Are the new riders any better?

   / Are the new riders any better? #1  

65cobra

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May 24, 2005
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I have a 90s 20hp 46 inch cut craftsman mower its a v-twin and hydrostatic drive. It runs okay but I keep throwing the pto to deck belt. I will buy a new one and see if it helps other than that its okay. But my complaints are that the discharge plugs up easily particularily if the grass is moist or if I mowing tall grass in the field. It does not mulch very well If I don't mow consistently I get a big mess. Its not always possible to mow in the earlly spring because the ground is a joke, can't pound a nail in it in the summer and can't walk on it in the winter. There is a clay barrier two feet down and the water just sits on top of it. It also seems like my front tires squish the grass down so those strips do not mow well. I have replaced all the bearings in the mower deck so they are tight.

Is a newer machine going to be any better? Or am I just expecting too much out of these machines? If a newer machine is going to make a big diffrence I am ready to drop about $2k do I get high end (box store) rider or a low end zero turn? Is the zero turn more fun to drive?
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #2  
I never owned the same unit you have, but I wouldn't think it should throw belts off. I have owned other craftsmans that had belt trouble, but there was always a reason it came off. If the belt is installed correctly, with the right tension, and the guides and guards are in place, it shouldn't come off. I can say that zero turns are more fun, cause I replaced one of my lawn tractors with one. Its almost unfair to compare a low end lawn tractor with a comercial zero turn though.
 
   / Are the new riders any better?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The tensioner has some play (up and down) but is not missing any parts and appears to be tensioned properly. I may try and scoot the deck back a little using the adjustments on the front arms. I don't know why else it keeps jumping off. I bought a new belt, If anything it may be slightly longer :( If it would keep the belt on and didn't plug up so much I would have no problem with it.

Sometimes when I am cutting really tall or moist grass I actually hold up the exhaust guard, not safe I know but other wise it plugs up right away.
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #4  
Does the deck vibrate, are your bearings in good shape in spindles? Reach underneath (engine off, key in pocket) and shake blades to see if they wobble. What about damage to pulleys (are they bent or broken)? Seems like it should be an easy enough fix if you can locate problem, lot cheaper than new mower. How big is your yard/area that your mowing? I have heard that the ZTR's are a lot faster than a traditional unit. See if you can go test drive new unit, that may let you know your next step.
 
   / Are the new riders any better?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Well I increased the throw of the tensioner and tightened up the spring. And the belt stays on fine now. But... now I lost a spindle, I had welded the spindle nut onto the pulley because I am cheap You know the pully teeth and spindle were stripped. It did loosen up and dropped the spindle out. So I will get new stuff on order. All the bearings are tight.

I have half an acre of grass. It does seem like I spend 1/3 of my time making turns or doing that last little area, I could see how a Zero turn could work alot faster. Zero turns turn just like Dads old swather I used to drive right?
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #6  
Big turns are where the time is lost with a tractor. My cut times were more than halved when I started cutting with my yard with a zero turn. A zero turn's drive wheels can be contolled independently, so for example the left can roll forward, and the right can reverse, pivoting the machine around on its own axis more or less. I can cut a level acre in a little over a half hour with my unit. Used to take a whole lot longer. I haven't tried the low end zeros like Sears is selling so I can't comment on them. Once you get your mower squared away, maybe it won't be so bad. I can't stand having to stop cutting to repair a mower. You could also look at Hydro walk behinds with a sulky. For smaller lots, like under 2 or 3 acres, it would be nice.
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #7  
Cobra 65:

I had about 2/3 of an acre (in three separate areas) of lawn installed a year ago. I've been cutting it with a 48" Toro using a mulch plug and mulching blades.

About 6 months ago I inherited a 21" self propelled Scott's bagger walk behind. I now use the Scott's to make a single pass around the perimiter, around a sign pole and sometimes around three trees. I get done faster, have a neater job because the Toro isn't blowing clippings on the stree and driveway and save fuel overall. I don't have to mow around the edges on the Toro at crawl speed and don't do a lot of tight circles or backing up. We did design in as any gentle curves and as few square turns as possible in the lawn design to make mowing easier.
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #8  
I think for a 1/2 acre you could look at commercial belt driven walk behinds. You could get a nice unit for around 2k and have your yard cut in about 15 or 20 minutes easy if you don't have too many obstacles. A lot of home owner's have gone to these because of the quality and value.
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #9  
I have a JD LX255 that I bought about 7 years ago. I mow about 1/2 acre of lawn with it and also use it to cut along my driveway and by part of my road. I've used it in my pasture a few times as well. Basically, I thrash it. I am still on my original PTO / deck belt and the thing has never come off on me. I have mowed some pretty tall and thick grass with it and it is possible to clog the discharge chute, but it doesn't stay clogged (well, I have done it but it was definately my own fault). That has been one tough little hombre, so I know that there are lawn tractors that will do what you are looking for.

Don't know much about low end ZTRs.
 
   / Are the new riders any better? #10  
65cobra said:
Sometimes when I am cutting really tall or moist grass I actually hold up the exhaust guard, not safe I know but other wise it plugs up right away.
With that shute in the down position & mowing tall or wet crass you are going to get a mess & it will plug up. If the deck has that cut out on the top (I really hate that design, as it is an accident waiting to happen.) you can use a rope to pull up on the shute just a little to let some of the grass come out better. Another problem with that style of deck was the design of the deck itself. It is shaped with the middle section smaller than the outer sections & the cut grass from the left side has to travel thru that middle section---cut anything other than medium height,dry grass & you have problems.
 
 
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