Your description of how yours "surges" under load sounds like a problem I had with a governed gas generator and that did turn out to be related to the governor. My eBay MH44 manual devotes 2 full pages [out of 56 total pages!] to the governor and it's operation/adjustment and cautions that unless something in the governor circuit needs replacement that adjustment is not generally needed.
The troubleshooting section lists "governor out of adjustment" only as a possible cause of "loss of power".
Have you checked your fuel system for any air leaks? That's generally been the culprit for me in my old Datsun pickups-a loose carb base screw, a leaky intake manifold gasket, a torn accelerator pump gasket, a loose/missing idle adjustment screw or spring, worn throttle shaft holes, and once the choke butterfly plate was loose on the shaft, allowing the plate to partially choke the engine randomly.
Thank you for clearing that up for me [the beams on the back of the tractor]. I may do something similar on mine if I can't cobble some sort of power steering onto it. I researched "electric power steering" a bit but dropping 1-2 grand on that just isn't in the cards.
I thought maybe it was just my 61 year-old arms that were pooping out on me-these 44's are HARD to steer at low speed, and turning the front wheels while stopped with ~ 500# of steel hanging on the front is downright work!
Mine has a homebuilt snow blade [built of 1/4" plate] 84" wide which raises and lowers via a hand-cranked boat winch mounted on a bracket welded to the LR fender. The builder used a very well thought out series of four single-sheave snatch blocks and 2 pulleys mounted on a FEL-like frame built of channel which supports the blade and which bolts to the both the tractor frame and the grille. I just replaced the cable on it and lubed all the frame pivots, pulleys, blocks and the winch on Friday, and it's surprising how much more easily it cranks up and down!
Since I'm waaaaay too cheap {and poor} to lay out $450- for a new set of chains for it I'm building a set from some good semi chains [$70] and a BIG pile of rusty/broken ones I picked up for $50. I'll have a like-new set on the front with ice-cleated crosslinks and the rears will be a diamond pattern to keep them from slipping between the tire bars, not that there's all that much tread left on 'em...[-:
Had a bad case of sticker shock when I priced an oil filter {#7290} for it at NAPA. They want $32.19 for ONE filter. In a post on another tractor forum dated 2010 the same item # was $10.50!!! The NAPA adapter base {#4755} to convert it to use spin-on filters was $15 in 2010, today it is $46.88. The spin-on filters {#1050} were $3.50, now $11.69.
Anyone know of a less-pricy source of filters besides NAPA? If not, I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy the base and spin-ons, I only have to do 2 oil changes to begin saving money over the cartridge type.
Speaking of which, how often do you guys change your oil and filter if you only use the tractor about 30 hrs yearly? I plan to mainly push snow/drag heavy rocks/skid a few trees.
I'm sure glad "inflation is under control" or I'd be REALLY "scrod"...@#$%in' politicians...
gifdoesn't matter if they're "red" or "blue", they're ALL members of the same criminal gang which is out to loot us...just like the Crips and the Bloods squabble until the cops [that's us] show up, then they band together and cover one another's behinds while trying to do in the good guys...END OF POLITICAL RANT-
