Ford 4610, Starter Stuck Engaged

[ovrszd]

Good to hear that the starter motor itself is good. Sounds like you might get by with a cleanup of the solenoid?? Hope so!!!!

I can see how much of a pain it is with the FEL on.....

 

[RickB]

I'm not sure what loader you have, but I've used the starter to raise loaders and backhoes off the ground for decades. Using discretion with cranking times, the method works well.

 

[ETpilot]

I'm not sure what loader you have, but I've used the starter to raise loaders and backhoes off the ground for decades. Using discretion with cranking times, the method works well.

Thanks. Will keep that technique in mind. Will check the raised loader
when I get the tractor running. Maybe take a picture for future reference.

 

[ETpilot]

Thought I'd update this thread. I removed the starter and did a bench check of the starter. It checked out good. A check of the wiring revealed a bad fusible link. So I had the starter bench checked by a motor repair company. The starter checked out good. I checked with Ford for the fusible link and they did not know what I was talking about. It didn't show in their database. So I ordered the link with O'Reilly Auto Parts, will pick up tomorrow.

So the problem was the switch or the wiring. I had a chance to troubleshoot today after a bad storm we had yesterday. This starting system and alternator is protected only by fusible link. The links are not shown in the wiring diagram. So I started testing power wires first and then looked at the switch. The switch has 4 positions with the 4th position being the start position. Rigging my test tool I found that the solenoid trigger would power up in position 3. Aha, so the starter stayed engaged. I had to remove a panel for access to the switch. I then saw the problem. A wire, part of the neutral safety switch, had worn and was making contact with a metal tube. This provided the ground that allowed the solenoid to stay engaged. So simple fix. Tests show system is working normal now. Should have it running tomorrow.

Only thing I can't figure out is why the starter stayed engaged when I turned the key to off. Will see how this fix works out. I use a neat tester that I make. It allows to test continuity, voltage and polarity. It uses a horn so I just test and listen for the horn. Works great when working solo.

Thought I'd include pictures of my local airport. Storm damaged hangar but surprisingly aircraft not damaged. It took a while before they let us into the airport to check our things. It was an interesting stormy day.

 

[Texasmark]

If no visible external reason for still starting when in OFF and your trying it once and it shut off and again and it locked up again smells like internal shorts in the switch...since you now know the solenoid is ok. Over time the metallic parts make a path across the contacts and after enough metal is deposited, and enough moisture and crud you have a short where you don't want one. Fix would be a new switch.....usually pricy.

 

[RickB]

A new key switch is pretty cheap when compared to burning a tractor or a tractor and a barn to the ground. Off the top of my head I think I sell OEM key switches for +-$40.

Remove a battery cable when the tractor is unattended until you get this sorted out.

 

[ETpilot]

Fixing the electrical fault that I pictured has fixed the problem. Tested the system many times and all is normal again. I need to study the wiring diagram to see how this happened. I still am cautious about the switch. As I use the tractor I listen and monitor the instrument panel to see if all is still good. I'm looking for a battery disconnect switch so I can deactivate the electrical system if needed. The switch may possibly be a problem but testing the system and now using the tractor has not resulted in another fault. I will just monitor it for now.

RickB I raised the loader to see what access I have to the engine. It would not work for replacing the starter. The lift cylinder is in the way plus 4 hydraulic hoses hang in front of the starter. A good suggestion just did not work for me. I took a picture with loader raised to have as a future reference.

Thanks all for the replies and suggestions.

 

[Texasmark]

O'Reiley's and HF sell them, about $6 bucks.

 

[RickB]

O'Reiley's and HF sell them, about $6 bucks.

And yet you complain that they are pricey? Really?

I'll bet for $6 they don't plug and play like the OEM switch. But whatever.

 

[ETpilot]

Well I used the tractor all day today. No fault of any kind. Just to be safe I am going to do an airplane mod to it. Starter contractors, solenoid, on airplanes tend to stick too. So an indicator light is wired in the system. You just monitor the light during start up. I am going to do the same for the tractor. Just a start up indicator. The battery cut off switch will be the master switch to shut the system down if there is any fault. Should work fine. This tractor did not have a parking brake indicator light. I added a flashing light to let me know the parking brake is set. So I will make a 2 light indicator panel and add it to the tractor. Should have it completed next week.

Here is the access you have to the stater once the FEL is removed. Much better working space.