RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,873
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
My Lawnboy 10323's drive belt became like a wet noodle and wouldn't drive it.
So, I got a new belt and replaced the old one.
It's quite a job, pretty much what I had to do in replacing the drive belt on my 1993+ish JD walkbehind. I had to pretty much remove the engine. The rough order of doing things is the following:
1.) Remove cover (one phillips screw) from the belt. Pull gearbox back towards the handle to detach the wire pull that rotates the gearbox to engage the belt.
2.) Remove the cage above the pulley on the gearbox. This is held by 2@ 3/16" allen screws. The one nearest the pulley broke off. The other came off fine.
3.) Remove blade.
4.) Remove backer to blade that is a square with hole in the middle that fits over a tapered part of the shaft. This thing was a bugger to get loose. Finally used an old dent puller tool. Inserted it through one of the two holes on the square and used its ram action to pull the thing off. If you don't have something like this, you may need a gear puller. Tried heating it and prying it with the claw part of a hammer. The dent puller was the deal.
5.) Remove the 4@ 3/8" (maybe 7/16"; don't remember now) bolts holding the exhaust loop in place. You can then remove the exhaust loop. It should just drop off.
6.) Remove the 2@ 1/2" bolts to each side of the exhaust loop. Remove also the 2@ 1/2" bolts holding the engine to the exhaust place. These are aluminum-to-aluminum bolts. Don't confuse them with the ones holding it to the frame.
You can finally lift the engine up enough to remove the old belt. Then put new belt on and do the reverse of the above.
I put some Goop on the cage and gearbox where the allen screw broke. Then I bought some 14" zip ties. I crisscrossed one so that it covered the cage where the allen screw was and tightened it. Gooped it there and also Gooped it on the bottom side of the gearbox to keep the zip tie away from the one wheel shaft. Think it's going to hold. Else, I'd have to replace the gearbox.
So, I got a new belt and replaced the old one.
It's quite a job, pretty much what I had to do in replacing the drive belt on my 1993+ish JD walkbehind. I had to pretty much remove the engine. The rough order of doing things is the following:
1.) Remove cover (one phillips screw) from the belt. Pull gearbox back towards the handle to detach the wire pull that rotates the gearbox to engage the belt.
2.) Remove the cage above the pulley on the gearbox. This is held by 2@ 3/16" allen screws. The one nearest the pulley broke off. The other came off fine.
3.) Remove blade.
4.) Remove backer to blade that is a square with hole in the middle that fits over a tapered part of the shaft. This thing was a bugger to get loose. Finally used an old dent puller tool. Inserted it through one of the two holes on the square and used its ram action to pull the thing off. If you don't have something like this, you may need a gear puller. Tried heating it and prying it with the claw part of a hammer. The dent puller was the deal.
5.) Remove the 4@ 3/8" (maybe 7/16"; don't remember now) bolts holding the exhaust loop in place. You can then remove the exhaust loop. It should just drop off.
6.) Remove the 2@ 1/2" bolts to each side of the exhaust loop. Remove also the 2@ 1/2" bolts holding the engine to the exhaust place. These are aluminum-to-aluminum bolts. Don't confuse them with the ones holding it to the frame.
You can finally lift the engine up enough to remove the old belt. Then put new belt on and do the reverse of the above.
I put some Goop on the cage and gearbox where the allen screw broke. Then I bought some 14" zip ties. I crisscrossed one so that it covered the cage where the allen screw was and tightened it. Gooped it there and also Gooped it on the bottom side of the gearbox to keep the zip tie away from the one wheel shaft. Think it's going to hold. Else, I'd have to replace the gearbox.