WHAT DO U GUYS THINK?

[frank_f15]

A LITTLE BACKGROUND I have a 18 hp sears GT that is 13 years old, never done a thing to it cept normal stuuff, belts blades etc. seems like today i lost the starter mortor. just grinds, think the teeth are gone on the starter. i have worked that thing hard probably 100 hrs per year, i also have a walk behind and a kubota b2400 for the heavy work, should i fix it and keep it or sell it and get a new one? with hydro! everything must be getting tired on that machine! would like to stay under $3000.00 i know a lot of folks knock the craftsaman machines, but this one has served me extremly well, shoul i go back to sears or what other brands do u guys suggest. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Bob_Skurka]

My 12 year old Cub Cadet is a great machine. Never been repaired. Cubs are well built and a good value. You can get a nice Cub for $3000.

 

[nobull1]

I would keep it myself and do whatever repairs that are needed when required.The cost of repairing are small compared to buying a new one. Most of the depreciation is already gone so your only cost is upkeep.The only reason that I would think to sell is if breakdowns become a inconvenience. Just my opinion

 

[slammer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( seems like today i lost the starter mortor. just grinds, think the teeth are gone on the starter. )</font>

If it is the plastic gear fix it. Remove the cover over the starter. You should be able to see the plastic gear and spring sitting right on top of the starter. If it is worn as I suspect it's a cheap fix. Just guessing here but you most likely have a Briggs engine so here we go. If it's not a B&S just save these instructions till you get one!

1. Disconnect the negative wire from your battery.
2. Remove the red wire (only wire) from the starter.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the engine.
4. Clean up the starter and place it on a clean work area.
5. Remove the roll pin on the starter shaft below the gear assembly. This is obvious and you will see it right off.
6. Removing the pin will release the whole assembly. You will replace all of this assembly. (about $10.00)
7. Gather up the pin, gear, spring, and cage. Write down the model and serial numbers from the engine (not the tractor) and head to your local lawn mower shop. They will have these parts in stock.
8. Replace parts in the reverse order and your back in business.

So weigh these factors. $2 or $3K for a new tractor or 1 hour of your time and ten bucks?

Course if you have the new tractor bug bad you'll buy one anyway! LOL!! If that is the case I would still fix the old one to trade, sell, or rough mow with. Let us know how it goes.

Slam

 

[slammer]

Sorry forgot my recommendations!

Of the commonly available tractors in the 3K price range I would suggest 2. The John Deere LT180 at $3169 (msrp). Stay away from the 100 series JD's. Cub Cadet still makes a good tractor as long as you stay in their 2000 series or higher. (avoid the 1000's) I would suggest the LT 2180 at $2189 (msrp). Both are close in size to your Sears but are worlds better machines. There are probably 2 or 3 more tractors out there in your range but these two stand out in their class. Both are hydrostats with cruise, cast iron front ends etc... Happy shopping!

Slam

 

[Egon]

Souds like a relatively easy repair. If the rest of the tractor is in good condition just keep going.

I had a 75 Sears 16 HP that had an opposed twin Onan engine with a belt driven two range 3 speed transmission. It was a great machine.

Egon

 

[frank_f15]

think i will do what you suggest, would rather fix this one. But the wife won,t let me work on it Today(Fathers day) and we are having some company. $10 sounds way better than $3000.00 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif got to do it quick tho, casn't be without it for too long.

 

[slammer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( think i will do what you suggest, would rather fix this one. But the wife won,t let me work on it Today(Fathers day) and we are having some company. $10 sounds way better than $3000.00 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif got to do it quick tho, casn't be without it for too long. )</font>

If you have any trouble let me know and I will help you all I can.

Slam

 

[frank_f15]

well i did what you sugessted this morning , and you were right. the plastic teeth were gone off the stater. tokk the whole thing to the biggest dealer close by to get the parts, he did not have them but they were comming in latter today said to leave the starter and hey would put the new parts on, dress the armature and check the brushes, called me 5 hours later , all done, whole thing cost $33 including tax, will install it tomorrow morning. Lets see $33 vrs $3000.00 I WIN. one thing u did not mention were the numerous bolts i had to remove to get the covers off the engine to get at the two bolts for the starter. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif thanks so very much for all your help. even looked at some of the cub cadets he had there.

 

[frank_f15]

oh forgot > i did like the LT2180 18 hp shaft drive, hydro, but i thought his price was a bit high $2599. sticker price. but not going to buy till i need one.