Alternator question & picked up some old stuff thread!

[Kaliburz]

Well, I was 'given' some old farm stuff today. Friend's sister in a law sold of an Farmall Super C (I think that's what he said) and the front cultivator was left behind (collector didn't want it).

Any how, I went to go salvage it and a lot of other stuff. Came w/ a two Planet JR planters and four other models I didn't recognize (could have been Planet Jr, but maybe earlier....) The two Planet JR's appear complete (and I got some seed plates too).



Okay, now my alternator question....

John Deere 2640 and 2030 tractor that has the externally regulated Motorola alternator. The unit is 35amp (not enough in my opinion to run all the extra lights I have during grape harvest). I think the crew didn't get the RPM fast enough, but to solve that issue, I think I "should" put a bigger amp alt. BUT, the local shop (rebuilds alts, starters, etc) told me that there wasn't a kit for that particular Motorola to boost the amps. And I don't want to wire in a single wire 10SI. Wiring is factory and stock..... I know....wouldn't matter, but ....

I ran accross an old GM external alternator, the 10DN. According to the diagrams I saw, it has a F, R and Batt terminal. I haven't been able to figure out what and how many wires the regulator has (unless it's like one for an old generator??? Four wires too????)

Any how, the tractor has a solid state regulator that has that has 4 wires, and has an idiot light (which I'd like to keep). According to the wiring schematic, the wires go to Motorola Alt are field terminal (F)?, Output terminals (Batt), Regulator terminals (R) and Ground Terminal. So, I guess what I'm asking is, if I find a nice high output 10DN alternator (say 65+amps or more), will it hook right up???? (I know, it sounds like a basic question, but when it comes to hooking things up when non stock.....I'd rather err on the side of caution vs having to replace parts.)

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Plenet Jr row units sell new for north of $600 each! They'll plant darn near anything, no matter how small the seed is. Only issue I have with them is lack of ability to set plant spacing. They plant heavy and rely on thinning the crop once it's up and growing. I've got a NEW Planet jr single row "push planter" that I'd like to sell. (Dad bought it just before he died) New cost was $640 w/shipping. It's essentially the very same row unit that would hang on a toolbar for use on a tractor only with "wheel borrow" handles.

 

[Soundguy]

While I wouldn't put a GM 1-wire on there.. I wouldn't hesitate to slap a 3-wire inthere.. and it can be done EASILLY to make the idiot lamp work.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

But can I still use the original regulator on the 2640 though........ I'm a novice when it comes to alternators.... heck, you recall that post I had about the mess they did on the harvester (generator to 12SI). I don't really want to modify the wiring THAT much.... hoping for a 'bolt in' replacement. Would that 10DN be it???


$600! Actually, I have an old push type Planet Jr planter (like you said, basically the same thing as the tractor minus the handles). I'm not sure if the older planters I got were older Planet Jr's or something else. All the seed carriers said Planet Jr...... Part of the frames look like Planet Jr's, but part of it looks like it may have been older. I can rebuilt them to look like the new models (I think I can see why they may have fallen apart.....) All it is is flat and I can bend, weld and drill that fairly easily. I don't care if it isn't original, so as long as it works..... hate seeing old stuff 'die'....

 

[Soundguy]

I don't have all the specs on a 10dn handy.. I like the internal regulated alts.. like delco 10 / 12 SI.. or things like a CS130.. etc. 10dn is externally regulated, and I'm pretty sure B circuit type.. IE.. the F terminal recieves field power FROM the regulator. IE.. you can full field test a 10dn by jumpering output stud tot he F terminal and run the engine and see if voltage comes up.. should hit about 17v or better pretty fast... ( don't run it like this mor ethan a few seconds.. ).. if volts DO come up.. alt is probably good, and VR is probably bad.

Ok.. I just did some checking.. and I am correct.. 10dn IS b circuit... here's a reg that will fit it..:

Oddball Auto Parts - Alternator Regulator D9212-1

If your old reg is for 12v b-circuit.. there is some chance it may fit it.. many times alt and genny regs can be 'made' to interchange.. int he end.. it boils down to circuit type.. B circuit units provide field power from the reg to the gen/alt.. and the main difference is the amount of field power provided..e tc.

You won't need the old regulator for a 10SI.. though you can leave it wired up, and simply attach the charge wire from the alternator to the battery lug ont he old reg, just using it as an attach point to merge the wireing... then, locate the circuit for the idiot lamp.. probably somewhere it is picking up power from the ignition switch, then to the lamp, then to a tab on the reg or alternator.. depending on make. Modify the circuit so power fromthe switched side of the ignition runs thru the lamp, then to the #1 terminal onthe 10SI.. then loop the #2 terminal down tot he charge stud.. then connect the charge stud to the batt connection on the old reg... clip of fthe fld/gen/arm wires fromt he old reg as they are not used... poof.. that's all you need to do, other than physically mount the alternator.

When you turn the key on, power flows thru the lamp to the #1 terminal making the lamp glow... once the engine is started and at above 300 - 400 rpm, the alt starts charging, and the potential on #1 comes up to charge/batt votlage, thus current stops flowing in that circuit, thus the lamp goes out.. letting you know you are charging... if lamp comes on.. alt is not charging... it's literally that easy...

soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

I wish I could scan a pic of the OEM wiring diagram w/ the Motorola alternator on it, but my scanner/printer is on the fritz...

Well, lets see if I can 'describe' where the wires are going.....

Regulator four wires (I have two regulators, but the wires are different colors!) Dang it... based on location on plug... here is the wires in there position. Four wire plug, on top of each other, NOT in a row. This is facing the plug, w/ the harness lock on the bottom

New..................Old
Reg 1................Reg 2
white....red====white....orange
green....black==yellow....brown

The new one is a Leece Neville Mod 8RH2004E
4amps 12V
The JD number on the box is AR77485

The old is Motorola, 12V, but has the same "model" number.

One wire on the regulator goes directly to the ignition switch, but I don't know which wire.


Alternator connections (and harness wire color connections)
Field terminal- green wire to reg
Output Terminal- red wire to reg. 2 wires one comes from the batt to alt stud, then the other to reg
Regulator Terminal- orange to indicator lamp then lamp to reg.
Ground Terminal- black to reg

This is what a web site said about the original Alt (well, one of the 4 part numbers)
ER/EF; 12-VOLT; 37 AMP; LESTER 7353;
REPLACES; A12NJD452, -454; AT21618, -9; TY1428
USED ON JOHN DEERE
MOTOROLA ALTERNATOR