Wiring a push button with toggle switch to replace keyed ignition

[Nick79]

Let me tell you the reason I'm trying to get away from the ignition key switch just so you guys don't think I'm crazy. I am paralyzed from the chest down. I have almost all movement of my arms but non in my hands at all. I cannot turn a key to save my life. This is the reason I'm wanting to put a push button to start the mower. I can control everything else, but I can't start the darn thing without the help of others.

 

[RickB]

That certainly puts a different light on the situation. I hope some suggestions from others here will be helpful.

 

[DT86]

You can do what you want to do but it will take two toggle switches and a momentary start button.

Couldn't he use one "double pole double throw" switch instead of two?

 

[JohninCT]

Couldn't he use one "double pole double throw" switch instead of two?

Yes a DPDT switch would work. Good suggestion.

Normally a DPDT connects two commons to two different circuits (eg 12v + and - hooked up to common 1 and 2 to provide or remove power to circuit 1 and 2).

See attached drawing
http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/ELECTRONICS/pdf/switches_demystified_assembly.pdf

For Nick's mower he could just use 4 of the 6 switch terminals. Connect battery 12v + (wires on existing switch terminal B) to terminal C. Connect ground (wires on existing switch terminal G) to terminal E. then connect existing switch terminal wires M (magneto) to terminal D and existing switch terminal L (alternator) to terminal B. New switch terminals A and F remain unused (no wires connected).

With this arrangement, toggle down would be "engine OFF" position. Toggle up would be "engine RUN" position. Momentary start button would still need to connect wires from existing terminal B (run a short jumper from new switch terminal C) and terminal S.

Make sense?

 

[Nick79]

Sounds good. I went to get me a DPDT switch but I can't find any at the local auto parts stores. I will order one off Internet I guess. Thanks to everyone on your info. I will let everyone know how it goes when I get the switch.

Thanks again.
Nick

 

[AceBoy2786]

Hi, Old thread but exactly what I'm looking for, however, I do have a question On my ignition switch (Ariens 46" 2012 Riding tractor/mower) the key has all the regular (G, S, M, L, B) settings but also has A1 and A2. according to the pdf the switch does this: off-G+M, Override - B+A1, Run - B+A1 L+A2, Start - B+S+A1, I understand your DPDT switch config and believe it to work (Haven't gotten any farther than research at the moment) but my question is if I was to get rid of the second "run" position and just keep the "Override" one would I just omit the L+A2 or would I have to connect the L with the B+A1?

21547944G.pdf <- is the parts manual with the wiring diagram in my onedrive folder if you need to reference it

Nick, You get yous done how'd it turn out?

 

[AceBoy2786]

Well, since I didn't get a response I'll assume this is dead, however I'll post what I did now that it seems to be working.
This way when someone googled it and only finds this page usefull like I did the whole answer will be here.

Dpdt switch
Common a - battery + also jumper to push button common lead
A1 (switch up) - mowers A1 lead, also a jumper to push button switch led positive
A2 (switch down) - no connection
Common b - ground also to push button switch led ground
B1 (switch up) - no connection
B2 (switch down) - magneto

Push button
Common - battery positive from dpdt switch
Normally open - to mowers starter wire
Normally closed - no connection (capped off)
Led+ - to dpdt switch as stated above
Led- - to dpdt switch as stated above

Mowers "L" & "A2" connections were not made

All connections were made to tractor by taking un-insulated spade connectors and crimping to wire then pushing into factory switch receptical, then tape it up to keep secured this way nothing "factory" was altered and everything is FULLY reversable.