Waking up an older Troy-Built horse...

[timb]

Troy-Bilt "experts":

I've inherited an older (1979-1980?) Troy-Bilt Horse tiller (7 hp Kohler). It was always well taken care of but has been stored without being run for at least 5-6 years (under cover). Probably wasn't run out of gas dry before it was stored. I want to get it back in service for this year. Other than the usual procedures for waking up a gas engine (shot of oil in cylinder and cranked without the plug a bit, change the oil, clean the gas tank/lines) anyone know of anything specific to these Kohlers or the tiller gearbox that I should do or look out for? Like seals that are known to be trouble, etc.,? Have no idea of the drive belt age but I did notice that the pulley is pretty badly rusted. (The rest of the tiller is pretty clean).

Anyone know where I can get an owner's manual? The original is supposed to be around somewhere but I haven't found it yet.

Tim

 

[fishman]

I can't really help you with specifics, but I've read a lot of posts on garden-related sites that praise the 7 hp Kohler as a bulletproof engine. I don't own one, just repeating what I've read.

 

[timb]

The engine was always solid "back in the day" - my biggest concern is that this tiller hasn't really been run much lately - and probably wasn't "archived" correctly. In fact I believe it sat for a few seasons - then was pressed into service once without really going over it - and now it has been idle for another couple of years. So - I'm thinking corroded bore, stuck valves, gummed up carb, all sorts of things might have crept in. On the other hand - I won't know until I try - a little careful wake up and it might run strong as ever.

Tim

 

[JazzDad]

The quintessential answer on manuals, Tim, is nearly always: e-bay. It's worked for me it the past.

 

[Molerj]

Hi Tim, the bore, valves should be just fine, unless it has sat outside in the weather for the last several yrs. Your problem areas will more than likely be fuel tank, fuel line & carburetor.

 

[bontai_Joe]

I own a 1980 horse with the same Kohler. Mine sat a couple of years indoors and needed the carb torn down and cleaned and rebuilt because of excessive varnish. The manual says to shut off the fuel at the bottom of the tank and run it dry before storage, but I forgot. The carb parts were gosh darned expensive as I recall. When changing the oil, lift the opposite side wheel to tilt the engine toward the drain to get ALL the old oil out. Now with the tiller level, the dipstick is placed vertically in the hole WITHOUT threading it in to check level of oil per my manual. Use a good 30 weight. The gear box lube is a 80-90 weight gear oil (140 weight was the original oil from the factory and recommended in hot climates or for commercial use) and with the unit level in all directions, you would remove the upper check plug. If a little bit of oil starts coming out the bottom of the hole, it is full. Since it sat this long, I'd probably change the gear oil too. A new air filter, plug, points and definitely a new condenser are a good place to start. I just priced new tines at $122 from my local dealer, so it looks like ebay is a better choice. If you have never run one of these old Kohlers, they don't really sound like a mower engine, more of a thump thump thump sound. Not a real high RPM motor, but LOTS of torque. With all new lube and ignition parts you should be ready to go. Don't forget that there is a fuel shut off on the bottom of the gas tank! Make sure it is open when you try to start it. You got a great tiller! Mine is still running strong and no reason it won't last another 25 years.

 

[bontai_Joe]

One thing I forgot, you can get the tiller manual from MTD's web site. That will cover the tiller proper. You might get the Kohler manual from their web site, but I am not sure.

 

[timb]

bontai_joe

Thanks for the refresher. I ran this tiller myself many hours many years ago (it was my parents) so I remember it. I even did the maintenance 20 years ago but except for the straight 30W engine oil I had forgotten the details without the manual.

Based on how well this tiller worked I always talked up Troy-Bilts. Imagine my surprise when my father-in-law bought one of the new smaller units a few years ago. I took one look and clamed up without comment. There is no comparison.

Hopefully the beast will wake up gently and well-rested (not rusted).

The only problem I ever had was trying to till my Mom's garden for the first time one season after a farmer neighbor had graciously spread a couple inches of manure. Ever experience what happens with a rear-time tiller when the tires can't hold it back? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

At least I avoided going face-first all the way down! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[5030]

I have a K241 10 horse Kohler on my welder. Kohlers are bulletproof.

I'd get a pint of Chemtool. It's available at Murrays and mix it with some gas and run it through the carb if the engine will start. That will remove the varnish. If not, disassemble the carb and clean the parts in the Chemtool. Flush the inside of the gas tank with the Chemtool too.

As far as the bore or valves, just roll it over with the recoil and the sparkplug out. Put your finger over the hole and feel for compression. It should be okay. Before you start it the first time, you might have to replace the points and condensor. They are readily available at NAPA or Murrays.

Also, you might want to mix a little 2 stroke oil in the gas the first time. That will help lube the cylinder wall and rings as they have sat in one spot for a long time.

You also need to change the tiller gearbox oil. That's something that people never do. Use a good grade of SAE 90 weight GL 4 or 5 hypoid oil.

I had a horse a long time ago. Was a good tiller. Sold it for more than I paid for it.

 

[timb]

Daryl,

Good idea on the 2-stroke mix. Hadn't thought of that. Never used Chemtool but if I can avoid having to strip down the carb, so much the better. I do plan on changing engine and tranny oil prior to trying to start it - I thinking of changing them (at least the engine oil) again after running it back in for no more than one or two tanks of fuel. Not sure what kind of junk might get shaken/scraped loose in there.

Tim