it doesnt work at all and others swear by it..

good luck

Brian

[Bird]

I had a boat motor recently that wouldn't idle and used Mercury Power Tune, by following the instructions on the can and that very promptly fixed the problem. I wonder whether it wouldn't work on Briggs & Stratton engines, too. I'm sure you can buy it at most any boat dealer that sells Mercury motors.

[art]

Years ago while working in a car dealership one of the shops lead mechanics told me that to make it easy for clean-up while rebuilding to get the engine warmed up and to hold it up about half throttle or at least enough for it not to stall and to take a spray bottle of water and spray it in the carb, I think it works great! Every engine I rebuild that I know needs it and not looking for an individual flaw it will take the carbon off and leave the parts nice and steam cleaner clean!

[coobie]

Seafoam or BG-44K products.Both are good products.coobie

[Shimon]

I've had good success with Seafoam. I keep a couple of bottles around.

[Molerj]

I would pull the head, take a wire wheel on a drill or 4 1/2" angle grinder & clean it off. Leave piston at end of travel, then back off a little to get the ridge that will be on the end of the cylinder. Should replace the head gasket & torque the bolts in the proper tightening sequence.

[caddelma]

I have had luck using Seafoam and/or Deep Creep (aeresol version) in both outboards and mowers (2 and 4 stroke).

[agford4x4]

I pulled the head. Seafoam does work pretty good. I used a can on this engine. However, it will NOT get 20+ years of carbon off the piston. I cleaned it with a wire brush, now i just have to put the head and gasket back on. I dont have a torque wrench or manual for it. Ive never needed one for small engines. I always torque everything between 'not tight enough' and 'too tight'.

I asked because i wasnt sure if it was necessary. Then last night, i decided to take the hood off, and then take the spark plug out to look.....then i took a cover off....then i figured what the ****, ill pull a bolt and see if its easy to take out....before i knew it, i had the head off and was committed.

Works for me.

[BrianW]

Years ago while working in a car dealership one of the shops lead mechanics told me that to make it easy for clean-up while rebuilding to get the engine warmed up and to hold it up about half throttle or at least enough for it not to stall and to take a spray bottle of water and spray it in the carb, I think it works great! Every engine I rebuild that I know needs it and not looking for an individual flaw it will take the carbon off and leave the parts nice and steam cleaner clean!

Back in the 70's when I was working as a mechanic there were a lot of problems with cars carboning up and fouling plugs. We used to use the water trick to fix them. Kind of like steam cleaning the interior of the engine.