Diverter - Mounting

   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#31  
So the price difference per hose is $2, between 1/4" and 3/8" (with 3/8" being cheaper).
Just not sure if I should go with 1/4" or 3/8".
Leaning 3/8". It's a diverter, I can feather...

Am I wrong?
 
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   / Diverter - Mounting #32  
Yeah, you CAN feather - but if it's something you NEVER want to SLAM around, you may find that the "heat of battle" will over-ride -

Confused..... Where did the 1/2" get into discussion??!?

Also was that difference just HOSE size, or with JIC's crimped on the hoses instead of NPT?

My personal preference (for this application) if prices were that close, would be 1/4" hoses BUT with 3/8" JIC's on them.

The price difference I saw was when I wanted 1/4" hoses BUT with the more durable 3/8" fittings... Steve
 
   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#33  
1/2" was a typo. I fixed it.
It is with 3/8" JIC on one end and 1/2" JIC on the other end.

The 1/2" JIC end is so I can use a JIC-to-NPT bulkhead fitting. I'll mount using the bulkhead fittings and they will also adapt to 1/2" NPT for the QDs.
 
   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Thanks to MtnView for the valve (shipped Saturday (after making the post office happy about my address) and I got it Monday--via USPS--DANG).
Mocked it up and ordered hoses and fittings.
I snagged a hose off the grapple and used it for mockup.
Also got a pressure gauge to test my pressure.

Anyone have a procedure for adjusting the pressure limit on a LA724?
Anyone know the size fastener that goes on the hose standoffs on the FEL?
Anyone know if the control stick is hollow? How the knob is attached? I'd like a "hurst" style knob, with the wire running through the hollow tube (if it's hollow). I'll epoxy in my own switch if I have to. I don't want/like a big scorpion type handle.
 
   / Diverter - Mounting #35  
Anyone know if the control stick is hollow? How the knob is attached? I'd like a "hurst" style knob, with the wire running through the hollow tube (if it's hollow). I'll epoxy in my own switch if I have to. I don't want/like a big scorpion type handle.
You will have to take it apart and look. Mine was hollow and I made my own joystick button switch installation. You can read and see what I did in post #44 here............http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount-5.html
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Brandi, I read through your thread before, actually. Thanks.
Seems the knob is no longer around.

I haven't spent a bunch of time yet, but that knob is on there GOOD. Also need to measure it to see what threads might work.

A Hurst sidewinder seems to be about $65, with a bunch of thread adapters.
Or another place will make them for about $25 + $25 for a button. Or they'll use an actual pool ball (8 ball of course) for $13 + $25 for a button.
Finally, found some on ebay for like $35 shipped, but the wire does NOT appear to go down through the center of the shaft (doesn't matter if my shaft isn't hollow), but I doubt the thread will be compatible (without a bunch of PITA).
Oh, finally, finally, I found one that would probably strap onto the shaft, but the comfort level is about 0, I suspect.

Part of my hose order is on backorder, AND life is just too dang busy. Slow-motion project, at this point...
 
   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I do see, from the parts diagram, that I need an M8x1.25 to use the existing loader arm hose standoffs.
I also see that the loader control arm is hollow. Cool.
 
   / Diverter - Mounting #38  
Brandi, I read through your thread before, actually. Thanks.
Seems the knob is no longer around.

I haven't spent a bunch of time yet, but that knob is on there GOOD. Also need to measure it to see what threads might work.

A Hurst sidewinder seems to be about $65, with a bunch of thread adapters.
Or another place will make them for about $25 + $25 for a button. Or they'll use an actual pool ball (8 ball of course) for $13 + $25 for a button.
Finally, found some on ebay for like $35 shipped, but the wire does NOT appear to go down through the center of the shaft (doesn't matter if my shaft isn't hollow), but I doubt the thread will be compatible (without a bunch of PITA).
Oh, finally, finally, I found one that would probably strap onto the shaft, but the comfort level is about 0, I suspect.

Part of my hose order is on backorder, AND life is just too dang busy. Slow-motion project, at this point...
As I remember, there are lots of different styles, at the local O'Reilly auto supply, that would have worked. I used the biggest knob to make it easier. My wires poke out of the lower side of the knob and run down the joystick, held in place with ty-raps (or zip ties for you non aviation types). I too, saw all the knobs online in the over $50 range, including the 8 ball knob. But I was trying to keep the budget low to show others a diverter installation can be completely homemade. One thing I still want to do is wire a master on-off switch into the electrical circuit and mount it on my instrument panel. That way I won't pressurized the grapple circuit with nothing installed past the QDs. Over time and a fat thumb hitting the switch accidently, my QDs seep fluid.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Diverter - Mounting
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I did look online at O'Reilley, and found nothing.
I decided to make my own. Got an orange #5 billiard ball on Ebay for $6 shipped. Going to get a pack of 6 (supposedly) waterproof switches for $7 from Amazon. I have drills/taps.

I was concerned that the sidewinder (or equivalent) wouldn't be waterproof, since it's for *inside* the car. And the cost seems ridiculous. Of course, I like doing stuff myself, too. It's just a matter of finding the TIME.

The knob on the tractor now is about 1.7". The billiard ball is 2.25, so it'll be quite a bit bigger. But I also need room to mount the switch. Hopefully it is reasonably comfortable.

Like this:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/54-kubota/176587-custom-loader-joystick-knob.html

So yeah, we'll see.

When I put my lights in, I mounted 3 switches, but only needed 2 for the lights. I was going to use it for the aux power outlet I am also going to mount (why have it switched? beats me....). Based on your comment I think I'll use it for the diverter now instead. Thanks!
 
   / Diverter - Mounting #40  
I did look online at O'Reilley, and found nothing.
I decided to make my own. Got an orange #5 billiard ball on Ebay for $6 shipped. Going to get a pack of 6 (supposedly) waterproof switches for $7 from Amazon. I have drills/taps.

I was concerned that the sidewinder (or equivalent) wouldn't be waterproof, since it's for *inside* the car. And the cost seems ridiculous. Of course, I like doing stuff myself, too. It's just a matter of finding the TIME.

The knob on the tractor now is about 1.7". The billiard ball is 2.25, so it'll be quite a bit bigger. But I also need room to mount the switch. Hopefully it is reasonably comfortable.

Like this:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/54-kubota/176587-custom-loader-joystick-knob.html

So yeah, we'll see.

When I put my lights in, I mounted 3 switches, but only needed 2 for the lights. I was going to use it for the aux power outlet I am also going to mount (why have it switched? beats me....). Based on your comment I think I'll use it for the diverter now instead. Thanks!
You're welcome. I thought about the weather also. But no problems with weather affecting the switch operation, after 3 years of use. My problem is losing the switch's cap. So I just leave it off.

I wouldn't glue a nut into the #5 ball. I would tap the threads into the ball.
hugs, Brandi
 
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