DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch

   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #1  

JakeBrake

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
254
Location
Central Mississippi
Tractor
Kubota L3830
I have a 2002 DR with the 15 HP Kawasaki engine. The mower has about 600 hours on it.

The last time I mowed the clutch was obviously not working properly. That is, it would take two or three tries to engage the blade and it smoked the belt at one point. However, I was able to finish.

The next day when I tried to start the mower, the engine would not turn. It acted like a weak battery. I also have a 1996 DR with an identical battery. Only 460 hours on that mower. I swapped batteries and the engine still would not turn.

I knew the problem had to be the PTO clutch. This is a centrifugal clutch with no electricity. This will be the third time I have had to replace the clutch. I'm not too happy about that, but, otherwise, I love the mower and I have done some truly brutal brush cutting with it.

This time when I removed the clutch retaining bolt, the clutch came apart and almost fell off the engine shaft. This was a bit of good luck. The other two times the clutch failed, the engine would turn, but the clutches were rusted to the engine shaft and I had bad times removing the clutches. The engine ran perfectly after the clutch was removed.

I have ordered a new clutch from DR and I should be back in operation soon.
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #2  
Every year I get interested in the DR cutter for the tough brush and weeds down in the trees along the creek. I have a brush hog for most of the stuff, but its hard to get it in those tight spots, and also when you are working down in the creek bottoms you backup more than go forward and that gets pretty tough on the neck/back.

Sounds like you are sold, but those things sure are pricey.
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #3  
also when you are working down in the creek bottoms you backup more than go forward and that gets pretty tough on the neck/back.

Sounds like you are sold, but those things sure are pricey.

My DR is an old, old one from the pre pneumatic tire and reversing gear days. She still runs good and starts second or third pull every time with hundreds of hours on it. But, believe me, walking behind that puppy through the thick stuff can get pretty tough on the back and neck too. It's a lot harder work than their advertisements make it look.
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #4  
How hard is it to replace I can't afford to take it to the shop?
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #5  
How hard is it to replace I can't afford to take it to the shop?

Replace what? Clutch? Do you have an owner's manual with parts breakdown? Are you sure it needs a clutch?
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch
  • Thread Starter
#6  
How hard is it to replace I can't afford to take it to the shop?

I've replaced my DR blade clutch 3 times. see my previous post. I'm no mechanic. If I can do it, anyone can do it. DR has excellent technical support. They will tell you what to order and step you through the repair once you get the parts.

Tip: When you get your DR running again. NEVER!, NEVER!, NEVER! activate the blade at full engine speed. ALWAYS! ALWAY! ALWAYS! return the engine to idle before activating the blade.

My 2002 DR now has over 1,000 hours and it's well into the 2014 mowing season.
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #7  
"I've replaced my DR blade clutch 3 times. see my previous post. " OUCH! If you don't mind me asking, how much is DR clipping you on those? They've gotten me on a number of things and it's always "top dollar don't even ask for a break" sort of thing.
I'd rebuild it but it appears to be a "use and discard" type of item.
 
   / DR Field & Brush Mower PTO (blade) Clutch #8  
I've replaced my DR blade clutch 3 times. see my previous post. I'm no mechanic. If I can do it, anyone can do it. DR has excellent technical support. They will tell you what to order and step you through the repair once you get the parts.

Tip: When you get your DR running again. NEVER!, NEVER!, NEVER! activate the blade at full engine speed. ALWAYS! ALWAY! ALWAYS! return the engine to idle before activating the blade.

My 2002 DR now has over 1,000 hours and it's well into the 2014 mowing season.

Thanks for the TIP JakeBrake. I have a 2013 18HP and was not aware you should idle down...only 7 hours so far so hopefully I have not done any damage?

Haven't had too much chance to use it but this week I "cleaned" the brush edges on my field to get rid of "creeping" woods that try to take over the field. I have 80 acres...and only a couple are field so I want to keep what field I have.

I also tried out the 42" mower deck...worked fine but still struggles with the tall field weeds and grass. Will need a second pass to clean up what was laid down and not cut...plus to distribute the then dried clippings a bit better. Similar to my 42" 10 year old Sear's w/25HP and wheel weights and chains.

Not sure if anything will cut 12"-18"+ of combo grass/hay/very thick weeds, etc. If I wait until after Labor Day it is quite a bit easier as they weeds/grass drys out and cuts easier.

Last year I cut a 1/4 mile trail through brush and saplings...that was easy and fun...still, like you said...very hard work! I am 66 and not much good past about 2 hours behind the DR :)

I read the catalogs and watched the video for many years b4 I finally bought on last year. While I may not use lots of hours...the hours it works are exactly what I need. Tom R
 
 
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