Just bought 2n, have some questions

   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #1  

SteveM

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2001
Messages
424
Location
Upstate NY
Tractor
Kubota B7100DT
I think I am wearing on the patience of the folks at a few of the other vintage tractor forum, so I thought I would throw one out here.

Bought 2n in nice looking, running (?) shape. Has basically one problem: after 20 minutes of running or so, i get into a stumble/ rough running mode. The first couple times I thought perhaps crud in the fuel, or a carb problem. But now that it has happend 3 nites in a row - I am thinking the coil gets hot and starts giving intermittent spark.

Questions:

1) Do you folks agree?
2) I am getting my manual in the mail any day now - but in the meantime, where is the coil exactly - I havent spent anytime on that side of the engine yet.
3) I found some 12v coils on the internet- anyone have a recommendation on where to purchase?

Once I get this fixed, there are a host of smaller things I want to repair/improve. But this is the biggie /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #2  
Could be the coil this does happen. Also the condenser can cause the same problems when it warms up.
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #3  
And plugs will sometimes do this also, and you might as well check the wires to.
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #4  
If yer talking about ytmag... naa.. we don't get tired.. some of our members are just gruff.

Ok, lets see... 2n.. that is a front mount coil, it is a square can, mounted onto the 4 nipple 'crab' looking distribuitor cap.

Rough running after a good start can be a few problems.

1, is a vacume on the fuel tank... next time it runs rough, remove the gas cap.. see if that helps... Sometimes 50 -60 years of trash plugs up the vent in the dome on the gas tank.

2, Might be condensor, but probably isn't.. as condensor usually provides 'burnt points' pretty fast.. though if you even halfway think that it -might- be a problem.. replace it.. they are ultra cheap.

3, There are many heat related problems with front mount coils. One thing you don't mention, is if you still are oem 6v positive ground, or if you have converted to a alternator and 12v negative ground.

If 12v, are you using a 12v coil? or a 6v coil?

If a 6v coil, you will need the 12v to 6v dropping resistor, AND the original ballast resistor fromt he back of the dash.

If it is a 12v coil, read the instructions with it.. some require no other resistance.. but some like about .5 ohms of current limiting to prolong coil life. If that is the case, go to radio shack and buy a 2 pack of ceramic power resistors, 1 ohm, 10-watt... twist them together side by side ( parallel ).. this gives you a .5 ohm 20 watt current limiting resistor.

Also, ignition switches are known to go bad especially the oem ones. when it runs rough, try jumpering around the switch with a piece of wire.. if that helps, the contacts are beginning to go.

All in all, keep the electrical connections clean bright and tight... and remember, the 6v systems need large 1/0 battery cables.. not the thinner 12v style automotive cables.

Other possibilities are a leak on the intake side somewhere. To check for this, when it starts to run rough, try a little choke ( this enriches the mixture.. and the leak tries to lean the mixture.. ) If this helps, you may have a manifold vacume leak at the carb halves, carb to manifold connection, or manifold to block. Some have suggested spraying some wd-40 right around the carb/manifold area when it starts to get rough.. if it evens out.. pretty much indicates a leak... uh.. be carefull spraying anything around a manifold... I know wd-40 is pressurized with CO2.. but still play it safe.

good luck

Hope this helps,

Soundguy
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #5  
Soundguy,
Good one on the 12 volt and dropping resistor thing. I did not think of that one.
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #6  
Over on the ytmag ford forum.. we see about 2-3 ignition problem questions a day. General consensus over the years has come up with the current limiter idea, and the various resistor combinations for the various coil combinations that often come up.. etc.

I love this old iron.. not matter what color it is ( or used to be ) /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Soundguy
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #7  
I love the old Iron, but don't have a ford. Mostly an IH man myself. I am a regular in the YTD main forum and the Farmall forum. I usually just hit the Ford forums to check on something for a friends tractor. Not Slowrev over there though.
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #8  
I'm just getting into IH myself. Picked up a 66 IH cub a couple months ago, and it is pretty spiffy. I've got it all pertied up and added a buggy style sun shade. Been cutting grass with it.. beats the pants off a riding lawnmower.

Am looking for an H or M next.. though the H's are real nice.

Also am on the look out for a JD.. perhaps a, b, or 40

There is a decent looking 40 down the road but doesn't run.. owners story keeps changing on when/where/why.. so I'm staying away...I keep telling him if he gets it to crank/run, I'll buy it.. but he just leaves it there and is trying to sell it non-running.. go figure..

Soundguy
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for your help. My FO-4 manual might arrive today, so that will help. The biggest challenge I have is that this 2n has been 'redone'. Ha! Really, I knew what I was getting in to -so I am not frustrated yet.

The black plastic heavy gizmo on top of the distributor is new - have the old one in a box of old parts. So if that is the coil, I have a new one. The alternator is a Delco-Remy and stamped in the case it says 12NEG - take that to mean 12v negative ground. The battery says 12024 on it; it is a cheap brand with a lousy label. Going around to the other side of the tractor, all the wiring is new and messy. From the key switch there is a small round component up under the dash. Moving forward there is a 'kodak film canister' - sized component that looks like a solenoid to me - the heavy cable from the battery runs into it, and the cable runs out of it to the adjactent starter. All this stuff is very new....lights work, starts instantly, etc. I Also put in new Autocraft plugs as recommended (the old ones were chalky white), and the plug wires are tight and decent.

Frankly, I feel like I am slipping backwards with each evening of tinkering (not surprising, depressing) When I bought it it ran smooth, no smoke, no coughing. But no throttle travel. Took the govenor apart, balls and races good - lubricated linkage, now I have more throttle movement. But that began the running with smoke condition; and 2 nites in a row - it would begin coughing and missing after 20 minutes.

Last nite I checked the fuel system for clogs; nothing found; fired up and it slightly misses right from the get-go.

I am really thinking of taking it to a mechanic or dealer for a professional go-through....any last minute ideas or things I could check? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / Just bought 2n, have some questions #10  
You didn't mention it, so I will ask what the one guy said. Did you check the condenser??? They do go bad, and will do that. I guess to check it you would have to go buy one, but they are dirt cheap. How does the points look? I tuned up a car one time, was going on a trip and got about 50 miles and it started to run like the timeing chain had sliped. I asked a garage and he and his man both said its the timeing chain. I towed it home, and checked the timeing chain, and it was good. I got to thinking and put the old condenser back in and it was still in it when I sold the car, and was running great. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
 
Top