Hi All,
First post here and thought I would seek some advice for a first time 110TLB owner ..
2007 vintage with about 1200 hrs. Will be used in varying roles to service my 40+ acre lot. Machine is optioned with a Laurin cab (with heat and AC), front hydraulics, 7th function valve on the backhoe and no rear remotes. The machine spent most of its life split between construction work (trenching - backhoe) and farming (stall cleaning - loader). I don't believe maintenance was well kept as both the loader and hoe are loose. Pins and bushings on the front loader showed a serious lack of care and attention. Other than that all else works and functions as normal. And yes ... all the bolts around the loader tower and supports are tight. I also purchased the technical manuals to help guide me along. The cab has quite a bit of surface rust on it that I also plan to address.
So far ..
I've purchased a complete set of maintenance parts to baseline the unit.
I purchased an NOS top n tilt kit (found on the shelf at a dealer)
I purchased an NOS drawbar hitch (found on Craigslist)
I also found a 110 TLB that was being parted out that had rear remotes - so I bought what I could from the carcass (including a pristine and complete diverter) and purchased the balance of parts to install on my machine.
I have a WR Long HD 4n1 skid steer bucket that I plan to use (heavy ay over 800 pounds!!)
Plan forward ...
Remove cab - send to paint shop - (actually I've already completely dismantled the cab - trust me ... allot of work!)
Remove operator platform and console to clean dirt, grime and years of manure handling!! Not pretty. This will also give me the required access for the rear remote install
Install rear remote system
Change all lubricants
Inspect and lubricate all linkages
Test hydraulics
Reassemble platform and console
Apply paint touch-up to front end of the machine - manure handling must be corrosive as the front end of the machine has allot of paint damage - both the front grill an the oil cooler don't have any paint left on them!
Re-install cab and commission HVAC system.
One thing I did notice while I was under the machine is that there appears to be oil leaking from inside the tunnel where the hydro unit lives. Its not dripping but it is wet. It could either the engine rear seal or the main seal on the hydro unit - anyone have any experience on this? If I need to split the tractor I think now would be the time to do it ...
Also ... when I do the loader pin replacement, I am thinking of removing the two loader towers to get them painted. I'm just wondering if this is a straight-forward process or if there is an alignment procedure involved to re-install them?
With respect to the rear remote installation ... I had to purchase a new bracket to mount the couplers on the left rear subframe. The plate is a superseded part number but will bolt up without issue. However, the couplers use a retaining ring to mount to the plate but the plate isn't thick enough to take up the room between the step in the coupler and the retaining ring - meaning a very sloppy fit. Just wondering if this is normal and the tubes add rigidity. Or perhaps the original plate was thicker or used washers to take of the clearance. A picture is attached ...
Any comments would be welcome ... thanks.
J
First post here and thought I would seek some advice for a first time 110TLB owner ..
2007 vintage with about 1200 hrs. Will be used in varying roles to service my 40+ acre lot. Machine is optioned with a Laurin cab (with heat and AC), front hydraulics, 7th function valve on the backhoe and no rear remotes. The machine spent most of its life split between construction work (trenching - backhoe) and farming (stall cleaning - loader). I don't believe maintenance was well kept as both the loader and hoe are loose. Pins and bushings on the front loader showed a serious lack of care and attention. Other than that all else works and functions as normal. And yes ... all the bolts around the loader tower and supports are tight. I also purchased the technical manuals to help guide me along. The cab has quite a bit of surface rust on it that I also plan to address.
So far ..
I've purchased a complete set of maintenance parts to baseline the unit.
I purchased an NOS top n tilt kit (found on the shelf at a dealer)
I purchased an NOS drawbar hitch (found on Craigslist)
I also found a 110 TLB that was being parted out that had rear remotes - so I bought what I could from the carcass (including a pristine and complete diverter) and purchased the balance of parts to install on my machine.
I have a WR Long HD 4n1 skid steer bucket that I plan to use (heavy ay over 800 pounds!!)
Plan forward ...
Remove cab - send to paint shop - (actually I've already completely dismantled the cab - trust me ... allot of work!)
Remove operator platform and console to clean dirt, grime and years of manure handling!! Not pretty. This will also give me the required access for the rear remote install
Install rear remote system
Change all lubricants
Inspect and lubricate all linkages
Test hydraulics
Reassemble platform and console
Apply paint touch-up to front end of the machine - manure handling must be corrosive as the front end of the machine has allot of paint damage - both the front grill an the oil cooler don't have any paint left on them!
Re-install cab and commission HVAC system.
One thing I did notice while I was under the machine is that there appears to be oil leaking from inside the tunnel where the hydro unit lives. Its not dripping but it is wet. It could either the engine rear seal or the main seal on the hydro unit - anyone have any experience on this? If I need to split the tractor I think now would be the time to do it ...
Also ... when I do the loader pin replacement, I am thinking of removing the two loader towers to get them painted. I'm just wondering if this is a straight-forward process or if there is an alignment procedure involved to re-install them?
With respect to the rear remote installation ... I had to purchase a new bracket to mount the couplers on the left rear subframe. The plate is a superseded part number but will bolt up without issue. However, the couplers use a retaining ring to mount to the plate but the plate isn't thick enough to take up the room between the step in the coupler and the retaining ring - meaning a very sloppy fit. Just wondering if this is normal and the tubes add rigidity. Or perhaps the original plate was thicker or used washers to take of the clearance. A picture is attached ...
Any comments would be welcome ... thanks.
J
