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  1. #11
    Super Member Tx Jim's Avatar
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    Jan 2007
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    5,171
    Location
    North Texas
    Tractor
    JD 4255/Kubota M7040 HDC

    Default Re: How to hand test a NH268 knotter

    Quote Originally Posted by Verticaltrx View Post
    I would assume our JD 337 baler has a similar function, but I haven't had to deal with it.
    Yes all JD sq balers have a plunger head safety stop. It is very important that sq baler operators check for proper operation of the PH safety stop to protect high $$$$$ needles from breakage. I've seen missing/broken springs and binding of mechanisms on PH stops in my hay baling experiences.

  2. #12
    Super Member Tx Jim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    5,171
    Location
    North Texas
    Tractor
    JD 4255/Kubota M7040 HDC

    Default Re: How to hand test a NH268 knotter

    Quote Originally Posted by zzvyb6 View Post
    As for position of the plunger when the knotter trips, on my baler, the plunger is well on its way out of the compaction area when the needles raise. Some people think that the needles ought to help push the final flake at the bale being formed, but it ain't supposed to be.
    I've worked on both JD & NH sq balers. On each brand the needle to PH timing is similar. Needles aren't designed to help form bales but take twine/wire to knotter system. If the PH on your baler is "well on it's way away from compression stroke" then I think your baler is timed incorrectly. If timed as you describe this puts undue pressure on the twine/wire as knot is trying to be formed. That may not affect tying on light bales but will on 60-70# bales. I just stating from my experience of many years of repairing sq balers.

  3. #13
    Elite Member JasG's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
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    3,204
    Location
    CNY
    Tractor
    Kubota L3240

    Default Re: How to hand test a NH268 knotter

    Quote Originally Posted by Tx Jim View Post
    I've worked on both JD & NH sq balers. On each brand the needle to PH timing is similar. Needles aren't designed to help form bales but take twine/wire to knotter system. If the PH on your baler is "well on it's way away from compression stroke" then I think your baler is timed incorrectly. If timed as you describe this puts undue pressure on the twine/wire as knot is trying to be formed. That may not affect tying on light bales but will on 60-70# bales. I just stating from my experience of many years of repairing sq balers.
    You are corrent the needles should be just coming up into the chamber with the plunger still coming forward (compressing the hay) almost to the needles. As the needles rise they go through slots in the plunger face that allows them to be in the chamber and the plunger holding the hay. As the needles pull back so does the plunger (towards the tractor). Any sooner on the needles and they come up through the hay being compressed. Any later and the hay in the chamber will press against the needles, giving at least knotter issues, at worst broken needles.

    I've never seen one but I have been told some of the early Deere 336 baler manuals either were poorly written or wrong. People would end up setting the needles with the plunger going backwards (towards the tractor) when it should be with the needles just entering the chamber and the plunger going forward (towards the back of the baler) and compressing the hay. I've fixed more than one 336 that a person timed wrong.
    Last edited by JasG; 10-27-2012 at 09:22 AM.
    “Government is like a baby. An alimentary canal with a big appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other."


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  4. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    46
    Location
    Fenton, Mi
    Tractor
    Kubota L2550GST(4wd), Mitsubhish MT160D (4wd)

    Default Re: How to hand test a NH268 knotter

    Thank you everyone! This has been an adventure and a bit of a new phase in my life. I love the tinkering! And to see the equipment from 1967 come to life under my hands is pretty darn cool! The sickle mower I own is from 1957. Wow.
    This stuff is built to last! The knotters need a few parts but I will get back to those over winter. The plunger timing is next as it does seem advanced forward when then needle pops thru.

    The skins on this are in amazing shape. Almost zero dings and dents. I have this urge to go get this thing painted up locally and make it pretty again.
    Someone tell me I am nuts here. Lol.

    Love the forum and thanks to everyone. If someone needs the baler manuals in PDF form. Contact me here. Well figure out how to get them over to you via a few large email sites.

    Thanks and have a great week.

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