BEWARE of those "universal" blades

[JDgreen227]

Have a 2 year old Yardpro (Husqvarna) 22 inch pusher that got a new blade put on this spring. Have used it maybe 20 hours total, and the slightly loose fit of the "universal" blade wore down the two tabs on the blade mount/pully. No, I didn't hit anything that broke those tabs off. Last time I will ever buy a "universal" blade for a mower.

 

[LarryD]

I've got a Yardman (MTD?) with the same type blade mount. I usually get whatever is on the shelf at Home Depot every few years. I'll sharpen a few times but I do catch a stone or two during the season so the edge gets beat up.
I just sharpenend the blade a couple weeks ago and didn't notice any unusual problems with the blade holder. This mower is probably 6-8 years old and the original blades were beat to crap. It wouldn't start for my neighbor and despite my promise that I could get it running he went out and bought a new one. So I adjusted the grounding switch and have been using it for about 4 years.

 

[JDgreen227]

The engine on the mower I posted about is one of the Chinese Kohler 173cc's and I do wonder if the blade mount/pully was made of cheap soft metal. I do know the blade mounting bolt was very tight and there was no real vibration to tell me the blade was creeping around the mount.

 

[pacerron]

Have a 2 year old Yardpro (Husqvarna) 22 inch pusher that got a new blade put on this spring. Have used it maybe 20 hours total, and the slightly loose fit of the "universal" blade wore down the two tabs on the blade mount/pully. No, I didn't hit anything that broke those tabs off. Last time I will ever buy a "universal" blade for a mower.

Was your center bolt tight? Looks like in the picture that the bolt head washer was wider than where the pins come through the slots. Was the cheapo blade thinner at this point causing the pins to protrude through the slots a bit keeping the blade from being squeezed tight even though the bolt was tight?
Everything is being downsized these days. The ice cream I am eating right now went from a half gallon to 1.75 qt and recently to 1.5 qt. But the price keeps going up :confused2:

 

[JDgreen227]

Was your center bolt tight? Looks like in the picture that the bolt head washer was wider than where the pins come through the slots. Was the cheapo blade thinner at this point causing the pins to protrude through the slots a bit keeping the blade from being squeezed tight even though the bolt was tight?
Everything is being downsized these days. The ice cream I am eating right now went from a half gallon to 1.75 qt and recently to 1.5 qt. But the price keeps going up :confused2:

I noted that the center bolt was tight...and the pic shows the underside of the blade not the top. The pins did not protrude through the slots. The more I think about this, the more I feel it was caused because of the soft material of the pully/blade flange. That part is not steel, but cast iron.

 

[pacerron]

I noted that the center bolt was tight...and the pic shows the underside of the blade not the top. The pins did not protrude through the slots. The more I think about this, the more I feel it was caused because of the soft material of the pully/blade flange. That part is not steel, but cast iron.

So you are calling the underside of the blade the part in contact with the pully/blade flange?
The abrasion shown on the blade was causes by the pully/blade flange?
Do the slots in the blade show an impression from the pins on the side they would be against because of engine rotation? Were they smaller in diameter than the slots they fit in?
In any case, since the pully/flange is junk now unless you get a washer that is crowned so it and the bolt head together hold the blade without pins, have you considered just drilling out the sheared off pins and using bolts in their place?
Ron

 

[JDgreen227]

So you are calling the underside of the blade the part in contact with the pully/blade flange?
The abrasion shown on the blade was causes by the pully/blade flange?
Do the slots in the blade show an impression from the pins on the side they would be against because of engine rotation? Were they smaller in diameter than the slots they fit in?
In any case, since the pully/flange is junk now unless you get a washer that is crowned so it and the bolt head together hold the blade without pins, have you considered just drilling out the sheared off pins and using bolts in their place?
Ron

Correct, the shiny part of the blade was the side in contact with the pully...the slots are slightly enlarged now but were a snug fit over the pins originally. There is not enough width on the flange to drill and use any type of bolts in place of the pins. I am reluctant to just bolt a new blade on without some method to keep it from rotation. Thanks for the advice...maybe I can jury rig it somehow, just looked up the price of the part (they call it an adapter) $21 and shipping. RIPOFF. I paid $245 for the entire mower new.

 

[pacerron]

Correct, the shiny part of the blade was the side in contact with the pully...the slots are slightly enlarged now but were a snug fit over the pins originally. There is not enough width on the flange to drill and use any type of bolts in place of the pins. I am reluctant to just bolt a new blade on without some method to keep it from rotation. Thanks for the advice...maybe I can jury rig it somehow, just looked up the price of the part (they call it an adapter) $21 and shipping. RIPOFF. I paid $245 for the entire mower new.

I only listed possibilities from viewing the picture. As you know holding the part in your hand has to determine the final fix or to trash it.
Could you drill and tap the adapter where the pins were, then tighten a couple short bolts in against the blind hole (using a little locktite). Then saw the boltheads off and grind the remaining shanks down to be the proper protrusion through the slots?
Prices are unreal for replacement parts. My wife's favorite mower for mowing down over the pond edges is an old 22" push mower I paid $28 for brand new
many, many years ago. It is lightweight and still starts on the first or second pull.

 

[JDgreen227]

I only listed possibilities from viewing the picture. As you know holding the part in your hand has to determine the final fix or to trash it.
Could you drill and tap the adapter where the pins were, then tighten a couple short bolts in against the blind hole (using a little locktite). Then saw the boltheads off and grind the remaining shanks down to be the proper protrusion through the slots?
Prices are unreal for replacement parts. My wife's favorite mower for mowing down over the pond edges is an old 22" push mower I paid $28 for brand new
many, many years ago. It is lightweight and still starts on the first or second pull.

Your idea should work well about the bolts, I just came in from drilling out the original pins, gradually enlarging the holes to a tad over 1/4". I will get some of the strongest grade 1/4" bolts from TSC and use locktite on the nuts. Replacing the blade will then require removing the adapter so I can get to the hardware, but once a year...no problem. I hope this method doesn't upset the balance much...but it's worth a try.

THANK YOU very much for your input and advice on this matter. I did think about tapping the adapter, but the iron is very soft and I didn't think it would take threads well.

 

[6thgpSF]

I hate buying anything made in China.So much is made there that you do'nt have a choice.At least I know my Grasshopper is made here in Kansas and my Yanmar is made in Japan.I did buy two new front tires once for my Yanmar ,unf. they were made in China and a load of gravel blew both out on the sides first time I used them.Put the old Bridgstones back on w/no problems....russ