flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,538
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
Finally got around to repairing the brakes on the 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop that I bought a few months ago. Tractor is fine--but the brakes are marginal.
The brakes are band type with the drums attached to shafts on the differential. The 60 has a final drive unit with bull gears. The differential and final drive unit are arranged in a horizontal configuration rather than vertically as in a Farmall Cub or Super A. Four hex bolts hold the covers on the brake units.
The bands contract and squeeze the drum when the brake pedal is depressed. The large hex nut holds the drum to the differential shaft. There's a large lock washer behind that nut with tabs that can be bent upward to keep the hex nut from loosenng.
The ends of the brake band are connected to pins. One pin is anchored to the brake housing. The other end of the band connects to a pin/lever assembly that's operated by the brake pedal.
Drum removed. There's an oil seal on the differential shaft. The right seal is OK; the left seal is leaking a lot. I'll replace both.
Fortunately, the head of a 3/4" hex bolt fits that large hex nut. So I welded that bolt to a piece of steel bar 3/8" x 1" x 8" long to make a wrench. The cheater pipe made the job pretty easy. That large nut on the brake drum is 2-1/2" hex. You can find a socket that fits it, but the head of that nut is not very tall so that large socket might be difficult to keep on the nut when applying force. Anyway I saved $16 by using my homebrew tool.
The drums are both scored--right one is grooved. The drums are pretty thin so turning them may not be possible. We'll see.
There's some lining remaining on the left band; none on the right one
Next step--drain the tranny/differential/final drive and remove those oil seals.
The brakes are band type with the drums attached to shafts on the differential. The 60 has a final drive unit with bull gears. The differential and final drive unit are arranged in a horizontal configuration rather than vertically as in a Farmall Cub or Super A. Four hex bolts hold the covers on the brake units.
The bands contract and squeeze the drum when the brake pedal is depressed. The large hex nut holds the drum to the differential shaft. There's a large lock washer behind that nut with tabs that can be bent upward to keep the hex nut from loosenng.
The ends of the brake band are connected to pins. One pin is anchored to the brake housing. The other end of the band connects to a pin/lever assembly that's operated by the brake pedal.
Drum removed. There's an oil seal on the differential shaft. The right seal is OK; the left seal is leaking a lot. I'll replace both.
Fortunately, the head of a 3/4" hex bolt fits that large hex nut. So I welded that bolt to a piece of steel bar 3/8" x 1" x 8" long to make a wrench. The cheater pipe made the job pretty easy. That large nut on the brake drum is 2-1/2" hex. You can find a socket that fits it, but the head of that nut is not very tall so that large socket might be difficult to keep on the nut when applying force. Anyway I saved $16 by using my homebrew tool.
The drums are both scored--right one is grooved. The drums are pretty thin so turning them may not be possible. We'll see.
There's some lining remaining on the left band; none on the right one
Next step--drain the tranny/differential/final drive and remove those oil seals.