Drive belt routing - Murray

[Gerifalte]

Hello all,

I have a 2002 Murray lawn tractor (model number 465622x99A, Badged "Ranch King Elite", 46" cut, 18HP) and the drive belt snapped a few weeks ago. The model is not quite the same, but the looks are very similar to this one Murray, Inc.

I bought a replacement belt but when I got under to install it I noticed there is a difference between the routing diagrams in the manual that came with the mower, and what is actually in the mower! My manual shows a routing where the belt comes from the stack pulley, then connects a V-idler pulley, and then connects to a Rear-idler pulley that regulates the tension on the drive pulley. However, mine has a an idler-assembly that looks entirely different, since the flat-idler is first, and then the v-idler, which causes the belt to rub wit a metal bar. The picture below shows the parts and the current routing



I tried rotating the idler arm but it doesn't work. I also tried to swap the pulleys, but they are different diameters and don't fit the arm. What am I missing?

Thanks!

G

 

[aczlan]

I tried rotating the idler arm but it doesn't work. I also tried to swap the pulleys, but they are different diameters and don't fit the arm. What am I missing?

does the tensitioner make the belt tight when the deck in in "On"??? I would guess that when the deck is "on" the idler pullies will rotate enough that the belt will clear the shaft it is currently rubbing on.


if not, can you take a picture with the deck in "on" position and post it???


Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[frank29]

It's hard to tell from the picture; but, it looks like there was already a rubbing problem?

 

[Gerifalte]

thanks for your replies.

- aczlan, the belt tightens whenever the brake is not pressed; deck on or off. The pictures show it with the brake pressed. When the clutch is engaged the rod in the picture below pushes back, tensioning the belt





- frank29, I can't tell whether the rubbing problem was there before or not, because I realized of the rubbing by the noise the belt made once I run it. So, the rub marks may have been created when I run it after installing the new belt.

thanks again

G

 

[shot_gun]

The belt looks routed right. Let out the brake/clutch to tighten the belt and look to see if there is clearance between the belt and all the guides. If there is clearance the rubbing is probably from the belt "wobble" and not really a problem. Alot of machines do this not just Murry's. Usually those points are to get the belt off the pullys when the brake/clutch is engaged.

 

[NuBota]

I have a 2002 Murray as well 20HP/42" cut

Like you said, my pulleys are reversed and route the opposite of yours

What I did notice in your pic - is the idler spring removed? or missing? If it was in place if should pull the rear pulley down (in the pic) bringing the bracket closer to parallel - back to front - and possibly move the belt away from the rub point.
Not sure because you said you tried to rotate the bracket - but it just looks like the bracket is too close to 90 degrees

 

[Gerifalte]

Thanks Nubota and Shotgun,

As you suspected, the routing is right. After looking at the parts catalog here Small Engine Parts Warehouse - Parts I realized my mower is a 2001 model! Somehow they changed the belt routing starting from 2002, hence the source of my confusion. The belt was also slightly too tight so that was causing it to rub more than normal. After adding the idler spring (I didn't put it in before because I was pretty sure I was going to have to dismount the whole thing again!) and running it for a bit, the belt loosened up a touch and now the mower is working like a charm!! Thanks all for your very useful feedback!

F