More Over-Running Clutch Problems

[tderrick]

Well, I seem to be wearing out another OR clutch just after a day or so of hogging. It's starting to wobble again just like the previous clutch.

Has anyone had this happen before?

I wonder if the u-joints might be worn, causing the clutch to give way.

There is a lot of play in the clutch now... I can wiggle it around pretty good on the pto shaft. I put an adaptor on my 8n stubby pto shaft to get me up to 1-1/8"... I'm going to pull both off to see if the drift pins are smashed up or something in the morning...

 

[whistlepig]

I ran an over running clutch on a John Deere MT for a couple of years with a five foot brush hog. I never had a problem with the over running clutch. They seem pretty tough. Your PTO must be thumping the over running clutch pretty hard to wear it out.

 

[DJ54]

You might check and see how much expansion is left in your PTO shaft, when it's picked up all the way. There may be none, and forcing the PTO shaft forward, shearing the roll pin, and tearing up the clutch...

I did this on my Super C Farmall, because of the different position of the PTO, and combination of using the 3 pt. conversion. Good thing I caught it the first time. If repeated, you could do some serious internal damage.

 

[RickB]

If you are using a 1-1/8" to 1-3/8" bushing under a 1-3/8" I.D. ORC, that's probably about 90% of your trouble. You need to buy an ORC with a 1-1/8" I.D. or, considering your 1-1/8" tractor output shaft is probably worn severely, buy a PTO shaft kit for your tractor to provide you with a new 1-3/8" standard PTO output and use the style ORC you have. All this is assuming you have carefully checked your mower's PTO shaft to make sure it isn't bottoming out, as suggested in the previous thread.

 

[tderrick]

OK... I was a little tired and gave some bad info.

My 8N has a 1 1/8" stubby.

I put on a 1 3/8" adaptor on which put me out to standard length(not the bushing type)

Then I put on a new 1 3/8" OR clutch and everything felt pretty tight.

 

[tderrick]

You might check and see how much expansion is left in your PTO shaft, when it's picked up all the way. There may be none, and forcing the PTO shaft forward, shearing the roll pin, and tearing up the clutch.....

So you mean the drive shaft to the bush hog my be bottoming out causing forward thrust on the tractor pto shaft??

I'll double check that.

 

[tderrick]

You need to buy an ORC with a 1-1/8" I.D. or, considering your 1-1/8" tractor output shaft is probably worn severely, buy a PTO shaft kit for your tractor to provide you with a new 1-3/8" standard PTO output and use the style ORC you have. All this is assuming you have carefully checked your mower's PTO shaft to make sure it isn't bottoming out, as suggested in the previous thread.

I like the idea of a PTO shaft kit... Is that a job I could do myself??

 

[DJ54]

"So you mean the drive shaft to the bush hog my be bottoming out causing forward thrust on the tractor pto shaft??"

That is a possibility... Depending on the adapter, if it is the type that just slips over the PTO shaft enlarging it to 1 3/8", and is still the same length. Or if it is the type slips on, and extends back past the original shaft 5 or 6 inches, plus your clutch... That's taken a up lot of space.

Maybe at the highest lifting point, or maybe even lowest possible position... Like crossing a ditch, or swail, causing it to raise higher than the tractor would lift it..., or after crossing, and the tail wheel drops in. If your lever is at the most forward position, it should let the arms almost touch the ground. Depending on the position of the tractor in such a place, and how the PTO shaft aligns. It can very well happen.

 

[MikesTractor]

I like the idea of a PTO shaft kit... Is that a job I could do myself??

This is easy to do. You have to drain the transmission/hydraulic oil (5 gallons). Remove the 4 bolts that hold the PTO shaft flange in the rear housing. Pull the PTO shaft and housing out of the tractor. Clean the area where the gasket goes and install the new shaft and housing (with a new gasket). Replace the 4 bolts, refill with oil, add your over running coupler, and you are ready to go.

Mike

 

[tderrick]

"So you mean the drive shaft to the bush hog my be bottoming out causing forward thrust on the tractor pto shaft??"

That is a possibility... Depending on the adapter, if it is the type that just slips over the PTO shaft enlarging it to 1 3/8", and is still the same length. Or if it is the type slips on, and extends back past the original shaft 5 or 6 inches, plus your clutch... That's taken a up lot of space.

Maybe at the highest lifting point, or maybe even lowest possible position... Like crossing a ditch, or swail, causing it to raise higher than the tractor would lift it..., or after crossing, and the tail wheel drops in. If your lever is at the most forward position, it should let the arms almost touch the ground. Depending on the position of the tractor in such a place, and how the PTO shaft aligns. It can very well happen.

Seeing that my 8N still has the stubby PTO, The adaptor takes it out close to a normal amount.

And having studied the operating angles a little more, I'm going to take a couple of inches off the Hog pto shaft and limit the amount of lift.

I think that is what was causing the stress on the OR clutch...