Hinomoto E324 clutch

i think my clutch went bad. Was out in the woods and now it won't shift into gear. It won't grind gears, just nothing.

Does anyone have a parts list for this tractor scanned, where to get a new assembly, or where is a good place to get one rebuilt? Just looking for options. I did find parts here:

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Mas..._Parts_s/6.htm

But don't know if the E324 needs the clutch for the MF1035 or MF1040. They sound like a break point in the engine applied. i expect it is probably the MF1035 but... not sure.

I uploaded a bunch of photos that may give some info on this tractor here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/ken.mayle/HinomotoE324#

They were uploaded are extremely high resolution (google has a zoom function) and most numbers can be read off the tags. If there are questions on what a number is, let me know and I'll figure it out.

does the loader need to come off in order to do the clutch? my thoughts are yes.

It appears the loader will have to come off. to replace the clutch, the tractor has to literally be split (separated) at the bell housing. Engine half pulled forward, transmission half pulled back.

Was the clutch slipping prior to this happening ( did you notice you required that you needed to use lower and lower gears for it to pull itself for instance)? Does the pedal feel normal when you push down on it? I assume the tractor is in neutral (?), can you rock the tractor back and forth a little and get it to engage a gear? Or if it's in gear rock it and get it out of gear?

Just trying to get a better idea of what was going on leading up to the problem and if it may be something else.

TractorClutchesRUs - Tractor Clutches has served me well for clutches in the past and I believe they can reline your old one if they don't carry a replacement in stock. I'm sure they can supply a pilot and throw out bearing as well ( you may have to take the old ones out and measure them first though.).

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Originally Posted by Kernopelli

It appears the loader will have to come off. to replace the clutch, the tractor has to literally be split (separated) at the bell housing. Engine half pulled forward, transmission half pulled back.

Was the clutch slipping prior to this happening ( did you notice you required that you needed to use lower and lower gears for it to pull itself for instance)? Does the pedal feel normal when you push down on it? I assume the tractor is in neutral (?), can you rock the tractor back and forth a little and get it to engage a gear? Or if it's in gear rock it and get it out of gear?

Just trying to get a better idea of what was going on leading up to the problem and if it may be something else.

TractorClutchesRUs - Tractor Clutches has served me well for clutches in the past and I believe they can reline your old one if they don't carry a replacement in stock. I'm sure they can supply a pilot and throw out bearing as well ( you may have to take the old ones out and measure them first though.).

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I spoke to my dad on the issue, he didn't mention anything about the loader but said essentially the same thing you did. He's smart about this stuff.

I thought the clutch felt good when i bought it. However, I could have been in error. the clutch engaged high on the pedal but maybe that is just something with how the pedal was adjusted.

I didn't notice needing to use lower gears. In fact, it was humming along in high and the highest gear. I'm betting this dumbass guy i told not to use it did something stupid.

I made this video a minute ago to see if you have any ideas. Essentially my dad asked if it'd creep if started without neutral safety. I'm not sure if the clutch adjustment is all the way adjusted or has some left in it. It could be damaged anyway from being left running with the clutch out though.

YouTube - Hinimoto E324 Clutch Diagnosis

Wow, you certainly make it easy to get a good idea of what's going on...I like it:thumbsup:! Well, the tractor will barely pull itself under power...a sure sign of the clutch slipping. If the clutch was disengaging high in the pedal, I'm going to guess that the correct amount of free play wasn't adjusted in and could have been the cause or at least lends itself to it. Now I just got out of bed from the only sleep ( 3 hrs) I've had in the last 48hrs so I might be thinking a little backwards right now but the current adjustment is all the way in on the rod, which would explain for the immediate action in the pedal. Try letting some adjustment OUT on the rod and see if the clutch will engage. I'm thinking if the clutch pads are worn some, this will allow the plate to get closer to the flywheel.....right?:confused2: Man, this is simple, but I'm really that tired right now. Look at it and see if I'm thinking right, If I'm backwards, take the nut off the rod to give yourself a little more adjustment IN on the rod and try that.

