Transmission problem, Scotts

[teg]

First off, I don't know what I'm doing but have fun trying to figure things out.

Secondly, I bought a Scotts S1642 lawn tractor (made by "JD") with transmission problems... granted, I've done stupider stuff. Thought I could fix this so, I opened the transmission to see what I could find out... not much, but I did find an extra pin but could not locate where it came from... see photos. Does anyone know where this *should* be??

Also, could not help but notice (last photo) that there are "cut-outs" (for lack of knowledge) that looks like something should be there, or does it look OK? If you know of a good lawn mower repair forum, I wouldn't mind searching there, too. Thanks for any information that you might have. Dan

 

[Fordlords]

About your best sources for help with this transaxle are from its manufacturer, it will be Hydro-Gear, Tecumseh, or Tuff-Torq (Yanmar). With that known and the transaxle model number, they can supply you with a parts blowup and or sources for parts.

But... the truth is when people have problems with one of those sealed transaxles, they most often just toss it in the trash. I know you have nothing to lose, but probably not much to gain either other than wasted time. Although the Sabre and Scotts tractors said "By John Deere," on them , I'm 99% sure they were outsourced from another manufacturer, and found it ironic they were discontinued from production right about the time Murray Corporation went bankrupt and out of business in 2004. John Deere themeslves do not list or supply parts support for the Sabre or Scotts models.

Probably the best bet for luck would be to find the same model working transaxle from another tractor and swap it on.

-Fordlords-

 

[teg]

Thanks for the information. I figured the JD name was just a sticker. I hate to think that these things are disposable mowers, use a season or two and throw away... when I put the transmission back together last night, the pull (with the fan) seems loose. The teeth don't look that chewed up so I thought that might be the problem.

Could I use Lock Tight in the teeth (as you can see I have never used Lock Tight and only guessing if it might hold). Also thought about JB weld (mix part A & B together, sets up like a rock). Since the only option is to throw it away, I'll try both. I have not wasted enough time yet on this "project". Besides, now I see how the inside of a hst transmission works. Dan

 

[Fordlords]

The shaft with the fan should feel loose, as it is the pump end of the transaxle. It spins at engine RPM to build the pressure to operate the transmission section of it. I'm guessing that pin probably had something to do with why the transaxle didn't work, it looks like a locking or locating pin. Fill the tranny up with juice and see what happens, maybe you will be lucky

-Fordlords-

 

[teg]

This would be the first time I got lucky... I'm heading down to the basement and give it another try. The transmission looks pretty simple (following how it works). One thing that I did not mention was there is a "relief" valve that's connected to a metal rod. You pull the rod and the wheels move free... well that didn't work so I'm going to look around that valve. In the far way photo within the blue circle (on the right side) is that valve. Hope that's it... Dan

 

[unit40]

John Deere - Parts Catalog

The above is your link to JD parts for your machine. It lists it having a K-51 tranny. I think you can find most parts for your machine here too.

 

[Fordlords]

You can then go to Tuff-Torq's site Untitled Document and go under the catalog/order subheading and put in the K51A model number to get the parts blowup for the transaxle. You can then order the parts right from Tuff Torq. It does not look like Deere sells the internal parts for this transaxle, and wants near $500 for a new one, I'm sure that's more than what the tractor is worth. -Fordlords-

 

[teg]

Thanks for the links! Great info! I will most like see about replacing the pump (if this one fails) Good news is that I put it back together and it WORKS! I have not put it under stress (ie. actually mowing with it up hill). I had to take the mower deck off to replace the drive belt. So I sharpen the blades and touched up where a little rust started. I should have it together tonight and give it a test run.

Photo is of the second pump "head" (I do not know what it should be called). Something went "through" there?!?!? and beat it up. The first "head" had a little scratch... not worth a photo. BTW, I took several photos of the open transmission (it was *not* a complete tear-down), should I post those photos or has that been done before?

 

[Molerj]

Teg, my experience with working on the hydro's was with a Hydrogear, but basically the same as the tuff torq. I had a repair manual & tried repairing the block assembly by removing any scratches with very fine grit (400, I think) sandpaper on a glass block. Replaced all seals etc. & didn't find any improvement. The toro tractor that it powered would move but as fluid got hot it got slower. The tolerances of the internals are very important. I was hesitant on purchasing new parts because I couldn't be sure of what all needed replaced. Problem is you can get more money involved than what the new trans. is or more than what the tractor is worth. The Toro still sits in the upstairs part of my barn, but I can't see spending 550.00 on a new hydro.