Basalt Exhaust Wrap

   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #1  

TNGP

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
43
Location
Clarksville
Tractor
Kubota B7500
The heat from an under hood muffler, exhaust tube and headers is, well, hot. The heat radiates through everything near it and even cooks the hood to a point where you can't leave your hand on it. Thus I've decided to try that exhaust wrap you see on dragsters and other race cars. It costs $20 for a 2"x25ft roll and $11 for a pack of stainless steel zip-ties so what the heck.

I got to work and took off the header, muffler and exhaust tube. The exhaust tube and muffler are bolted together, so I tightened them up to keep their position and began the wrapping process. This process isn't difficult, but it's certainly time consuming. It took me about 3 hours to wrap everything and put it back together.

WOW was it worth it. The EGT has shot up, but it has made such a difference under the hood. At 2,000RPM with a heavy load, I can literally put my hand on the header/muffler/exhaust tube. Its not comfortable to leave my hand on it too long, but it certainly doesn't sizzle! I didn't wrap the flange, so I can feel what the actual heat coming out is (at the 2kRPM and a load it's untouchable and I'm sure we've all felt that sizzle before). Overall it's a very noticeable difference under the hood and well worth the $33 and 3 hours to do it. I'm now considering the same process with my other vehicles. I will 100% do this with any other tractor I ever have. I will put up pictures tomorrow when I get a chance.

The tractor is a Kubota B7500.
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #2  
What is EGT?
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Exhaust gas temp. I suppose it's more of an automotive term. In a diesel truck, if the EGT gets too high, you can cook off the oil flowing through the turbo, warp the turbo fins and metal parts/turbo housing/engine headers etc. Basically, the exhaust gasses are so hot they soften metal parts to the point of failure - but that is noticeable like glowing cherry red metal. I don't think that is a tractor problem - but please correct me if I'm wrong. I believe it is more of a race car problem and for towing heavy loads with a modified diesel truck.
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap
  • Thread Starter
#4  
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I got the Titanium color because it's the closest to OD I could find.
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #5  
Used this stuff all the time on turbocharged subarus, works great for keeping heat in and reducing heatsoak to engine. Did you soak the wrap before hand to make it easier to wrap?
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I did soak it. I cant say that it expanded it at all, but it did keep the fibers from going airborne easily. I've read it is supposed to shrink when dry, but that wasn't my experience. It just stayed exactly as I wrapped it. Does the brand you use shrink?
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #7  
Get rid of it as you will ruin the exhaust, particularly right at the pipe after the 4 bolt flange.

Mild steel can't take that heat, only 304 stainless (not 409) will take that kind of abuse.

I ruined a new set of headers in 3 weeks by wrapping them like you did. The metal will crystallize then crack.

Regards, Fred
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I was worried about that. I figued motorcycle engines get much hotter than a tractor and they live through it.

Was your header cast iron? I wonder if a stainless upgrade after the breal would help with power output?
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #9  
Would relocating the muffler be an option?
 
   / Basalt Exhaust Wrap #10  
I was worried about that. I figued motorcycle engines get much hotter than a tractor and they live through it.

Was your header cast iron? I wonder if a stainless upgrade after the breal would help with power output?

My headers were on a Chevy 350 in an old Volvo and they were mild steel junk.


The pipe next to the 4 bolt flange will get the most heat and since it supports the whole muffler you'll first notice it droop as it heat cycles after some hard running. The idea under the hood is that the rad fan pushes out the hot air through the duct work and side grills behind the rad.

Why not use something 304 stainless off a motorcycle and adapt to your tractor and try it. Remove your stock system and store away for when you trade it in down the road.

Your machine doesn't need much flow as it only turns 2600 or so RPM unlike any car or bike that turns much faster and harder.

I straight piped mine.

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Price your muffler from Kubota before you run it too long. 6A320-58400 $159.83 Well it's not too much money if you ruin it. Maybe unwrap just the short section above the 4 bolt flange.

Also if you buy the paint from the wrap company it is simply high heat header paint in flat black.

Regards and good luck, Fred
 
 
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