So, what's the problem with Troy-Bilt tillers?

[RalphVa]

The current Troy Bilt tillers may be even better than when they were exclusively Troy Bilt. Good stuff from other designs (that MTD own) can be incorporated to fix problem spots that the Troy Bilt maybe had.

Car manufacturers do it all the time: Volvo S40 purchased from Mitsubishi and now owned by Ford, Jaguars bought by Ford, Chrysylers merged with MB (quality actually went down in MBs in this case though), etc.

My Troy Bilt chipper/shredder was not equal in quality to McKissic ones. If these two combined, they could make a really good product; I'd think.

Ralph

 

[Dargo]

Is this the model you bought? And you say the times can rotate forward OR reverse? That sounds very cool - I wish mine could do that. The tines on mine only operate in the opposite direction from the wheels.

http://www.cubcadet.com/wcsstore/pics/CubCadet/21AB455C710_prod_lg.jpghttp://www.cubcadet.com/wcsstore/pics/CubCadet/21AB455C710_prod_lg.jpg

It looks like about the same HP as the troybilt I bought, but the tires look wider. Maybe that makes a difference. All I know is that in loose soil, the troybilt CRT builds up debris between the tines and the wheels and you have to constantly help it forward. It really is pretty good when breaking up sod, but after that, it is the worst.

Yup, that's the exact tiller I bought. I think the difference may be that the tires are taller, and maybe wider. I actually went back and forth between Lowes, who had Troy Built, and Home Depot, who had the Cub. Again, I don't know squat about tillers, so take that in mind, but I was thinking that tractors with taller tires seem to pull better than tractors with shorter tires, so maybe tillers would be the same? Many years ago I got really embarrassed when I actually tied up a JD 650 4X4 tractor, tail to tail, with my FIL's old 8N and had a tug of war. We had about the same hp, but I had 4X4, so I just knew I'd win. As you have already figured, he dragged me away with his stupid old tractor. (I've since bought bigger tractors )

I wonder if you could try taller tires on yours? Maybe I'm all wrong too. Oh well, maybe I ended up just getting lucky (thanks to Knight9's suggestion) with the Cub? Oh yeah, the tines do turn forward and reverse on that Cub.

 

[Knight9]

I think one of the differences between the tillers (Troybuilt & Cub Cadet) as far as traction goes is not just the tire size and tread, but also the very large weight on the front of the Cub. It is a very heavy weight and really seems to aid in the traction. I've had my cub in some pretty deep soil on some inclines and never lost traction.

Couple of things about the Cub that I will say, however. Dargo is quite correct in that running this with the tine rotation forward resulted in me running forward Reverse rotation seems to be much more manageable for me. Also, I agree on the turning thing. Especially with the added weight on the front, turning at the end of the rows can be challenging. However, I do take the easy route and use the power reverse.

 

[Savagepike]

I have to say that I own a 30yo(1977) model TB horse and just replaced the engine last year (even though the original was still running). I figured it was about that time. I've compared it to the newer models offered by TB and although less ergonomic than modern TBs, I'd still use my 30yo horse if I had the choice. Much heavier-duty. The thing is a beast and has NEVER let me down. As long as I kept it out of the weather and sprayed some PB Blaster on the moving/adjustable parts, the tiller could not have performed better IMHO.

 

[slowrev]

I have a 71 vintage horse. Love it. has a cast iron Tecumseh engine on it runs great. Has lots of weight and pulls itself along good.

 

[bontai_Joe]

There is an easy technique to turning a Troy Tiller around at the end of the row instead of wrestling with it. As you are walking alongside holding the near handle bar with one hand, you raise that handle bar and push sideways away from you to get the tiller up on the far wheel. Now grab the near handle with the other hand and the far handle with the first hand and pivot the tiller on the single wheel touching the ground. All this is done with it in gear running. It's a little like dancing with a large woman, but once you learn it, you can guide the tiller very well with never really using a lot of strength. If the right wheel is the pivot wheel then it's easy to go left, the left wheel pivots to go right.

 

[ChuckinNH]

My old Troy Built EconoHorse has been a good tiller. I've found that with forward rotating tines, it is very important to adjust the tiller to a very shallow cut for the first pass, or two in sod. Once the tines have some dirt to work in, you can set the cut deeper, and the tiller won't run away from you.

 

[LBrown59]

The MTD Connection

 

[LBrown59]

They're not Troy Built anymore.

.....

 

[milkman]

I have to say that I own a 30yo(1977) model TB horse and just replaced the engine last year (even though the original was still running). I figured it was about that time. I've compared it to the newer models offered by TB and although less ergonomic than modern TBs, I'd still use my 30yo horse if I had the choice. Much heavier-duty. The thing is a beast and has NEVER let me down. As long as I kept it out of the weather and sprayed some PB Blaster on the moving/adjustable parts, the tiller could not have performed better IMHO.

Those were the real workhorses and the ones made by MTD won't compare to those. They had one purpose, tilling and they did that well, I used one for two years before I bought my BCS to garden and mow with, I don't think they make the cast iron horse any more, sure is a loss if they don't.