rear lug nut torque

[Deere Dude]

No matter what torque I would use, and I might be all wet here and adding where I shouldn't add, but I would find out the correct torque and time intervals between torquing and follow the guidelines through a few heavy uses, keeping an eye on the lug-nuts. I heard new paint makes re-torquing a must.

After I would feel comfortable with them, I would take all the nuts or bolts off and put blue lok-tite on them and then re-torque them again. Once lok-tite is on they won't vibrate off.

On my 45 HP tractor I torqued for the first 10 hours or so and then I forgot to pay attention until I broke a valve stem off, then I noticed all the nuts were loose, enough to where I got all new lug-bolts. I lok-tited them and for the next 350 hours, never had a problem and I feel secure.

 

[JimRB]

I took that info right out of the owners manual. I don't agree with it, but I did take it from the owners' Manual. Here is the page:
View attachment 375564

and here is the front of the owners manual....See where it says CK25/CK27/CK30/CK35
View attachment 375565

The torque you are referring to is when you use the offset plates on the rear rims. The picture shows a variety of positions. By the way my JD manual shows 160 lb-ft for the offset bolts. My offset bolts and nuts are the same size as the lug bolts. What does the next page say about lug bolt torque or maybe somewhere else in the manual?

 

[ritcheyvs]

Well, this is one more data point where I'm not impressed with the accuracy of Kioti's US documentation.

Here is a scan from a 2007 CK service manual:


For comparison, the torques for my DK45 are 137 ft-lb front and 235 ft-lb rear, according to the owners' manual. By the way, I have two different editions of the owners manual for my tractor and there are several places where they disagree. Personally, I'd be inclined to err a little on the low side rather than risk snapping off a stud.

Supplemental: I just looked and saw you have a 2012 model, which must be an SE configuration. So the manual page I posted doesn't apply. Still, it must be more than 50 ft-lb.

 

[VictorW]

My 2004 CK30hst manual shows 66.5 ft/lbs for the fronts and 166.3 ft/lbs for the rear.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I just tighten by feel if using a lug wrench. When they feel tight, I stop. Never broke one or had one loosen off.
Now I just use my impact gun and tighten them snug then let it hammer for just a second watching the socket. When it quits turning, its tight. I have a 1/2" drive for the front wheels and a 3/4" drive one for the rear using max of 140 PSI air to drive it.

 

[chuck172]

I'm totally confused about the offset plates. What are they?
Have we come to any conclusion on the rear lug torque values?

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I'm totally confused about the offset plates. What are they?
Have we come to any conclusion on the rear lug torque values?

Question #2.....View attachment Section 01 Safety and General.pdf

 

[Looking4new]

The torque you are referring to is when you use the offset plates on the rear rims. The picture shows a variety of positions. By the way my JD manual shows 160 lb-ft for the offset bolts. My offset bolts and nuts are the same size as the lug bolts. What does the next page say about lug bolt torque or maybe somewhere else in the manual?

The next page is all about ballast.

EURIKA! I found it!

Under 'Periodic Service; REARS 166.3 lb/ft
FRONT 66.5 lb/ft

I will change it in the other part of my manual.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think 50 ft-lb is for the fronts. I believe the rears are supposed to be about 200 ft-lb. Look at your owners' manual. If you don't have one, get one.

50 ftlb has gotta be wrong; even for fronts. I go 80 on the front lugs of the BX1500.
larry

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

Don't you guys take this the wrong way, because I don't mind jumping in here to help someone out...but....For about the same cost as 2.5 gallons of fuel...you can own a repair/service manual. Then you won't have to wait a day or two for the correct answer to your questions to pop up......Hill Billy Bob