Just wondering if anyone has transported their lawn tractor in the back of their pickup - I have transported my 12.5 hp Murray that way but I have a buddy who wants me to move his JD 150 (about 450 lbs.) in the back of my pickup and was wandering if the tailgate will hold that weight while driving it up the ramp. Thanks for any input!!
Transporting lawn tractor in pickup.
- Thread starter KatoMike
- Start date
jrlichina
Platinum Member
Shouldn't be a problem for any fullsize pickup. I never had a problem with either of my trucks in the past(Chevy or Ford). Heck that's only like having 2 guys sitting on the tailgate...
That's a good point, thanks. The pickup is a fullsize Dodge, but it is a 4wd so it sits up pretty high. I need to figure out how I can drive it up without sitting on it (hard to do I am sure because I am sure the engine will kill with no weight in the seat).
F350Lawman
Platinum Member
If you're worried take the tailgate off. Mine comes off in about 20 seconds, i am sure yours is around the same? Usually you just remove the starps and then one of the gate will pull out of one of thehinges when it is lined up in certain position.
We put my 17hp Murray with deck (must weigh about the same) on fairly easily. First we removed the tailgate. we than just took wto fence posts and screwed an old sheet of plywood to it for a make shift ramp. Me and my buddy just rolled it off. Getting it on we had used two 6" x 4" fence posts that were tacked together with 2'"x 4" at wheel width, that was a little harder as you had to keep the tractor right on line. Once it was almost on I held the rear from sliding back down while my buddy climbed on the truck and got the deck over the final hump.
We put my 17hp Murray with deck (must weigh about the same) on fairly easily. First we removed the tailgate. we than just took wto fence posts and screwed an old sheet of plywood to it for a make shift ramp. Me and my buddy just rolled it off. Getting it on we had used two 6" x 4" fence posts that were tacked together with 2'"x 4" at wheel width, that was a little harder as you had to keep the tractor right on line. Once it was almost on I held the rear from sliding back down while my buddy climbed on the truck and got the deck over the final hump.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 60,184
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I've hauled my Power Trc PT425 and mower deck in the bed of my pickup. It weighs around 1500lbs with me on it and the mower deck is a couple hundred more. I took off the tailgate. As mentioned, it is super easy. You just let the taligate down, pull the strap towards you while you lift the tailgate, and rotate the strap until it gets to the slots where the end of the strap will lift off of the pin that holds it. Let the tailgate back down and repeat for the other side. On the chevy, you then lift the tailgate to almost the closed position and the left side can then be lifted off the hing pin and then pull the left side of the tailgate towards you. After it comes towards you a couple of inches, you slide the whole thing to the left and off it comes. It really does only take about 20 seconds. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I bought some heavy duty ramps from Power Trac for my PT425, but for my lawn tractor, I bought a kit at harbor freight that has aluminum brackets that you bolt onto 2X10's or 12's. They are angled and lay flat on the bed. Then you drill some small holes in the bed and drop retainer pins through the brackets into the holes in the bed so the ramps won't slip off the bed(good safety idea). The bracket kit was under $20.00. I also never drove my lawntractor up the wooden ramps, as they are slick and I don't trust wooden ramps with me on the tractor. I pushed it up with a friend. If you find even a small hill or berm to back up to before loading it helps. Even taking a foot off the angle of the ramps makes it so much easier to push the tractor up.
I bought some heavy duty ramps from Power Trac for my PT425, but for my lawn tractor, I bought a kit at harbor freight that has aluminum brackets that you bolt onto 2X10's or 12's. They are angled and lay flat on the bed. Then you drill some small holes in the bed and drop retainer pins through the brackets into the holes in the bed so the ramps won't slip off the bed(good safety idea). The bracket kit was under $20.00. I also never drove my lawntractor up the wooden ramps, as they are slick and I don't trust wooden ramps with me on the tractor. I pushed it up with a friend. If you find even a small hill or berm to back up to before loading it helps. Even taking a foot off the angle of the ramps makes it so much easier to push the tractor up.
Logan
Silver Member
I have hauled a John Deere LX178 (15 HP, water cooled) back and forth from s.GA to NC many times with no problems. I hauled it in a 1998 Dodge 1500 4X4. With the tool box on the truck the rear wheels of the Deere sit just rear of the bed on the lowered tailgate. I strap it in well. I always loaded it with ramps. The ramps were pinned to the tailgate. (It would be a long way to fall if a ramp slipped off)
Molerj
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2001
- Messages
- 610
- Location
- Eastern Ohio
- Tractor
- JD 955, 1978 Economy Power King, JD X500
Try finding a little bit of a hill to back up to so the boards aren't quite so steep. Around here the hills aren't hard to find.
BigEddy
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
- Messages
- 268
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
- Tractor
- JD 855, 322, AMT626 plus whatever my son dragged home this month
No concerns carrying the tractor. Highly recommend the berm / ditch trick at each end. And, either remove the tailgate, or span the tailgate with your ramps. I recently transported a concrete buggy in the back of my truck (1000 lbs). No problem loading it (ramps and a berm) but when the single tail wheel pressed on my tailgate, it put a good dent in the middle. Never had a problem with the tractor, as it has 4 wheels, but this had a center wheel, and I only had 2 ramps and a short board so all the weight pressed on my tailgate. should have removed it.
I built my ramps from 8' 2x10s, to which I nailed a 2x4 on edge to each side. The 2x4s provides stiffness, and keep the wheels on the ramps. I used a strap hinge to attach a 12" piece of 2x10 on the one upper end, and that stops the ramps sliding off the truck bed as I go up. Nailed some shingles to them for traction. Use them for everything.
My biggest concern is securing the load. I feel the tie downs in my truck bed are pretty flimsy for 1000lbs and I sure don't want that sliding forward hard!
I built my ramps from 8' 2x10s, to which I nailed a 2x4 on edge to each side. The 2x4s provides stiffness, and keep the wheels on the ramps. I used a strap hinge to attach a 12" piece of 2x10 on the one upper end, and that stops the ramps sliding off the truck bed as I go up. Nailed some shingles to them for traction. Use them for everything.
My biggest concern is securing the load. I feel the tie downs in my truck bed are pretty flimsy for 1000lbs and I sure don't want that sliding forward hard!
SageBrush
Gold Member
I'll second the berm/ditch. I haul atvs, riding lawn mowers etc. all the time. I've put 600 plus pound atvs on my tail gate with no problems. I haul the mower and atv with the tail gate down due to a large fuel/tool box combos and one short bed truck with a normal tool box. The Ford and my two Dodge's tail gates are not bothered one bit by the weight.
Old_Hickory
Platinum Member
You should not have any problem, but here is a way to lessen the load on the tailgate,lay your ramps on the tailgate like you normally wood and put a cement/cinder block/blocks,woodblocks or something about midway or close to midway under your ramps,this will be like a cribbing effect and the blocks will carry a lot of your load when you drive the tractor up on the ramps and take the load off of the tailgate.