Sickle Mower Problems

   / Sickle Mower Problems #1  

rmcdiffett

New member
Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Messages
1
Location
Newton, Kansas
Tractor
150 Massey Fergenson
I have an older McCormick Deering probably early 50 or late 40s. The thing mechanically operates ok. Problem is the bar is not cutting. I have replace the guards and sharpen the sickle but grass/alfalfa doesn't seem to cut clean. It also want to hang up on the bar. I am thinking it may be in the guard adjustment. I am looking for suggestions. This is a mower that attaches to the drawbar and has a single crazy wheel in the back.

Thanks Rich
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #2  
good luck ..but i think it has a lot to do with the guides
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #3  
Sickle bar mowers are all basically the same when it comes to cutting. if you know the guards and sickle sections are in good condition - which they should be as you replaced them - then here are the next items.
1) Is the sickle laying down on the guards in the cutting section? the sickle should have virtually no gap in the cutting area.
2) is the back of the sickle held properly to keep the sickle flat on the guards? There should be wear plates every so often on which the back edge of the sickle section rides to keep the sickle lying flat on the guards.
3) Does the sickle move smoothly in the cutter bar? If not you may need to look at guard alignment, wear plate adjustment, sickle toe clip adjustment, etc.
4) Does the sickle run cool when you run it without cutting? If it gets hot it is too tight.
5) Are the toe clips on the sickle without being too tight? If the clips do not hold the sickle on the guards the grass may cause the sickle to rise off the guards and create a poor cutting condition.
6) What is the lead of the mower? The outer end should be 1-2' ahead of the Inner end.
7) What is the fore/aft tilt? The cutter bar should be basically level to maybe a little nose up. Level is the best.

If you check all of these and are still having issues, there is something strange going on!

good luck!
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #4  
When you get the hay hanging up on the bar that is a sign that the angle is not right. They should have a slight upward angle to help lay the hay flat and be able to ride over obsticals in the field. Good luck.
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #5  
your issues sound a bit like mine when I started up a 50's sickle mower that I love. Mine is a IH McCormik Series 28 from 1957. And It took some fuss'n over to get "just right" the steps from Creamer are really where to start. If you find it really is an IH/McC 28 or similar. I'll send you my Manual. Many of the adjustments could be similar. If you are trying to cut "too deep" into the grass w/a bad angle - It will drive down into the crass , clog, and just bunch up. Are you able to cut 20ft? 100ft? before this happens? or almost instantly? you'll get it. I can suggest a place for the older manuals as well. See IH Implement Manuals
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #6  
I had a lot of problems with my old IH mower (don't know the model). I found the clearance between the cutter teeth and the ledger plates was totally out of adjustment. The clips that keep the bar and cutter teeth held forward ( I don't know the name of them) were worn and the bar was riding too far back and the grass was packing up under the teeth. I loosened the toe caps and slid them as far forward as they could go and retightened everything. I did adjust the toe caps so they held the teeth tighter to the ledger plates too. For this adjustment I used a 16 oz. adjuster (hammer). I loosened the toe caps, put a piece of round stock under the arch and struck them a few times to move them and retightened them. Then I took a good look and those that looked too tight I struck in the middle of the arch to back the pressure off. Finally I found that a number of the rock guards looked like they were totally on the wrong angle. I used a 2 pound adjuster on them. A good number of years as a carpenter helped with accurate swings. I struck them from the underside a few times till the clearance looked to be around 10 thousands of an inch or less. There is some risk of breaking the rock guards off as they are cast, but by doing it with gentler blows I moved all the errant ones but for one, it broke. I picked up a new one from Tractor Supply, installed it and went mowing again with TOTAL success. This process took a while but was totally worth it. One other thing I did do was check and repean a number of the questionable rivits, especially those on the pitman end. Loose rivits are death to those parts and they do seem to loosen with time. Now I can mow just about anything I want with no clogging. I hope this helps. I'm no mechanic and had to learn by trial and error. These methods I used may not be correct, or conventional, but I have had success. This process took lots of patience and time, and I share it with you to tell you how I got there.
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #7  
Countryguy1225, I'd like to borrow that manual for a bit to have a look at it and see if there's anything I could have, should have done differently if you don't mind being as how we're just about neighbors.
 
   / Sickle Mower Problems #8  
Countryguy1225, I'd like to borrow that manual for a bit to have a look at it and see if there's anything I could have, should have done differently if you don't mind being as how we're just about neighbors.

Hi. Happy to send that to you! Did you also see the link I sent if the model is way off? Mine is a ih 3pt pto type mount. I will figure out how to email you on this site. Oohhhh crud. I only have a print copy. I will scan at work tomorrow and send that along ASAP. ! Burton mi. Yep. Cool!
 
 
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