I ran into the same problem with mine. It just stopped going. It turned out to be a mouse nest that got sucked into the pressure plate so it wouldn't let it grab. Split the tractor, cleaned it all out and is like new again.

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Originally Posted by racerboy832

I ran into the same problem with mine. It just stopped going. It turned out to be a mouse nest that got sucked into the pressure plate so it wouldn't let it grab. Split the tractor, cleaned it all out and is like new again.

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is there an inspection hatch on these? i couldn't really find anything.

for some reason i doubt it's the problem but you never know.

Any directions out there for splitting these? I've never split a tractor. I don't think it'll be too much of a problem but would like to make sure i disconnect things in the right order.

Does a clutch alignment tool help?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kernopelli

Wow, you certainly make it easy to get a good idea of what's going on...I like it:thumbsup:! Well, the tractor will barely pull itself under power...a sure sign of the clutch slipping. If the clutch was disengaging high in the pedal, I'm going to guess that the correct amount of free play wasn't adjusted in and could have been the cause or at least lends itself to it. Now I just got out of bed from the only sleep ( 3 hrs) I've had in the last 48hrs so I might be thinking a little backwards right now but the current adjustment is all the way in on the rod, which would explain for the immediate action in the pedal. Try letting some adjustment OUT on the rod and see if the clutch will engage. I'm thinking if the clutch pads are worn some, this will allow the plate to get closer to the flywheel.....right?:confused2: Man, this is simple, but I'm really that tired right now. Look at it and see if I'm thinking right, If I'm backwards, take the nut off the rod to give yourself a little more adjustment IN on the rod and try that.

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i tried adjusting it quite a bit in and nothing. I'll probably try "all the way" to see best or worst case clearance/engagement.

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Originally Posted by iloveketchup

is there an inspection hatch on these? i couldn't really find anything.

Any directions out there for splitting these? I've never split a tractor. I don't think it'll be too much of a problem but would like to make sure i disconnect things in the right order.

Does a clutch alignment tool help?

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I have no idea if the 324 has any type of inspection hole ( some tractors do) but if you can't find anything obvious, it probably doesn't.....what you may be able to do though is take the starter off and gain some access to the clutch through the opening that will produce.



They all basically split the same way and there are quite a few threads on TBN/internet describing the process. A search on the subject will bring them up and here is a link to the basics of how it's done Yanmar Tractor Clutch Replacement . An alignment tool helps greatly at times....I've always just made my own but a cheap (but nice) one is only about $15-20 at Harbor Freight or any auto parts store.

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Originally Posted by iloveketchup

i tried adjusting it quite a bit in and nothing. I'll probably try "all the way" to see best or worst case clearance/engagement.

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In the video you can see that the fork had previously been about half way on the rod threads for some time and was "tightened" recently. I'll bet the previous owner had done some adjusting ( which is why the pedal didn't have any free play) plus adjusting in that direction can pull the clutch plate away from the flywheel. You're right though, try adjusting "all the way"...... in both directions if need be and see what you get. All of this may just get you to a temporary fix and you'll have to replace the clutch soon anyway but if you have to split the tractor it's not an overwhelming task for someone with some mechanical ability. One or two guys can do it on a Saturday no problem or at worst it's a weekend project for you and should just require basic tools.

the saga continues....

i got it to the point where i can almost pull it apart.

However....

I'm not quite sure how the 4WD mechanism pulls apart. I loosened the back and wondered what else i need to do.

Photos:

https://picasaweb.google.com/ken.mayle/HinomotoE324#

Your set up is different than the ones I have done but I suspect all you will have to do is take the bolts out of the tube housing and when the tractor halves are rolled apart there will be a a yoke that simply slides off a splined shaft end. I tried looking at some parts diagrams on AGCO's website but it appears they have made some recent changes and I can't get the diagram pics to load. The Parts lists describes a 19 spline yoke on several models though so you might have that too based on MF models. This link describing how to do it to a E204 sounds like a very similar setup to yours based upon how the e204's tube housing bolts were configured..... so i would say that after the bolts are taken out the halves should be able to be rolled apart and the shaft dropped. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/g...moto-e204.html