Best Oil For A Kawasaki Engine

[djdicetn]

I just purchased a Gravely Pro-Turn 152 XDZ mower with a commercial Kawasaki FX691V 22hp engine. I have always had Briggs & Stratton mower engines and used the SAE30 B & S oil with very good results(never had any oil leaks or consumption). A buddy of mine with a six year old Gravley 260 with the commercial FH721V 25hp Kaw engine says he ran Mobil1 10w30(non-synthetic) for the first year, then switched to Mobil1 10w30 synthetic(upon the Gravely dealer's advice). The manual on my Kaw engine states:"Using multi-grade oils(5w20,10w30 and 10w40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." so I am again inclined to use the SAE30, but not real sure. For my truck and cars I have ALWAYS run Pennzoil 10w30(again with excellent results) and I'm certain that Pennzoil has a SAE30 oil. Any advice that will help me keep this Kawasaki engine "like new" for the next decade or so?????

 

[lilranch2001]

I use a multi grade amsol synthetic, and my eXmarks 25 hp Kaw doesnt use a drop between changes
It is 11 years old and ~700 hours

 

[Carl_NH]

DJD,

It is suggested that you run a SAE30 for the first 50 hours during breakin then switch to a synthetic.

I have run SAE30 in my Cub Cadet 18HP Magnum for 22 years and change once per year - never had a problem.

On my newer Ferris 25HP FH721V I changed oil @ 10 hrs with SAE30 then again at 50 hours to Mobil 1 10-30.
Now 28 hours on Mobil 1 and all is well.

 

[djdicetn]

DJD,

It is suggested that you run a SAE30 for the first 50 hours during breakin then switch to a synthetic.

I have run SAE30 in my Cub Cadet 18HP Magnum for 22 years and change once per year - never had a problem. On my newer Ferris 25HP FH721V I changed oil @ 10 hrs with SAE30 then again at 50 hours to Mobil 1 10-30.
Now 28 hours on Mobil 1 and all is well.

Carl_NH,
That sounds like very good advice!! I was leaning towards getting the K-Tech(Kawasaki brand oil) if the dealer carries it, using the SAE30 for the initial break-in oil change at 8-10 hours(Kaw manual says 8 hours, the Gravely manual says 25 hours and the dealer mechanic recommended 10 hours) with a filter change(just to be safe in case of any break-in metal shavings). Then to err on the side of caution I was going to do another oil-only change at 25 hours per the Gravely recommendation using SAE30, and again at 50 hours with a filter change, then go to a annual oil change/every other year filter change. Upon the first "regular oil change" which I, like you, believe it should be annually(to start each season) despite the hours I was going to go with the K-Tech 10w30 Synthetic. Of course the Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic you recommended would be just as good(my father-in-law's new caddy CTS specifies it, or else you void the mfg. warranty). It may come down to how much the K-Tech synthetic costs at the dealer versus the Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart:0)
Just for grins, how do you feel about me using the Briggs & Stratton SAE30 for the first three oil changes??? I didn't realize it, but I "stocked up" when it was on sale and I have (4) 48 ounce bottles of it that I bought for the Craftsman 54" B & S engine. I have "jokingly" said that the Kawasaki might reject it like a bad liver transplant, but after all it probably is a good quality SAE30 because after 6 years of using it the Craftsman still didn't show any oil loss/consumption. I will probably give my son enough B & S oil to change the Craftsman next spring, but I would still have enough to change my Kaw twice, then change to the K-Tech SAE30 before switching to synthetic. Worst case I'll just give all of the B & S oil to my son. Watcha think about using it in my brand new Kawasaki????

Edit:My PC locked up on me and I couldn't pull this back up for a while:0(
On second thought, the three oil changes with SAE30 are probably an "overkill" on an extended "brake-in" and I will most likely go ahead and change to the 10w30 synthetic(with new filter) at 50 hours like you recommended. Again, thanks for the time to give me some solid advice!!!

 

[Carl_NH]

DJD,

Ha - Craftsman in a Kawasaki - I really dont see an issue since its jsut a good 30 W oil at the end of the day and yes I would not do three changes in thet first 50 hours as you decided.

On the Ferris they did make it easy to change with a flexible drop spout from the drain thru the frame for the oil. I like that feature - but for the filter change its a paper plate under the filter area and even then it hard not to make a mess.

How about some pictures of your new unit when you have a chance.

Thanks

 

[genusCastor]

.

synthetic: (1) Made artificially by chemical reaction, (2) Produced by synthesis, (3) Prepared or made artificially​

FYI (for those who are not aware): most "synthetic" oils on the market today are not technically synthetic. The term synthetic can be used based on performance, not the manufacture method. Amsoil is one of the few that manufactures a truly synthetic oil. Mobil 1 used to have a disclaimer on their "100% synthetic" oil that it was "exclusive of carrier oil." The 100% synthetic was large lettered on the front of the bottle, and exclusive of carrier oil was tiny print on the back.

IMO, synthetic oil is a marketing gimmick.

FWIW, I've never used any "synthetic" oil in anything, and I go 10-12k miles between changes (on street vehicles). Two vehicles I've owned had over 250,000 mi when I got rid of them. In fact, several years ago I gave my 1995 Tahoe to a needy family, and they're still driving it. The mechanic that gave them an annual inspection told them to let him know if they ever want to get rid of it.

I do religiously use Rislone, a qt goes in with every oil change.

YMMV

- djb

 

[djdicetn]

DJD,

Ha - Craftsman in a Kawasaki - I really dont see an issue since its jsut a good 30 W oil at the end of the day and yes I would not do three changes in thet first 50 hours as you decided.

On the Ferris they did make it easy to change with a flexible drop spout from the drain thru the frame for the oil. I like that feature - but for the filter change its a paper plate under the filter area and even then it hard not to make a mess.

How about some pictures of your new unit when you have a chance.

Thanks

Carl_NH,
Yeah, I'm about convinced that the synthetic oils are an overkill for a small engine application and may just stick with the SAE30 ongoing. My Gravely also has the clear plastic drain spout thru the frame and I made sure the filter was easily accessible, but I need to examine it closer because I think like you the motor is mounted thru a solid steel plate and not getting oil that drains when the filter is removed everywhere may be a challenge. I'm gonna try to get some photos of the Gravely this weekend and post to my profile. It is a very easy on the eyes ZTR that has a very "built like a tank" appearance to it. I am very pleased with my final choice.

 

[msparks]

Synthetics overkill?

Funny I've switched many a commercial mower over to synthetic, proven less fuel usage, I've seen 20-50 degree temperature drops on air cooled engines after switching to synthetic, I've seen less oil consumption during high temperature/hard use. I've seen engine torn down and they look new inside, no sludge and varnish build up.

But hey, maybe it's overkill when a new mower only costs $6,000-$10,000.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Synthetics overkill?

Funny I've switched many a commercial mower over to synthetic, proven less fuel usage, I've seen 20-50 degree temperature drops on air cooled engines after switching to synthetic, I've seen less oil consumption during high temperature/hard use. I've seen engine torn down and they look new inside, no sludge and varnish build up.

But hey, maybe it's overkill when a new mower only costs $6,000-$10,000.

Can't say it any better myself.

 

[alltherage]

Synthetic cured consumption and start up smoke in our kohler courage