Longevity of Yard Machines lawn tractors?

[zuren1cs]

I just bought a new house and negotiated for the lawn tractor the owner still had in the garage. It is a Yard Machines (built by MTD for Home Depot) with 42" mower and 17.5 HP Briggs & Stratton engine. It's about a $1000 machine. It appears to be a couple years old, so I'm curious to know if these are cheaply made tractors that I can count on giving me problems sooner rather than later, or will it last me a while?

I'd like to upgrade to a sub-compact tractor, so if I can sell it or get a trade-in value on it while it's still worth something, I'd like to know!

Thanks!

 

[Hard]

Assuming it's the right size tractor for your property and the tasks you want it to perform with proper maintenance you should get 7 to 10 years out of it. I got 6 solid years out of a Craftsman GT before I sold it and could have gotten several more I think. I am a fanatic about greasing, changing oil and oil filters/air filters at least twice a season. And I don't beat the crap out of my equipment. Overkill I'm sure, but oil, grease and filters are relatively cheap.

If you are looking at sub-cuts, check out the Massey GC2300, Kubota BX2350, New Holland TZ series and the JD 2305. Skip the Cub Cadet 5000 series, I had 2 of them. Major problems with both.

Good luck.

 

[slowrev]

I don't know yet. I bought a 15.5 hp IC OHV briggs / 42 inch Yard machine rider last spring. $850. Working good so far. I mow about 2.5 acres with it this summer.
I have 2 Yardman self propelled walk behind mowers. One was 9 yrs old when the wife hit a stump and bent the crank. good engine and rest, so I will straighten or replace the crank when I get time. Bought another one a couple of years ago, going good.
Ben

 

[MT372HERE]

My Aunt bought one new 2 years ago...what a HEAP

I do all the service on it, and I have my own small engine shop, with full supplies.

I cut 1 acre with it.

1. The Blades dont last long at all, but when I upgraded to Gators, they lasted 2-3 times longer.
2- the 18hp engine runs too slow, and too lean- Raised speed to 3600, and run it 1/4 choked
3- The Reverse lockout is a PITA, and must be disabled, or else you have to lift the deck all the way to reverse.
4- The steering pinion gear is cheap, and strips easily, this one after only 1 season.

It starts and runs, and ir does cut grass..but it BARELY does its job. The Variable speed belts are expensive, and a pain to replace, and from what Ive seen, 2-3 years is tops for a set of belts, 2 years for deck belt.

Dont pull anything of any weight with it, as the trans is weak, and tends to break easily.

Still better than a Murray though.

 

[Fordlords]

As far as resell or trade in value, the inexpensive LT's have little if any once used for 2 or 3 years. They will often last if used for their intended light duty and maintained for 8-10 years though. At that time you send it to the curb and buy a new one. I have a small hydro Craftsman with Kohler Command that is into it's 10th season mowing about a half acre of flat ground with no serious problems at all. Only things replaced have been the battery once, the blades a few times, blade brake springs, and one rear tire that got mangled on a piece of pipe. In the low buck category, all of the light LT's are pretty much the same regardless of brand. You usually get an entry level Briggs Intek or Kohler Courage engine, a light gauge stamped box section, "Frame," (not really a frame at all), a Peerless or Hydro Gear aluminum belt drive hydro, and small wheels and 2 ply tires. Some MIGHT give you a cast iron front axle as an added bonus, or a deck wash system, or some other small features. If you just cut grass or tow a small cart and avoid plowing fields, you should be able to get your money's worth out of any make of light LT out there today.

-Fordlords-

 

[QRTRHRS]

Change the oil regularly and grease the mower spindle bearings. While difficult, it helps to keep the mower deck clean underneath. Mostly, the decks rot and/or wear out while the mower keeps on ticking.

I had one of those Home Depot Scott's mowers which were at first made by MTD before they changed to Deere? I found adjustments to be a major pain due to the engineering or lack of. Perhaps just cheap hardware?

 

[zuren1cs]

3- The Reverse lockout is a PITA, and must be disabled, or else you have to lift the deck all the way to reverse.

YES!!!! I found this to be a pain the first time I ran the thing. While I understand it's a safety feature, I'd like to know how to disable it as well.

I'd also like to disable the safety switch that kills the engine when you get out of the seat. I grew up mowing the grass with an all-gear drive Power King (Economy Tractor) that had ZERO safety switches and mechanisms, so I'm aware that you need to look behind you when backing and make sure the mower blades have stopped before dismounting. Having to turn the tractor off everytime I want to move a rock or stick from my path is putting undue wear on the starter.

 

[MT372HERE]

Change the oil regularly and grease the mower spindle bearings. While difficult, it helps to keep the mower deck clean underneath. Mostly, the decks rot and/or wear out while the mower keeps on ticking.

I had one of those Home Depot Scott's mowers which were at first made by MTD before they changed to Deere? I found adjustments to be a major pain due to the engineering or lack of. Perhaps just cheap hardware?

As I recall, The Early Scotts were made by AYP.

The Early Scotts were decent quality, and worked well..These were the Green ones, then they were Orange, and were even better...Then alot of the stock was purchased by JD, then JD took over production, then they stopped production of the Saber Mowers, which was the JD entry level mower. Then JD stopped production of Scotts mowers, and began branding a poorly made entry level mower as John Deere (the 100 series)

At least this is how it was explained to me...but despite what most people think, JD makes the L100 series, not AYP, Murray or MTD.

 

[MT372HERE]

YES!!!! I found this to be a pain the first time I ran the thing. While I understand it's a safety feature, I'd like to know how to disable it as well.

I'd also like to disable the safety switch that kills the engine when you get out of the seat. I grew up mowing the grass with an all-gear drive Power King (Economy Tractor) that had ZERO safety switches and mechanisms, so I'm aware that you need to look behind you when backing and make sure the mower blades have stopped before dismounting. Having to turn the tractor off everytime I want to move a rock or stick from my path is putting undue wear on the starter.

okay, you didnt hear it from me....

Take the middle shifter cover off, and pull the wire out of its clip...done.

The seat switch, as I recall, is the same way, just unplug it, if not, use a peice of wire to jumper the 2 terminals, and electrical tape it up.

 

[QRTRHRS]

As I recall, The Early Scotts were made by AYP.

The Early Scotts were decent quality, and worked well..These were the Green ones, then they were Orange, and were even better...Then alot of the stock was purchased by JD, then JD took over production, then they stopped production of the Saber Mowers, which was the JD entry level mower. Then JD stopped production of Scotts mowers, and began branding a poorly made entry level mower as John Deere (the 100 series)

At least this is how it was explained to me...but despite what most people think, JD makes the L100 series, not AYP, Murray or MTD.

You may well be right. It's been about 3 years or so since I sold the (orange) Scott's. I was going by what someone else told me.