Scag Advantage deck just sucks.

[LD1]

Both the A and V deck sho a short baffle section, going from the rear of the discharge side up toward the area of the first spindle.

I cannot say for certain without looking, but I have been under my deck dozens of times and dont recall seeing this on mine.

 

[Steave]

This is called a Turbo-Baffle increases discharge velocity and prevents cut grass from reentering the deck cutting cycle. (Not included on all models)

If its not there and the cut grass is making another pass through sounds like it may cause a build-up then shoot clumps out every now and again. You may be on to something there.

 

[EddieWalker]

If I was to modify my deck, I would weld some flat bar at a 45 degree angle into all the 90 degree inside edges to round them off. I think that the grass cuttings get caught there, and then build up. The smoother and rounder it is, the harder it would be for the cuttings to get caught.

And the other thing that I've spent some time thinking about would be to add to that front angle iron edge to make it go all the way across, and maybe come down even more to stop all grass and dust from blowing out the front. I cut a tire in half and bolted it to the front of my bush hog to stop all the dust and debris from coming out of it that has worked very well. Something like that is also a possibility.

 

[LD1]

Maybe I'll have to fab something up and see. I do mow down and back passes. So every other pass is blowing clippings toward uncut crass, so I may very well be pulling some back in

 

[LD1]

Eddie:

I only get blow out from the front when the deck gets clogged. Eliminate that and there is no need for anything else.

I also thought about the flat bar just as you describe. But my only concern with that is rust. I would have just created a semi-sealed triangle, that would be impossible to ever paint or clean. I know you probably don't have snowplows down there, but anyone familiar with Meyers older plows knows just what I am talking about. Rotting out the plow face from behind, right where their angle iron ribs are.

I wish they would go back to heavy duty stamped decks. Like the JD 261 and 272 RFM's

 

[EddieWalker]

Thinking about the flat bar again, I can see what you mean. I also can't figure out how to bend it to fit properly, but then thought of using solid round bar. That would eliminate the rust issue and make it a lot easier to bend to fit. It's probably more work then it's worth. Shame caulking wouldn't work

 

[CCWKen]

Looks to me like there's more blade space on the V deck. This would certainly help reduce clumping and/or allow the grass to move under the deck. You might try modifying a set of your old blades by removing about 3/4" - 1" from the tips. BUT, certainly no more than the blade overlap/offset or you'll get uncut lines. See if that reduces clogging and thus sticking under the deck. Perhaps the blades need more free space and the reason the high-lift blades don't work well--It makes the condition worse.

On my Woods, there's only about 1" of clearance or less from the blade tips to the deck housing and I get some build up of mostly dirt and compacted grass over the season. It looks just like the photos you posted. For the most part, it's self cleaning except for that. And I've never run anything but stock blades. (They have about a 1/2" dogleg offset from the spindles.)

I don't see how you could increase the size of the deck without major modifications. The only permanent repair would be to use smaller blades. Might be worth a try.

 

[Clay45]

Once rain starts back after a dry spell or in early Spring the moisture content in the clippings is high and my Velocity deck clogs just like you do if not worse. In dry conditions its not an issue. I look like a racoon once I've finished cutting our 6 acres too. Still searching for an easier method to scrape the deck out myself.

 

[LD1]

After just a si for mowing of my 6 acres

 

[EddieWalker]

Your deck is completely different then mine. I didn't realize they where so different.